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Old 06-07-2011, 05:45 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by mythplaced View Post
Ahha!

HEAT is the enemy....I get it!

So why would a 160 amp fail before a 200 amp? the heat generated would be similar, right?
I'd say so if the 160 was all in and the 200 was all in...the duty cycle would have a big effect on both of them. Darn hard to measure that ...(apples to apples at least).

Then there could be a variable in wiring diameter...maybe the 200 amp would have heavier windings...that would make more sense. If so it should hold up better? I would bet on that being the key factor...
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:10 PM   #44
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Pushing any mechanical item to maximum limits and keeping it there surely must wear it out faster then light to medium usage, be it the engine, transmission, suspension, or electrical system IMHO
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:39 PM   #45
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That's what I can't understand....an alternator is NOT mechanical....It's solid state electronics

Other than the bearings, THAT I understand....
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Old 06-08-2011, 12:00 AM   #46
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The 160A units seem to work fine in most of the SE units. The problem arises when the 160 units were used in the apex's, since all those rigs had Residential Refers, and many other high end electrical devices. So when going down the road, to keep those 8 house batteries up when the inverter was running to keep the fridge cold, the alternator was at its max output of 160A, all the time. Because it’s not really designed to run maxed out all the time, it caused the diodes and other components in the electronic section to burn out-heat being the big factor. Since those of us who have had that failure, we have switched to 200A units, and they don't run at Max output all the time, so our performance is actually better, because they can run all day at 160A output and not be stressed at all. My coach performs better than it ever did with the 160A unit. And although I cannot show this by specifics, it just does, everything now works just like it should, not hit or miss as before.
If that is not clear, for 12 hours a day, run everywhere you need to go, and over the next few days, especially if not in shape, your heart will fail, because it cannot pump blood at max all the time, now that should clear it up for you. Nothing can run at maximum output all the time and expect it to work. There are duty cycles on all machinery and operating parameters for it as well. Short periods of time for max output is fine, all the time, expect it to fail quickly.
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:05 PM   #47
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Monty,

What was the make and model of alternator you put on yours? I might be interested in a swap.

Ah, Ha.....I suppose my confusion stems from the fact that the alternators should be specified as "160 A MAX" rather than "160 A"...

The latter gives a perception that it is rated to run at a continuous 160 A. Kind of like an inverter which is labeled 2000 A, and that level of output is sustainable and that is specified in the detail specifications...

Tech Specs on Xantrex inverter
Weight: 56 lbs.

Warranty: Mfr. 30 month warranty.

Mfg Part #: 81-2010-12

Tech Notes:

Max. Continuous Power 2000 watts
Surge Capability(Peak Power) 4500 watts
Optimum Efficiency 85% full load, 93% peak
No Load Current Draw <0.12A
Output Waveform Modified Sine Wave
Input Voltage Range 10-15.5 VDC
Low Voltage Indicator Yes (10 Volts)
Low Voltage Cut-Out Yes (10 Volts)
AC Receptacles NA
AC Transfer Switch 30 amps
Weight (lbs.) 45
Length (in.) 13.9
Width (in.) 11.5
Height (in.) 7.75


Specifications subject to change without notice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Rv'er View Post
....The problem arises when the 160 units were used in the apex's, since all those rigs had Residential Refers, and many other high end electrical devices. So when going down the road, to keep those 8 house batteries up when the inverter was running to keep the fridge cold, the alternator was at its max output of 160A, all the time. .......
I have the 200 watt inverter and residential refer in my 2003 (built late 2002), and after 9 years, there are no output problems so far Perhaps it's the later model inverter draw, or Vansco, I dunno, I'm just wondering whether or not I should upgrade my alternator or not...
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:27 PM   #48
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Hello, do a search on alternators and changing, I posted pictures as well, it's fairly easty, have a friend help is handly. I paid 330 for the alternator. It's a delco remey model, the post says everything about it. Send PM and I will dig out the information later.
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:22 PM   #49
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[QUOTE=StansCustoms;863453]I don't know diddly about the invertor...I guess, including how to determine if the thing even works right.

My dash air needs to be charged..and since I haven't fond the refigerant leak yet I don't want to waste the refrigerant on this upcomming weekend trip.

Hi Stan, Try a black light to find your leak......Look for a green slime,thats where the leak will be, you might have to wait for the right lite to be able to see better or cover the engine compartment to help block the extra light. Walmart sells black light bulbs.
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Old 06-09-2011, 06:22 PM   #50
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[QUOTE=She and I;875082]
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Originally Posted by StansCustoms View Post

Hi Stan, Try a black light to find your leak......Look for a green slime,thats where the leak will be, you might have to wait for the right lite to be able to see better or cover the engine compartment to help block the extra light. Walmart sells black light bulbs.
Richard
I don't know how we ended up with AC but the "green slime" will only be present if it was installed specifically to check for leaks it's not the normal color.

There may be other leak detector dye colors as well.
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Old 06-09-2011, 06:56 PM   #51
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I don't know how we ended up with AC but the "green slime" will only be present if it was installed specifically to check for leaks it's not the normal color.

There may be other leak detector dye colors as well.

Hey John, Please read Stans thread again........your answer is there.
As for green slime no dye has to be added it's a by product of R134 freon
which I beleve is visible with a black light......
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:55 AM   #52
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[QUOTE=She and I;875215]
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Hey John, Please read Stans thread again........your answer is there.
As for green slime no dye has to be added it's a by product of R134 freon
which I beleve is visible with a black light......
Richard
It seems I might have to re educate myself about 134 this weekend
Thank you for the correction I have a 92 Topkick that was converted to 134 that leaked a few days after it was completed and you had no problem seeing the green with the naked eye and since I was billed for dye detector I assumed that's what the green was.
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:35 AM   #53
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There is no way the roof airs will run on the inverter. You don't say what size your generator is but judging from your rig I would guess you have no more than a 7.5 Kw Onan, in which case you would use no more than 1/2 gallons of fuel per hour running the front A/C.
I had CW install a 2500 watt inverter in our 2000 DSDP. I assumed they would wire it in correctly, they didn't. I COULD run a 13,500 heat pump off our two U-2200 batteries for about 20 min before the inverter cut out. Also, if I had the inverter on and we stopped the refer would continue to run off the inverter/batteries till I remembered to switch it over manually.
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