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Hot/Cold Hot/Cold in shower
05-22-2009, 10:41 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 17
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Does anyone else have the problem of the water in the shower going hot (really hot) to cold, then back and forth! Any suggestions as to what is causing it. The water at the kitchen sink is constant, so I'm sure it it not the water heater!
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05-22-2009, 11:22 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 1,055
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Go to your outside shower (yah like anyone really takes a shower out there) and TURN BOTH KNOBS OFF... it's probably turned off by the shower head only.
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1999 Fleetwood Bounder 32H Las Vegas Nevada No Dog * No Cat * No Co-Pilot
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05-22-2009, 11:36 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 48
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Is this happening when you are hooked up to city water, or only when you are on your pump. If it is only happening when you are on your pump, it is the pressure from the pump cycling that is causing the hot/cold water pressure balance to shift. An accumulator, such as sold online by CW and others will help you reduce the pressure swings.
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2009 Winnebago Sightseer 35J
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05-22-2009, 12:23 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,085
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Orville,
Rick and Mc2guy have both given you excellent suggestions, but many problems might be year or model related. Add that information to your "signature," which can be found in the "user CP." You will probably get better results from your questions.
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Dale Gerstel
2007 Limited SE 40fdts
Las Vegas, NV
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05-22-2009, 03:27 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Abington, PA
Posts: 1,104
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Dale, there are some of us that have unique problems to each of our own motorhomes. I was trying to come up with something really clever & witty but your situation that you have has covered this.  Anyway does this happen with just the hot on or just the cold on or do you have to have both on? I take it that the 07 still uses individual valves and not a mixing valve? Did you remove the shower hose and try it? Possibly take the valve stems out, stand between them and see what you get. Really Dale did you make this up. 
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Ted & Carol Ulmer
2005 Alpine 34', 34FDDS
2006 PT Turbo pusher
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05-22-2009, 08:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 460
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This is what I used to fix the problem. FloJet Quiet Pump Controller. It was only $35 at the time, 3 years ago. It still works great. It converts the constant speed pump to a variable speed pump. Virtually eliminates the Cold Shock every time the pump cycles off. Not sure it is the fix today at the prices I see! But, it does prove that reducing the number of cycles of the pump will help the problem. Also, if you have water to spare you could run another Cold Water outlet while showering! That would also reduce the number of pump cycles. The Speed controller prevents any cycling. It learns the psi that your pump turns off at and will keep it just below that value.
http://www.adventurerv.net/flojet-qu...cavj8foabge1h7
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2005 Monaco Knight, 3 Slide, 38' PST, Cummins 330 ISC, 34,000 miles on this one !
VMSpc, PressurePro, BrakeSwitch, DeLorme SA2010
2005 Honda CRV, Blue Ox, SMI Brake, TomTom Go 720
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05-27-2009, 11:20 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 1,505
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Oroville:
You might consider that you could have a flow restriction somewhere (likely in the hot). This will cause a flow imbalance as the pressure varies, caused by the pump cycling. While the standing pressure may be the same for hot and cold, the flow could be less. You can test this by running just hot into a bucket for two minutes and then just cold into another bucket for two minutes. Check the volume pumped out. Could be a pinched line.
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2003 Alpine 40FDTS (400HP)
Long Beach, CA
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05-28-2009, 01:42 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 260
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Orville - Most of us with that problem (and it is related to the cheap control unit WRV put in to start with) just replaced the control valve with a Delta and it works fine then. You can research this as it was a topic several years ago. But Dale is right - you need to add what your Rig is - model, year, etc for us to provide useful help!
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The Swans
2007 ALPINE APEX 40'MDTS
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05-28-2009, 10:58 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swansnest
Orville - Most of us with that problem (and it is related to the cheap control unit WRV put in to start with) just replaced the control valve with a Delta and it works fine then. You can research this as it was a topic several years ago. But Dale is right - you need to add what your Rig is - model, year, etc for us to provide useful help!
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I agree with Swanset, It is likely the shower valve as mine is very hard to adjust whether on city water or house water.
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05-29-2009, 12:09 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 1,505
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Orville:
If the problem is indeed your mixing valve. A cheaper alternative (and easier) would be to buy a rebuild kit for the valve, replacing the gaskets, etc. inside. On household plumbing, the symptoms you mention can (and usually are) related to a problem inside the mixing valve. It's only a few bucks for the parts kit and about 10 minutes of work.
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2003 Alpine 40FDTS (400HP)
Long Beach, CA
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05-29-2009, 02:02 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 260
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Take Pride - It has nothing to do with replacing the gaskets - It is a badly designed -crummy control valve to start with. Because of other posts on IRV2 - we replaced ours when it (the coach) was brand new so we (or the grandkids) would not get scalded. It was as much a safety issue as convenience! And it was worth every penny we spent!
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The Swans
2007 ALPINE APEX 40'MDTS
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05-30-2009, 01:15 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 1,505
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Swans:
I, too, saw that the newer coaches came with an inferior mixing valve. I remember the posts. However, the earlier coaches had pretty decent ones. I'm not sure why WRV went backwards on that, especially since the coach prices climbed far faster than the cost of living.
Mine is a very good quality (fortunately) and Orville's is even older than mine. I was basing my comments on the age of their coach and assuming it was the original valve.
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2003 Alpine 40FDTS (400HP)
Long Beach, CA
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05-30-2009, 01:50 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 260
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TP - Since Orville has not psted what year his Alpine is - I assume it is at least a '06 because he discribes perfectly what we discovered on the '07 with the cheap valves compared to our former 03. We love the Delta we put in because we can adjust the temp as well as the flow of the water.
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The Swans
2007 ALPINE APEX 40'MDTS
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05-30-2009, 10:55 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 1,505
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Swans:
Orville's profile says '01.
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2003 Alpine 40FDTS (400HP)
Long Beach, CA
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