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Old 05-12-2016, 04:30 PM   #1
hax
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Horn Solenoid

Where is the horn solenoid located and what are the symptoms of it failing? My horn has turned into a wimpy squeal rather than a honk. Does anyone know the routing of the airlines to the horns?
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Old 05-12-2016, 05:17 PM   #2
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Don't know for sure but believe it is behind the ignition key area--basically it is co-located with the parking brake handle and the low air pressure warning sensors for the dash cluster. Don't know the symptoms of a failing solenoid but sure someone will know.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:47 PM   #3
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I found the solenoid on the firewall just to the driver side of the main HWH control module. It appears that the air lines to the horns must go up between the windshields. It is a real challenge to follow them in the rats nest under the dash.
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:17 AM   #4
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Mine is a 2001 38 FDDS, I just had to replace the horn solenoid on mine, had a meltdown with LOTS of smoke coming from under the dash. The fuse had blown which is a good first indicator, put in a new fuse with instant smoke.

The solenoid was on firewall behind accelerator behind a carpeted panel, you should be able to see the air lines above the carpet. The old solenoid had burnt off completely the 2 wires feeding it, unscrewed the cap and saw that the short extended into the coil area also.

After checking with multiple auto parts houses, Big Rig vendors, and RV repair facilities, I discovered nobody had one locally. Turned to Ebay, found lots of them ranging from cheap Hong Kong/Chinese versions in the $5-10 range up to chromies in the 25-30 range. Had to adapt one of the fitting with an adapter from auto parts house. Good news, horn worked first time after install, but kept on working and working just like the Eveready bunny, pulled fuse and now working on a larger problem with electrical, e.g. headlights/tailights, wipers, and horn not working, even after replacing the master controller.
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Old 06-13-2018, 02:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronidom View Post
Mine is a 2001 38 FDDS, I just had to replace the horn solenoid on mine, had a meltdown with LOTS of smoke coming from under the dash. The fuse had blown which is a good first indicator, put in a new fuse with instant smoke.

The solenoid was on firewall behind accelerator behind a carpeted panel, you should be able to see the air lines above the carpet. The old solenoid had burnt off completely the 2 wires feeding it, unscrewed the cap and saw that the short extended into the coil area also.

After checking with multiple auto parts houses, Big Rig vendors, and RV repair facilities, I discovered nobody had one locally. Turned to Ebay, found lots of them ranging from cheap Hong Kong/Chinese versions in the $5-10 range up to chromies in the 25-30 range. Had to adapt one of the fitting with an adapter from auto parts house. Good news, horn worked first time after install, but kept on working and working just like the Eveready bunny, pulled fuse and now working on a larger problem with electrical, e.g. headlights/tailights, wipers, and horn not working, even after replacing the master controller.
My problem started with continuous horn. Disassembled Smart Wheel and burnished switch contacts - no help. So I plugged the air lines at the horn end. Now the (2001 34') is at the repair shop and they're trying to locate the solenoid (wish I'd thought of pulling the fuse! Lots easier!)

Question: is the "master controller" the Smart Wheel interface box? And is that behind the pullout panel that houses the HWH control panel?
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Old 06-18-2018, 04:13 PM   #6
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Horn for the '98-03 rigs gets power thru the Battery VEC (wherein you'll find the Horn relay) and a 15A fuse marked HORN. If the VEC relay contacts fuse, you'll get continuous HORN.



The SmartWheel makes a multiplexed signal off the pad switch PC board under the rubber pad covers (coupla small screws from underneath to remove the pad switch assembly); mpx signal goes to the SW control module (wherever it may be mounted, and long may it waive) to generate a momentary output (for as long as the switch is depressed on the wheel) of Ground on J2.1 connector on the module; J2.1 can withstand 0.5A indefinitely and the relay coil on the VEC should only draw about 0.15A if not shorted to ground.
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Old 06-18-2018, 04:53 PM   #7
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Never occurred to me

Never considered that the problem might be a relay. As for the rest, I did R&R the smartwheel pads and horn switch (where the second R is "refurbish") without any change.



Just removed the horn relay; continuity went to the wrong contact. Applied 12V to the coil, and the relay is now clicking - and continuity shows correct. Returned relay to its place, turned on the ignition, and tapped the horn button - now I can feel a click behind the carpet at the corner where the pullout instrument panel comes out from the front wall.
Next step is to unplug the lines, reattach them to the horns, pump up the air and try it.


As for the SmartWheel, I think the culprit(s) may be the slip rings since other things are intermittent.
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