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Old 06-08-2010, 10:17 AM   #15
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Sorry for the obvious questions but sometimes in the "heat of battle" the obvious gets overlooked. First, do any of the other slides or the jacks work--if so, its not the pump motor. If nothing works, it could be the pump [grounding issues in 2003s], one or more of the relays, or something wrong with the motherboard [located on the firewall directly behind the slide out tray in the dash/cockpit [access it from the removeable panels in front of the passenger seat.]
Second question--do you have the ignition key in accessory or run position to activate gen slide?[sorry for obvious].

Right now, it sounds like we are chasing ourselves--you need to do a process of elimination to isolate the problem. If its a bad ground on the motor, you can take the motor off the pump [two long bolts] and disassemble the motor to check the brushes [careful, the 12v cables are hot unless you shut-off chassis/house bats]. If its the relays, you can construct a crude bypass [see above] to get you home. If its the motherboard, atleast on the 2003 there are some blade fuses to check on the right side of board but you soon get into requiring an EE degree to diagnose beyond the fuses [see other HWH posts].

I cant comment on "pin configurations"--not sure HWH used the same wiring on 2003s as 2005s--think not. If you like, PM me and we can chat-- 2003 to 2003 owner.
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:36 AM   #16
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Other locations for the motherboard are behind the small flap w/751 key behind PS front tire, or amidships in the basement (found one there in an 03-ish mid door) ahead of the stair well where its a p.i.t.a. to get to.

Scout brings up a good point w/your new info. This could be a bad switch in the console, or bad wiring connections behind (below) the switch. The Main Slide switch is the same switch w/different wording. If you are getting interested enough and willing to have some fun, you could first check the wiring connections, & if no help then switch the switches and see if that fixes it. There have been many cases of the wire loom to the console stuff coming undone thru constant flexing over the years. All this assumes other slides work which means its not the pump.

On a somewhat related note to hotwiring, I haven't fully investigated the claim yet (have partially but have one more fairly cumbersome experiment left to do) that the operation of SmartBeds is fully independent from the HWH motherboard. The switches come w/pump & solenoid wires which if run direct would obviate the board. I was told when SB's came along that WRV wanted the bed actuation to be independent of HWH controls in case of problems (kinda like why the Apexes have dual pumps). I have partially unplugged the board & SBs still run normally. Has anybody taken the board fully off line & checked SB actuation?
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:31 PM   #17
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Here's answers to Old Scout's questions and what we've done thus far to troubleshoot the problem ...

"First, do any of the other slides or the jacks work--if so, its not the pump motor." We are unable to lower any of the jacks manually and we're afraid to use the automatic leveling because they might go down and not come back up.

Second question--do you have the ignition key in accessory or run position to activate gen slide?[sorry for obvious]. Yes, we've used the key in the accessory position, in the ignition position, and with the engine running.

We checked the 250W Mega fuse and the house on/off switcch with a voltmeter and found a solid 12V. If your press the Generator slide Extend or Retract button, or any jack up/down button, the solenoids on the pump "click". We used a voltmeter to verify that the large red cables read 12V each time you push one of the buttons previously mentioned. We then suspected that the pump motor was bad. However, I can not 100% verify that we checed the specific cable feeding the pump from a solenoid.

I'm also starting to wonder if moving the MH is causing the ground issue to temporarily make contact until I push a button.

I'm trying to get the local service vendor to work on it ASAP. I'll find out more tomrrow. If they can't work on it I may have the dealer in Longmont diagnose it and repair it while it's their getting the front air conditioner repaired next week.

I APPRECIATE all the information!!!
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcbowers View Post
I'm trying to get the local service vendor to work on it ASAP. I'll find out more tomrrow. If they can't work on it I may have the dealer in Longmont diagnose it and repair it while it's their getting the front air conditioner repaired next week.

I APPRECIATE all the information!!!
bcbowers...

Are you talking about "Longmont, CO""?

If so I am just up the road a couple miles!

I sure hope you are not talking about "CW"in longmont. or "RVA" in Berthoud....if so PM me before you go there...I have a couple of experiences to share...
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:56 AM   #19
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Reallly easy to check if motor is getting 12v by having a willing accomplice hit a switch that would extend a jack, and reading the voltage on the pump's large cable stud.
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Old 06-10-2010, 07:00 PM   #20
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I used some long clip leads with my voltmeter to verify that 13V+ is appearing on the power cable feeding the end of the pump motor from the main solenoids.

A representative for HWH agrees that the pump motor must be failing. We've also identified the replacement motor.

I also contacted Mark Harrah who confirmed that my troubleshooting procedure was correct and indicated that the pump motor has failed.

I'm currently working with the local RV service vendor here in Parker, CO to have a new motor installed.

I'm going to consider this issue resolved unless I post an update stating otherwise.

Thanks again for all the information!!! Just knowing how to silence the alarm was a HUGE help!
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:08 AM   #21
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Bob & Connie,

Rocky Mountain Cummins in Denver is HIGHLY recommended by me for HWH work..

THey are a good company, fast and reliable...(a bit spendy though)
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Old 06-11-2010, 09:00 AM   #22
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Depending on pump location/access, a DIY to replace the pump motor is a modest effort. Two logitudinal [big word for me] bolts hold the motor to the pump. The pump mechanism/fluid is isolated from the motor so no issues of spills/draining fuild. Its a bit of pain to unstrap/restrap the two switch relays to the motor, just make sure the 12v current is off. However, sometimes its just better to pay someone to mess with this stuff.
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Old 06-11-2010, 02:19 PM   #23
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I typically am and want to be a "DIY'er". We have a considerable investment in this MH (even though it's used) and previously experienced the battery compartment fire just driving home from the purchase. I'm going to fix as many things as I can myself but I need to feel more confortable.

So far, the local service vendor here in Parker, CO has been very reasonable to work with on cost but can take too long to fix stuff (in my opinion & expectation). However, most vendors around the Denver area tend to take quite a considerable amount of time unless you're paying excessively for the service.

I'm actually looking at an extended warranty package available through the local service vendor and the they provide 24 X 7 phone support with or without the extended warranty. I'm assuming that some problems could be VERY, VERY expensive so I might sign up for now since I seem to be getting "nickel & dimed" right now.

I also signed up for Good Sam ERS to make sure we don't get stranded somewhere.

Any general advice along these lines would definitely be appreciated.
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Old 06-11-2010, 02:36 PM   #24
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PRIZM

Breakdown policy..has paid off for me

And they are local to CO
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Old 06-11-2010, 02:46 PM   #25
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Quote:
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... previously experienced the battery compartment fire just driving home from the purchase. I.....
Amazing coincidence...same happened to me
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Old 06-12-2010, 10:47 PM   #26
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Bob:

Though it sounds like you've narrowed down the problem, the board and fuses you were looking for are in the first large bin behind the PS front wheel, exactly mid-coach, mounted to the floor, behind a carpeted gray "box" that is protecting it and the main drain for the fresh water tank.

See it behind the white drain tube (looking forward at front bulkhead):
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:35 AM   #27
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Thanks Takepride!

It's amazing how much infomation all of you more "experienced" owners have and willing to share. I feel more & more comfortable with my Alpine Coach knowing that help is avaialble via this forum.

And as I stated previously, I'll be performing more repairs on my own as I gain familiarization. Like most everyone else, there's really no choice - I don't have an endless stream of money available!?
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:46 AM   #28
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Concerning the comment why WRV put the fuel fill behind the slide. One reason I could think of was fuel theft. Some little flimsy door would not stop a dedicated theif, but if they cannot find it (because it's behind the slide) they cannot steal it. I like it there, but I am most likely the only one who does. If (also having the electric motor version) you do the slide maintenace about twice a year, then you won't have any issues with this slide operation. I see the flimsy little doors broken all the time.
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