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Old 07-22-2017, 12:24 PM   #1
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Hot weather Driving Tips--Alpines

It is totally too hot for travelling right now but if you have to: 1-leave the rear engine compartment door open while driving; 2-shift down to keep the engine RPMs up on long grades [2000+ RPMs]; 3-make sure you leave the dash air selector on "Max" setting; 4-hang "designer" shower curtains behind driver/pass seats to seal off/keep cab area cooler; and 5-start genset and use roof A/C, if needed......stay cool......
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Old 07-23-2017, 03:01 PM   #2
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Number 6--once engine has reached ops temps, check the "h-valve" on you dash heater core to make sure hot coolant is not leaking passed the valve and heating the core.....
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:25 AM   #3
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I would add to replace the radiator cap every few years. I have had a couple leak a bit when hot.
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:50 AM   #4
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Thanks Dean, your post always have GOOD information.
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:52 AM   #5
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A good list, thanks!
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Old 07-24-2017, 10:14 AM   #6
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What is too hot for an Alpine?
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Old 07-24-2017, 02:46 PM   #7
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When your comfort level drops below your acceptable level!?
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:03 PM   #8
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What is too hot for an Alpine?
Lots of variables:

Sure, ambient temperature is a big one.

But 105 degrees on flat ground is different than on significant long grades.

No toad vs 7,000 pound toad give different heat loads to the cooling package.

If we know we will be transiting an area with marginal conditions (and certainly if below marginal) we get up pre-dawn and try to be parked by noon. Have done that several times crossing the desert SW in the summer.
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:41 PM   #9
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When your comfort level drops below your acceptable level!?
As you can guess from the location portion of his signature, Bob knows a lot about heat and acceptable levels!!!
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:22 AM   #10
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I installed an overflow tank on the the coach's original tank and have never had to add antifreeze again.
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Old 07-26-2017, 10:12 AM   #11
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Adding additional expansion tanks--this issue varies from coach to coach but my general observation is that owners tend to overfill the OEM expansion tank. Combine this with an old/weak radiator cap and you have a continuous overflow issue. Proper check and fill procedures require that the engine be warmed to ops temperature and be running BEFORE checking coolant level--then coolant should be at sight=glass level. If you check while cold--expansion tank will appear to be low. Exception to this observation is when the sight=glass fails and traps coolant inside the lens. In this case, tank appears to be full, regardless of engine temps.
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Old 07-26-2017, 05:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Adding additional expansion tanks--this issue varies from coach to coach but my general observation is that owners tend to overfill the OEM expansion tank. Combine this with an old/weak radiator cap and you have a continuous overflow issue. Proper check and fill procedures require that the engine be warmed to ops temperature and be running BEFORE checking coolant level--then coolant should be at sight=glass level. If you check while cold--expansion tank will appear to be low. Exception to this observation is when the sight=glass fails and traps coolant inside the lens. In this case, tank appears to be full, regardless of engine temps.


Dean, I agree with the proper procedure you detail above, but it is a real PITA to check the level daily after the engine is warmed to operating temps, by that time I am usually miles down the road, I normally start the engine 10 minutes before hitting the road while I finish buttoning up and keep the rpm's down for the first 20, or so, minutes. I wish WRV had placed a sight glass at the cold level, it would make morning starts soooo much easier. I have a VMSpc that I use to closely monitor the running temp, it normally runs at 190 - 195 and if it gets too high (above 205) I down shift to increase the rpm's. I have never seen it above 207, even on some of the grades in the west, but I stay away from there in July and August.
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:05 PM   #13
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Dean, I agree with the proper procedure you detail above, but it is a real PITA to check the level daily after the engine is warmed to operating temps, by that time I am usually miles down the road, I normally start the engine 10 minutes before hitting the road while I finish buttoning up and keep the rpm's down for the first 20, or so, minutes. I wish WRV had placed a sight glass at the cold level, it would make morning starts soooo much easier. I have a VMSpc that I use to closely monitor the running temp, it normally runs at 190 - 195 and if it gets too high (above 205) I down shift to increase the rpm's. I have never seen it above 207, even on some of the grades in the west, but I stay away from there in July and August.
How much effort is required while out checking to make sure the jacks are down, etc. to walk back and open the engine area and check the sight glass? Just part of our routine when getting into a site and making hookups, etc. Did have a new sight glass put in this year. Really easy to view - doesn't take much to make my life easier.
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Old 07-27-2017, 06:24 AM   #14
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Did have a new sight glass put in this year. Really easy to view - doesn't take much to make my life easier.
David where did you get your new sight glass from?
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