In my last job before I retired four years ago I was responsible for manufacturing and selling the OSB (called "Structurwood", made by Weyerhaeuser) that ended up in WRV subfloors - both Alpenlite and Alpine Coach. It was engineered and designed for RV floors and sold to them in 8' by 24' and 8' by 12' panels. It will hold up to a lot of abuse and re-flooring, as long as you don't let water leaks procrastinate and create a damp floor for months. Should be no problem pulling the old tile and nails/staples where they occur and re-flooring. You will probably need to sand the sub floor to make sure it's level after you pull the tile and carpet off, before you install the new flooring.
I was also participated in Weyerhaeuser's entry into growing Eucalytpus Grandis for hardwood flooring and cabinet lumber, in Uruguay and Southern Brazil, and led the hardwood lumber division of that company, where we made lots of woods for flooring, for several years. I have installed 1800 sq ft of new Eucalyptus Grandis flooring (trade name "Lyptus") in our new home, and it's beautiful. I would think the only problem in a motorhome would be the slides, and if you can clear those, there's no problem with 3/4" flooring in most species as long as you get the moisture down to 10% or so in both the flooring and the motorhome before you install it. It's important to put the flooring in the coach and final dry both the sub floor and the coach to the same low humidity at the same time -- may take you a week or so. Use the furnace if you need to; just get them both dry down in to that 10% range as verified by a wood moisture meter, glue, and nail with a flooring staple gun as you suggested to get the pressure and the angle you need on the fastener. Then sand and put a very durable finish, like a couple coats Synteko on with a foam roller at an even, thin spread rate; practice on some scrap lumber first. Synteko is high in Urethane, rather than Polyurethane and when it's hard, is very durable. Let the Synteko harden up over several weeks after it's dry (e.g., walk on it with socks and make sure your pet has booties or something to walk on that won't scratch the floor). Once hardened over a few weeks or a month, Synteko is about the hardest finish you can apply to unfinished flooring. it's what we used in our home so it can take wheelchairs and other abrasive traffic.
Those are the main things - low wood moisture content in both the flooring and the subfloor, good fastening, hard finish; and cupping won't be a big issue.
I don't have a suggestion on the adhesive to use, but a flooring supply company like Kelly-Goodwin (Kelly Goodwin
) should be able to give you suggestions on the adhesive. If you rip up a lot of Structurwood pulling the tiles, you may need to aggressively sand it it and add a layer of 1/4 or 3/16 inch MDF to get a level surface for the flooring, but I don't think you will remove that much.
I would recommend 3/4" flooring over the engineered flooring because you have so much more thickness you can sand to take care of uneven or level spots, and you can re-sand it later to refinish without worrying about sanding through the veneer layer on the engineered flooring.