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Old 12-18-2010, 06:31 AM   #15
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Thanks for the dewinterize info. Makes sense to flush before opening the HW valves to fill.
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:34 AM   #16
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Yes I did turn off the switch outside. First time i used the coach I could not find the well hidden ( on an outside cabinet next to the cook top) switch so I found the outside one first. Learn as you go.
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Old 12-18-2010, 02:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd49 View Post
Yes I only have the standard HW Tank. I really appreciate everyones information. Playing with this coach is about as much fun as i have had in a long time. We have 2 at PSU and have enjoyed tailgating with the kids. Now it is time to plan what I would like to work on next. Maybe an outside TV set up? Has anyone done an upgrade on an older coach?
Todd,
Give me a few days and I will PM you some pics of the outside tv we installed a few months ago.

Paul
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:12 PM   #18
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Paul:

I would be interested in your pix, as well.

Todd:

You ought to have a switch for the waterheater gas function next to the cooktop and a switch for the electric function outside, inside the panel (also at the circuit breakers, both need to be on to work). I use both systems on umbilical, electric to maintain the heat and gas to heat faster between showers and to extend my time in the shower.

No comments from you Hydro Hot folks!!!!!!
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takepride View Post
Paul:


No comments from you Hydro Hot folks!!!!!!
From the Hydro-Hot Owner's Manual:
4.1 Domestic Hot Water System
The Hydro-Hot's Domestic Hot Water Heating System must be completely
drained of domestic water any time the heater is stored where freezing
temperatures may be experienced.
CAUTION
: Not winterizing your Hydro-Hot, when freezing temperatures
are present,
will result in serious damage to the Hydro-Hot's Domestic
Hot Water Heating System.

NOTE:
The Hydro-Hot can still be used for interior zone heating even if
the domestic hot water system has been drained and winterized.
Please follow the instructions listed below when winterizing the Hydro-Hot’s
Domestic Hot Water Heating System:

A.
Completely drain the fresh water storage tank.

NOTE:
If your motorhome is equipped with appliances that use fresh
water (i.e. ice makers, water purifiers, etc.) follow the manufacturer's
recommendation for winterization.

B.
Disconnect the domestic water demand pump's suction line from the
fresh water storage tank.

SECTION 4: WINTERIZATION
Storage
C.
Attach an adequate piece of hose onto the suction side of the domestic
water demand pump.

D.
Place the opposite end of the hose into an adequate supply of FDA
approved RV-Antifreeze.

E.
Open / close all interior and exterior water faucets, one at a time, until
only pure RV-Antifreeze is present. Perform this procedure for both the
hot and cold faucets.

F.
Remove the hose and reconnect the domestic water demand pump's
suction line to the fresh water storage tank.

G.
Disconnect all electrical power supplies to the Hydro-Hot during storage.

NOTE:
For de-winterization, completely fill the fresh water storage tank.
Open / close all interior and exterior water faucets, one at a time, until only
clear water is present / visible.

CAUTION:
If you’re disinfecting your potable water system, after dewinterizing,
be sure to follow RVIA’s
“Instruction for Disinfection of
Potable Water Systems on Recreation Vehicles.”
These instructions
can be found in the ANSI A119.2 Handbook for Recreational Vehicle Standards.
To receive a copy of this RVIA Standard, write to:
Recreation
Vehicle Industry Association, 1896 Preston White Drive, P.O. Box
2999, Reston, VA 20195-0999,
or visit the RVIA website at www.rvia.com.

Page
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:12 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basil Shannon View Post
From the Hydro-Hot Owner's Manual:
Okay smart aleck!

I knew someone would rub the fact that neither Todd nor I have a Hydro Hot, in our faces. You just couldn't help yourself........

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Old 12-18-2010, 10:01 PM   #21
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Yes, apex's are different. We have (at least mine does) built in hose, which is connected to a dual filter and reverse osmosis water system (which we can turn off via a valve so it does not operate), which goes through two solenoid valves. Those valves open/close depending on weather you are filling the tank or not. It has been recommended that you only use the tank and water pump since those solenoid valves are not strong enough to resist the 40PSI the "regulator you have on the end of the hose" knocks the water pressure down too. So we do it that way, and its ok, because the water pump actually can get the water pressure up to around 60PSI if you open one valve all the way. Never lack for shower pressure using the pump ever.

On our 5th wheel, we had a “Tank Fill Port” and a hose connection for city water connection, simple, and easy to figure out. I was under the impression all Alpine Coaches (not apexs) had a similar system, one tank fill, and another port for city water. If there is a valve you turn 90 degrees I was not aware of that feature.

Basil - I could not have said it better if I tried. Since finding ANSI blah, blah, blah is hard use 1/4 cup bleach for every 15 gallons of fresh water tank capacity. Since alpine coaches have about 100-105 gallons fresh water tank capacity, you would use 1 & 3/4's cup bleach for the tank. Running the pump, make sure it goes through all the hot/cold side of the water system. Don't forget the washer and outside shower. Leave this solution in the system a minimum of 5 hours if the rig has been "winterized per the above directions" or has been stored for over 30 to 60 (longer as well) days. Drain out the tank, running the pump to clear as much of the remaing solutions out, then refill the tank, and run fresh water through the whole system again, trying to purge as much of the Clorox odor out as you can. Let this sit for an hour or so. Then drain and flush again, then take 1 cup baking soda, mix with fresh potable water and put this into the tank, then fill and run this mixture through the system. You may now use the fresh water system with no issues. The baking soda removes the taste of the chlorine bleach, and sweetens the water some. It was recommended to us in RV Repair School that this should be done every 6 months if living in the rig full time.
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Old 12-19-2010, 05:22 AM   #22
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My company makes a sanitizer that is for the restaurant industry. Used in the 3 bay sink systems for bar glasses, dishes etc. No oder or harm if ingested. Saves all the rinse out and worry. Maybe I should market for the RV industry for start up after storage. It dilutes at 1/4 oz per gallon of water. So for 100 gallons of fresh water you would need less than a quart of product. Sanitizes on contact, just mix and run through all the lines.
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Old 12-19-2010, 05:24 AM   #23
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Thanks, look forward to seeing them. Do you do away games? Come to PA and install. Appreciate the feedback!
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:05 AM   #24
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All - putting air pressure in the lines WILL NOT empty all the water in the HH unit. The company does not warranty these units if they discover you did not use RV Rated Antifreeze in the water lines. The best way is to just pump it in via the city water fill. If your coach does not have that, you can then pump/pour it into the fresh water tank, or force it into the fill hose (read APEX). I was lucky the first year, and blew out the water and it did not freeze. However, there are low points in these units which won't clear of water by using air pressure. To have the unit fixed after it freezes at the factory is around 6000.00 dollars. A new one is around 12K, so the fix is cheaper. Please do not just use air pressure, fill the water system with RV Rated Antifreeze and be safe.
Gary Bunzer, the RV Doctor, says the same thing about low spots.

Questions: Is it correct that the plastic water heater drain plugs be only finger tight? Joe
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:55 PM   #25
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No, the plastic water plugs should be tightened at least 1/2 turn tighter than finger tight, a better remedy would be to put in an anode specificially for the model of atwood water heater you have. Chech/change it annually, and yes, I know attwood does not normally recommend an anode, they put them in the new ones I have heard.
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:37 PM   #26
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Found two posts re cold weather and Attwood WH

These are not my posts. I found them after spending a lot of time searching forums:

I called Atwood technical dept today and asked about anode rods. Atwood said that their water heaters are aluminum and an anode rod is not needed. They also said that putting the anode rod in their water heaters will damage the water heater tank by the anode rod getting welded into the drain threads and being unable to remove it, thus requiring a new tank. The tech also said the people who market the anode rods for Atwood water heaters should be sued.


If you can get along without showers during the weekend, you can use your RV in the winter time while it is "winterized" ... use plastic milk jugs (or buy fresh water containers at Wally World) to store fresh water ... use that for drinking, cooking, and wash ups (heat the water in a kettle on the stove). you probably need a couple of gallons per person per day. We use windshield wiper fluid to flush the toilet ... probably a half gallon a day per person will be adequate. {It is cheaper than the pink stuff and doesn't leave as much residue} When you return home, dump, and pour some windshield wiper fluid down every drain that you have used over the weekend.

I was told that one end of a four way tire lug wrench fits the drain plug to get in there between everything.

The RainX windshield washer fluid is good to minus 25 and I bought several gallons for $2.50 at Wally World. It is $4.00 a gallon, on sale, at Camping World.
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:03 AM   #27
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Todd,

The AC distribution panel in your Alpine is behind the small door low on your left as you enter the bedroom. Make sure the Water Heater switch is OFF until you are certain the tank is again full of water.

The switch in the Galley is for the gas firing of the water heater, not the electric.

Also, the bypass valves must both be open/shut to avoid burning out the electrode/bypass the tank. 1 of them is easy to forget, which is why the electrode in your tank was replaced last Spring.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:36 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Rv'er View Post
Yes, apex's are different. We have (at least mine does) built in hose, which is connected to a dual filter and reverse osmosis water system (which we can turn off via a valve so it does not operate), which goes through two solenoid valves. Those valves open/close depending on weather you are filling the tank or not. It has been recommended that you only use the tank and water pump since those solenoid valves are not strong enough to resist the 40PSI the "regulator you have on the end of the hose" knocks the water pressure down too.
Actually, these G & C solenoid valves are rated at 114 psi. I run my system at the 85-90 psi pressure we get here in Palm Springs with no problems. Makes for great RO water production rates.

I think these valves are no longer made and I am looking for a substitute in case I run out of spares. Aubrey's had a few from the auction but the NC tank fill ones are gone.
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