Community Forums

Rusty Bear · 05-17-2005, 09:21 PM

I have a 1999 36' Alpine with a generator that will not start unless the motor is running, then it starts just fine. When I try to start in from the house batteries it clicks like the batteries are low. This problem started a few weeks ago and I thought the batteries had gone bad so I replaced all the batteries in the coach. The problem still exists.

Tonight I took the battery cables off the generator and ground side, cleaned everything and checked the cables for damage and refastened all the cables. I put a volt meter on the +terminal and on the frame and I got a 12.55 Volts. When I tried to start the generator it still clicks as if it doesn't have enough power to start the generator. It will occasionally start, but when I shut it down it goes back to clicking most of the time.

I am going to check the solenoid fuse and the others in the generator next. The trouble shooting guide in my manual says if the generator cranks slowly, check the fuses. I think if the fuse was out it would not start at all.

If anyone has any ideas, I would like to hear them.

Jim

Rusty Bear · 05-17-2005, 09:21 PM

I have a 1999 36' Alpine with a generator that will not start unless the motor is running, then it starts just fine. When I try to start in from the house batteries it clicks like the batteries are low. This problem started a few weeks ago and I thought the batteries had gone bad so I replaced all the batteries in the coach. The problem still exists.

Tonight I took the battery cables off the generator and ground side, cleaned everything and checked the cables for damage and refastened all the cables. I put a volt meter on the +terminal and on the frame and I got a 12.55 Volts. When I tried to start the generator it still clicks as if it doesn't have enough power to start the generator. It will occasionally start, but when I shut it down it goes back to clicking most of the time.

I am going to check the solenoid fuse and the others in the generator next. The trouble shooting guide in my manual says if the generator cranks slowly, check the fuses. I think if the fuse was out it would not start at all.

If anyone has any ideas, I would like to hear them.

Jim

troth · 05-18-2005, 01:51 AM

Jim, it sounds like you may have "voltage", but not "amperage". When you've got the coach engine running, somehow there's enough amperage supplied to crank the genny, right?
Is it possible that your engine battery is not up-to-snuff, at least enough to provide the amps needed all the way back to the generator? I think your genny gets it's power from the engine battery, not your house batteries. One way you could test this would be to have coach engine off, then hold down the "dual" or "boost" switch on the dash and try starting the genny. If the genny cranks, you've provided extra amps from the two new house batteries into the engine battery circuit. -Just my 2 cents...

DR Dave · 05-18-2005, 04:51 AM

WE HAVE A 2000 ALPINE AND I HAVE WORKED ON A FEW OTHERS. I JUST DID A BATTERY CONECTION JOB ON A 2000 ALPINE FOR A MAN WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. WE DID THE SAME AS YOU. AFTER CHECKING EVERYTHING TOOK IT TO ONAN THEY FOUND IT TO BE BRAIN DEAD' THEY HAD TO REMOVE THE GENERATOR TO REPLACE IT. I SURE HOPE THIS IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM.THERE IS A CKT.BREAKER IN THE BATTERY COMP. CHECK TO MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTIONS ARE GOOD ON THE POS. BATTERY POST.I MEAN BETWEEN LUGS.THERE ARE TO MANY ON IT. THIS HAS BEEN A BIG PROBLEM FOR ALPINES.

EngineerMike · 05-18-2005, 06:53 AM

My bet is a bad solenoid. When they start to go out, an additional volt or so will be enough to get a going-bad solenoid to jump, but that too will disappear after a while. Main engine running should put 1 more volt or so into the current available for gen starting. Try jumping around the solenoid w/engine off & see if that starts gen (use some fat wire & magnum size clips or a BIG screwdriver pair for jumping, and avoid welding the screwdriver to a frame member & starting a fire; alternatively you could temporarily substitute a new solenoid).

SteveS · 05-18-2005, 10:50 AM

I agree with Troth. It is a poor connection someplace, whether in the solonoid, B+ or ground path. Since it cranks with the engine running, you can eliminate a lot of the circuitry but you need to make sure all connections are good. I have been fooled before by checking for tight battery cables and assuming because they were tight the connection was good...wrong. Don't make that assumption. Clean every connection. Also, as was mentioned, bypass the solonoid if you can. That will tell you if the internal solonoid connection is bad.

Wil Rathke · 05-21-2005, 04:22 PM

I had a '99 36 FDS and the generator cranked slowely and also the HWH pump motor ran slow. I finally found a bad house battery ground connection to the frame in the battery compartment. It had a 2 volt drop between the battery ground and the frame. I removed the ground bolt, removed all paint, and installed a new brass plated bolt with washers that will cut into the frame metal. End of problem.

Rusty Bear · 05-23-2005, 06:39 PM

I finally got to the bottom of my problem with the help of Dewayne at WRV. The problem was exactly as Wil described in his post. I did find out, that in my coach the generator and jack pump runs off the house batteries and the HWH key pad runs off the chassis battery.

In 2000 WRV started wiring the generator to the chassis battery.

All is well with my coach again.

Jim