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Old 07-05-2006, 12:29 PM   #15
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Tom, I just completed cleaning up the battery cables on my Alpine. I found a battery distribution bus with four posts and an insulated cover. Its rated at 300 amps. I found it at Boaters World Marine Centers.
part # is 19-697-8522. Made by BEP Marine, Part 703-300A. I mail ordered it. Their phone is 1-800-682-2225. You can see a picture at BEP Marine.

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Old 07-05-2006, 12:52 PM   #16
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While monkeying w/all the cables anyway, you might want to add a pair of permanent voltmeters, one ea. for house & chassis. I just added Radio Shack #22-410 analog dc voltmeters in my batt compartment so I don't have to R&R the multimeter. The dials are large enough I can see what's charging & what's not by opening the batt compartment. I screwed the mounting plate to the LR jack housing. There are nicer digital units available from Martel; I have two of those to put on the panel above the passenger's seat by the tank monitor panel that will show the same thing, but haven't snaked the signal wire yet (SWMBO may have something to say when I tear the front end apart for that, no doubt she'll be pleased).
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Old 07-05-2006, 09:39 PM   #17
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I have increasing the chassis battery count from 4 to 6. and sealed up the compartment against dirt and dust. I did maintain enough ventilation for the batteries. I installed two bus bars, one for the coach and one for the cassis batteries. This way I only need one + (plus) connection on each battery string.Everything is color coded, + = red, - = black, 6 volts = blue

I purchased the bus bars from WestMarine.

More battery photos
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Old 07-07-2006, 04:10 PM   #18
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Tom & Patty, Toyz found the right spot to buy the copper battery strips. West Marine.They have become huge buying up most other marine stores including Boat US which is like an FMCA to us. They are on the net and you can locate most everything as well as having many locations. I don't think they sell any performance parts for the Cruiser.
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Old 07-07-2006, 09:35 PM   #19
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Ted I looked at the bus bar from west marine. The one in their catalog was only rated at 100 amps and the fuse on the cable is 300 amps. So I opted to have the bus be rated to at least what the fuse was rated for safety. I also like the clean installation and sealing of the compartment.

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Old 07-07-2006, 10:46 PM   #20
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The bus bars I used from Westmarine are made by Blue Sea. They have 4 - 3/8in studs mounted to a tin plated solid brass bar, rated at 600 amps.
West marine p/n 192445
Blue Sea p/n 2104
They are expensive but when you are dealing with this much amperage you do not want to skimp.
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:59 PM   #21
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Ok guys, I'm getting ready this weekend to tear apart the battery compartment . Getting new welding cable for the new Trojan 105 battery connections. I think I can cut the other cables and put new ends on them. They look long enough to attach to the bus bar I'm putting in.

Here is the question; Do I run the cable from the Big Boy Battery Isolator Relay to one of the house batteries, the other to the bus bar?

Or do I run a jumper wire from the house batteries to the bus bar and connect both cables from the Big Boy to the bus bar?

I'm thinking it makes no difference

I have a crimper, should I solder and crimp?

It will not look anywhere as nice as Gary's(Toyz). His is impressive

Thank you for the help.

TD
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:23 AM   #22
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I would try to keep the number of cables attached to the battery posts to a minimum. If you have a good crimper, it should do fine. I did solder the main feed to the bus, but that's just me!
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:42 PM   #23
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I agree with Danny! On any battery plant you want to minimize the amount of connections pushing and pulling on any battery post.

As for crimping versus soldering.... Many engineers believe soldering should be avoided on all high amperage connections. (In any large AC or DC power plant you will never find soldered connections). The reason being, with a copper wire inserted into a copper sleeve (the connector). There will be expansion / contraction as the wires and connectors heat up and cool from load changes. Because the wire and connector are of similar material they change at the same rate. Now!!!! Add lead between these two copper materials and the expansion /contraction are at different rates and will result in separation and cracking between the copper and lead. This now poor connection will generate more heat at the connection making the situation worse.

On all my crimped connections I always dip the end of the wire into an oxide inhibiting compound before crimping. This will prevent the connection between the wire and connector from corroding due to exposure to air and acid. This grease like compound can be found at any good hardware store in the electrical section.
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:10 AM   #24
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Tom, I would definitely crimp the connectors if you have the correct crimper. If you don't my shop has two of them and I can UPS one out to you if that would help.

Gary, your compartment looks terrific and I like the idea of closing it up to keep the dirt out. Is there any concern with heat builup being closed up?
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Old 11-04-2006, 07:20 AM   #25
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Tom, Heat was not my primary focus; my main concern was the build-up of hydrogen gas.

When a lead-acid battery is charged it will electrolyze water in the electrolyte contained in the battery. This will generate free oxygen and hydrogen gas to be vented from the battery. Any hydrogen mixtures of 4% or more in the battery compartment air are an explosive mixture when ignited. So!!!!!!!! Good ventilation is a must.

I have provided 4 locations for air to move freely through the battery compartment. 2 are located high (round vent into motor area and oval space around hydraulic jack hose fitting) and 2 are located low (both in the base of the battery tray).

Because of all this ventilation the batteries do get dirty. Nothing like the dirt and gravel that collected before.

An excellent way keep the tops of all batteries clean, is to apply a heavy coat of silicone spray to clean batteries. Then when they get dirty simply hose off with water.
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:00 PM   #26
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Wait guys, you didn't answer my question about the Big Boy cable connections .

Here is the question; Do I run the cable from the Big Boy Battery Isolator Relay to one of the house batteries, the other to the bus bar?

Or, do I run a jumper wire to the bus bar and connect BOTH cables from the Big Boy to the bus bar. Does it make a difference ?

Waiting for my bus bar

Thanks
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Old 11-05-2006, 07:04 PM   #27
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Tom. A picture is worth a 1,000 words!!!!! Your awnser may be found in the photo of TOYS Buss bar, and in your photo of Chucks Buss bars......
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Old 11-05-2006, 07:52 PM   #28
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Tom, I'm not clear, you are using one bus bar or two?

In my scenario I used one bus bar for the coach batteries and one for the house batteries. If you look at my picture you can just make out the short cables going from each bus bar to each side of the Big Boy. This way all cables are attached at the bus bar with only one going to the battery.
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