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Old 04-28-2016, 09:25 PM   #1
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House Battery Configuration Sanity Check

Hello - I'm in the process of re-configuring house batteries. I've looked at what other people have done both in RV and solar setups. Right now all of the house systems positive cables terminate on one positive battery post and the negative ones are setup similarly, except they terminate on one negative post. Please take a look at the two options below and let me know which one would be better for equal amp draw and charging across the batteries. Thank you.
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:28 PM   #2
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I would do 'A'
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:38 PM   #3
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"A" me too
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:46 PM   #4
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Can't think of any advantage of the individual wires , so A

Disadvantage, of B, extra cost of wire of a gauge to handle starter draw , if you ever have to hit the boost switch to start the engine if chassis batteries are dead.
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Old 04-28-2016, 10:10 PM   #5
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By terminating the POS and NEG at opposite ends of the battery bank in A, you are essentially doing the same thing. The goal is to equalize the load across the batteries. BTW, if you are looking for a good quality busbar, search for Blue Sea. I stumbled on them when I was adding a battery monitor to my system. The are good quality.
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:39 PM   #6
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House Battery Configuration Sanity Check

A is the best configuration, I may be wrong, but I don't think WRV ever used bus bars. Did you check the tech library, there should be a wiring diagram. You will need to find the one that applies to your coach, for example under wiring diagrams, 1997 - 2003, "Chassis Schematic 3.00, sheet 3" shows how 4 house batteries were wired. It appears you have 6 so check out the other drawings. In later years WRV also placed a diagram on the wall of the battery bay, not sure if they did that on yours, you should check. I also take a picture before tearing anything apart, helps me to remember!
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:00 AM   #7
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The perfect balanced plan would be B, with all equal length cables. You could use smaller cables since the amps are only pulled from one pair, until the bus bar.

Seems like overkill unless you are switching each set, to isolate any pair of batteries.

I did that with my 8 battery bank. I used 2, A/B switchs, but boats require them.

In plan A, each cable needs to be heavy enough to carry the full output of the whole bank. You can isolate a pair by removing a jumper.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:53 AM   #8
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Thank you everyone for responding to my question and I am leaning towards option A. Right now no busbars are installed, however I am planning install these busbars: https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content...int/3point.php and use 4/0 cable from the battery banks to the bus bars and 2/0 between the batteries.
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Old 04-29-2016, 12:03 PM   #9
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I'm also a fan of Blue Sea products however they cost more than the ones you linked. I personally don't care to save money when it comes to electrical systems - not to say the ones you're looking at are bad, but there's usually some basis for a cost differential.
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Old 04-29-2016, 12:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yuppie_rednk View Post
Thank you everyone for responding to my question and I am leaning towards option A. Right now no busbars are installed, however I am planning install these busbars: https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content...int/3point.php and use 4/0 cable from the battery banks to the bus bars and 2/0 between the batteries.
I have used the "4 post terminal bus bar" from that company.

I was surprised at the high quality of the products when I got them, considering the difference in price.

It is just as good as the Blue Sea bus bar, I use on my negetive side.
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