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Old 06-18-2010, 04:27 PM   #29
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Yea I hear ya Monty,

But if theft prevention was a concern, I would have preferred the fuel fill behind one of the basement doors, which require no hydraulic technology to open and close..
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Old 06-18-2010, 07:39 PM   #30
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Unless, you’re an APEX or SE with smartbeds then it's Hydraulic City on those models. As much as this item can cause a problem, it' much like any other piece of machinery, it's going to need some maintenance.

Today I lubed the rear end U-Joints and the front steering parts, except the steering U-Joint. I will have to do that one when I can go up and have someone turn the wheel to a position so I can get my grease gun on it.

Put a cold air return in the Closet for the bedroom HH register.

Changed the battery temperature sensor which connects to the Inverter so the batteries don’t get to hot when charging.

Chased down the fresh water tank auto fill solenoid part numbers so I can order two new ones.

Took some pictures of the original heating air supply system under the couch, and as I get it remodeled I will post my solution here on the forum.
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Old 06-18-2010, 07:59 PM   #31
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Old, I am very interested in the heat duct remodel. I have 2 ducts that are exposed to the elemnts that will be a bear to fix.

I found this solinoid for my RO system 2S050-3/8-1-D 3/8" NPT Direct Acting 2 Way Stainless Steel Solenoid Valve, 5mm orifice, (12VDC) $55.54 StcValve.com Very nice unit with a built in on LED. It might not meet the requirements for your Apex though.
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Old 06-18-2010, 11:45 PM   #32
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Wayne, I am taking pictures as I go along, so I have it documented. I have 5 air delivery units which all need to be redone. Behind the dash-passenger side, under the couch, under the kitchen counter-rear most point, under the bathroom sink, (which is behind the A/C breaker panel & A/C Inverter breaker panel & fuse block), to the right side and rear of the bedroom closet – we have queen sized bed.

I am doing the couch one first, since access is the easiest. If my plan works for this one, I will do the kitchen second, because this one has the biggest heat loss, almost all goes just under the counter, room is cold, but silverware is warm as a bug in a rug. Bedroom would be the third one, but, I have to move the mattress out of the way, and open up the platform to gain access to the current delivery pipes, and remove the bottom drawer which is where the register is. That one would be an all day job.

The hoses which are exposed to the elements are the one supplied by the bathroom unit, and it's location has me buggered on how to do anything with it. since one of the hoses goes across the MH through the tank bay and up to the W/C for delivery. I'm thinking for that one, stiffer type of hose wrapped in some kind of insulating material. Since, the location does not lend itself for rigid pipe and a lot of bends. HH/AQ says only 270 degrees (3 @ 90 degree) in any one run, and I think it already has 4-5, so it does not have more than a trickle of delivery air now. Also the bedroom, those hoses go through the engine compartment to the front side of bed platform and again those most likely already have some damage from the engine heat, so I don't get much heat from them. WRV could have installed the register in the place of the third drawer and mounted it directly to the cabinet, which would have been better than what they did. The better half hates this MH, (because of all the trouble we have had) but we are so far under it now, trading it off would only make things worse.

My choice of materials is: 200 PSI PVC white pipe, rubber couplings, assorted homemade brackets, and hangers.

As stated, I will take pictures as I can, and or make good notes so I describe the whole thing. Once I have done mine and can measure the time it takes, I will offer my "heating redesign" as a special service and then anyone can pick which ones they want me to do for them. The pipe costs 30, the rubber couplings are 4, my labor is 40 hr, and will figure out what kind of hold downs, etc I will have and figure those costs out.

Was in a Allegro Bus, and Tiffin, just mounted the register to the back side of the cabinet, and it blows air directly out of the venting they installed. WRV should have done a better job. But I am glad we don't have Country Coaches, there system was an a different breed of cat, and don't think I would have liked it much.
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Old 06-19-2010, 12:52 AM   #33
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Monty- I haven't checked it out but I hear CPVC pipe & fittings are rated for hot water.
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Old 06-19-2010, 03:45 AM   #34
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EM & All - The actual plumbing carrying the Boiler Antifreeze Solution is PEX plumbing; it's rated for high pressure and 200 degrees If I remember. Some RV manufacturers use RED PEX for the hot side of the fresh water system from the HH/AQ boiler. Some use only RED for the Boiler system delivery lines. Since the pressure is very low (1 -2 psi) on that system it’s used for its heat ability not its pressure ability.

What I am doing is redesigning the actual heat air system. WRV used flexible tube, and every time you go down the road it get jostled and moves around a lot. A more rigid air delivery system would be more efficient for the actual movement of the heated air from each register/heat delivery unit to the room area it is installed in.

Now you are more confused than ever. HAAAAA!
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Old 06-19-2010, 10:24 AM   #35
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Please move this to its own thread

we're all interested, but it has little to do with generator slides
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Old 06-19-2010, 12:56 PM   #36
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I agree!!!
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