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Old 06-03-2012, 09:29 PM   #1
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HWH Hyd Pump Replacement

I'd like to know how to replace the HWH pump on my 2000 Alpine 36FDS.

With 1/4 inch on either side of the pump & reservoir how do you get the pump removed from the manifold?

Link to picture of HWH bay.

Thanks!

Jeff
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:42 PM   #2
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The pump itself only rarely goes out. Most likely inop problem is the pump relay which is banded to the pump motor body w/those two hose clamps (make darn sure you've got the 12V shut off to the pump assembly when you start moving any of the wiring), then the Master solenoid also banded to pump motor.
Then, assuming the solenoids are actually firing correctly and the pump motor no-go, then you'd need to remove the motor from the pump manifold. The 12V motor comes separated, but I've never done it myself. You can make a bit more access by undoing one or the other bolts that hole the manifold to the mini-bay floor, & spinning the assembly the small amount it will move.

Another access possibility is to cut a hole in the bulkhead adjacent to the side where access is needed. WRV started to do this in later years, my 06 had a large access plate bolted onto the rear bulkhead face w/6 or 10 bolts and gave good access to the rear side. You will need to cut a replacement sheet larger than the access hole you cut & bolt or screw it on to keep the mini-bay closed after surgery.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EngineerMike View Post
The pump itself only rarely goes out. Most likely inop problem is the pump relay which is banded to the pump motor body ...
I have +12VDC at the pump upon pressing a "Coach Up" (i.e. jack down) button on the control panel, but the pump says NO!

I had thought of creating an access panel initially in the wheel well for access to the front side of the hyd assembly, but I don't have the ability to remove a wheel. I didn't really consider making the access hole into the storage bay for the reservoir to slide to the rear, but that would work and might be easier and closing it up would not be as critical as inside the wheel well. Hmmmmm.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:33 AM   #4
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From that description, I'd say you are finding fault w/the motor, not the pump. Motor is on right side of manifold on your photo, manifold in the middle & the actual pump is incorporated into the pump face.

Could still be the solenoid(s) or connection inline. Sometimes the solenoid contacts are old, pitted, and not making sufficient contact to allow full voltage that the motor wants, could also be a connection inline that won't allow full amp flow. To check my motor I used a remote starter switch to jump from the fat 12V cable on the Master solenoid straight to the pump +12V stud, and watched the volt drop into the 11's. If that doesn't make the motor kick, and the volts drop too much or not at all, I'd say the motor is bad (assumes you've checked all cable connections first).
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:47 AM   #5
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Jeff-
E-Mike is correct. More than likely it is one of the relays attached to the motor with hose clamps or the electric motor.

To allow better access remove two bolts holding the pump to the bay floor. The bolts are easy access from under the coach and each is treaded into the aluminum pump housing. Now you can rotate entire assembly 45deg in the bay if there is enough slack in the hydraulic hoses (be sure and remove all plastic ties).

Do not operate the pump unless at least one of the two bolts is installed and tightened to the steel floor. This provides a good ground and without it you will fry the motor like I did!

The electric motor can also be removed in the bay without losing any fluid or disconnecting any hoses. Simply remove the two bolts at the end of the motor and the entire motor will come off.

And questions, give me a call.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:15 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EngineerMike View Post
From that description, I'd say you are finding fault w/the motor, not the pump.
I have been saying "pump" incorrectly, I actually meant that I have full voltage at the electric MOTOR that runs the pump. I really don't think that it's one of the relays.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:00 AM   #7
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Hello Jeff:

I have had to replaced two electric pump motors on my 2001. The motor is easy to replaced once you gain access. The photo looks like there is an access panel. Remove the two bolts on the end of the motor and motor pulls out from the access panel opening. There is no leakage of fluid. Just make sure you disconnect power before you work on replacing the motor.
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Old 06-04-2012, 03:50 PM   #8
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I cut an access panel in the wheel well and did not have to remove the wheel to do it. Turn the wheel hard to the left and there is room to work there. I haven't had to replace anything yet but it makes checking the fluid level a lot easier.
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:34 PM   #9
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I am amazed that YES the pump can be turned after removing the 2 bolts that secure it to the bay floor. Once rotated (clockwise in my case) I was able to easily remove the pump motor.

My coach does NOT have an access panel front or back. There is a piece of non-conductive material on the right nearest to the pump to protect against shorts to the wall. But I definately had house batts disconnected.

Took it to a place to possibly be rebuilt. Also have a call into HWH for their part price.

I'll post again once I find out if it gets rebuilt or replaced.
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:17 PM   #10
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I have had to repair two of these motors. Same problem both times and a very simple repair. The ground from the case (12 v gnd) gets to the commutator through a rivet that corrodes. I cleaned this internal connection and replaced the rivet with a screw and nut...no further problems. Haven't had problems with relays yet...only the motor.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:51 PM   #11
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Just talked to a fellow Alpine Coach owner, we have the HWH 625 leveling/slide setup. His motor quit, took it to a local automotive alternator rebuild shop. Shop popped the motor open & found the problem to be a broken brush holder, likely a weakness on these units. They said they couldn't order just the holder, but had the same motor in stock for $140. HWH wanted $267.

More discussion on replacing HWH pump motor on this thread.
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:00 PM   #12
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I've had a similar occurrence....

When attempting to use any of the HWH functions (slides or jacks) I have to push the button or rocker switch several (2-3)times to get the pump to actuate, once it does all the functions work..

I'm thinking relays, am I correct?
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:51 PM   #13
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Mike,

I had a pump motor quit while I was trying to open the gen slide to refuel. Luckily, it quit after going out about 8" so I could at least refuel. My point is that I tested it all by myself by using some long clip leads on the main terminal of the pump motor & a suitable ground attached to a voltmeter while sitting the voltmeter inside the coach via the front door. If you're reading approx. 12V everytime you press one of the rocker switches to extend or retract the jacks or the gen slide but the motor only runs sometimes, then the problem is the motor. If you get approx. 12V incinsistently and the motor runs then you probably have a relay or similar type problem.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:20 PM   #14
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Bob is right- test voltage signal at the motor by running test lead from the main + stud into the motor. If it registers batt voltage every time you press the button, the motor is suspect (could be bad ground at motor, so check that before remotoring.
If you get an intermittent, it could be the Pump Relay (solenoid banded to the motor), could be the Main Relay (The other solenoid banded to motor), or it could be the switch pad. I diagnosed a friend's 05 to the switch pad, and he ordered a replacement from HWH. Easy install, ~$150 IIRC.
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