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Old 09-12-2007, 06:56 PM   #15
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Thanks So much everyone. I went out to the Schucks Auto store in Seattle at 206-782-6440 a got one of those oil cap shut off/on nozzles with a 12" hose on the end reduced to 3/8" diameter. Then I went to the hardware store and picked up another 4' of clear hose. I really think I have got it too long by a foot. It also screws on the ATF oil bottle and has an adaptor to use it with big neck bottles like anti-freeze. I will keep this just for my hydraulics. I have attached a photo of what I got. Oh, with the mirrors it helps finding the cap. I am thinking of modifying it like a car transmission tube and dipstick but with a threaded breather. Sorry I haven't figured out to enclose a photo yet!
Thanks for the idea.
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Old 10-21-2007, 08:18 AM   #16
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Gator 67, I have a 2005 Alpine and found the resevoir behind the control panel. Towards the front of the coach there is a large Black plastic hex cap on top of what I am assuming is the resevoir which I am assuming is the fill cap.Would you agree?
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Old 10-21-2007, 12:09 PM   #17
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Use a simple, inexpensive StaLube hand pump (buy at Advance Auto or AutoZone) or similar pump. Take a clean gallon jug like what automotive wiper cleaner fluid comes in and pour your quart fluid into same and attach the hand pump. Pump nozzle easily gets to/into the hard to access filler hole. Pump is only a few $ and is re-usable. Gets the fluid in without a mess.




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Old 10-21-2007, 05:13 PM   #18
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Ted and Carol: Yes, the hydraulic fluid filler cap is in the small locked panel up near the door. I agree.

Bill in NY: I'll look for the pump. I had bought a funnel with a flexible metal tube at the bottom, but, long as it was, I couldn't get the funnel high enough to get the fluid to flow. The pump is a great idea. Thanks!
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Old 10-22-2007, 03:01 AM   #19
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Just be very careful when you remove the breather so you don't allow any of the dirt around the opening to get into the reservoir.

Best to use a mirror and and a flashlight so you can wipe the Schmutz away from the opening before you add fluid (this has been discussed before).
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Old 10-22-2007, 06:55 AM   #20
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Gator 67, thank you for your response on the filler cap for the HWH.
As far as filling it goes why not use a battery bulb filler that they put water in batteries with. I doesn't hold that much so it should not take to many fills. If you go to the righy automotive store you can get a funnel with a longer flexible neck or put a smaller funnel in the resevoir and the use your gooseneck to fill that, CAREFULLY.
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Old 10-22-2007, 09:00 AM   #21
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The gear lube pump for outboard motors works great as mentioned above. You can get one at Walmart for around $5.
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:36 PM   #22
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FYI:

I spoke to Chris at WRV today and he suggested three things.

1) Dextron III is interchangable and mixable with HWH fluid, though not clear. Mine was marked "Chevron Rykon Motor Oil MV", he suggests just adding Dextron III.

2) Fill with jacks up and slides in.

3) After filling run each slide out and hold button for 60 seconds, then in and hold for 60 seconds. Do each slide, one at a time. This will work out any air in the lines and is not a danger to the pump. No need to do the jacks.

Using the quart-size Dextron III bottle (similar to a plastic oil bottle) with a small funnel (cooking size) allows plenty of access without tubes, pumps etc. Of course that is only certain for an '03 40FDTS. As eMike says YMMV!
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Old 10-24-2007, 03:28 PM   #23
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Strange they would recommend holding the button down for 60 seconds after the slide went out or came in. Another post (I can't remember where) said to release the button as soon as the slide was all the way in or all the way out because after the slide is in (or out), holding down the button puts a lot of pressure on the hydraulic hose connections and can weaken them over time. Was that not correct?
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Old 10-24-2007, 05:07 PM   #24
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Not sure about a full 60 seconds but I do hold the button at least 3-5 clicks. The hoses had better be designed for a standard 2 times the operating psi. (think my system is @ 3,000psi) I do not have the circuit diagram of the hydraulic block but the system had also better have a relief vale built into the system. At this low operating psi and short duration the possibility of having the hydraulic oil shear is remote. There is more of a risk of issues resulting from the reservoir not having a swash internal bulkhead on the return side. This eliminates some of the finer slosh bubbles from the moving oil, a 3 micron internal suction filter, and a magnet in the sump
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Old 10-24-2007, 05:55 PM   #25
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by gator67:
Strange they would recommend holding the button down for 60 seconds after the slide went out or came in. Another post (I can't remember where) said to release the button as soon as the slide was all the way in or all the way out because after the slide is in (or out), holding down the button puts a lot of pressure on the hydraulic hose connections and can weaken them over time. Was that not correct? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The hydraulic system should be rated for 2 times the operating pressure. The reason to run fro 30 seconds or more after the slide is in or out is to purge the lines after a cylinder push to get all of the air out of the line and back to the reservoir. The system is designed with a relief regulator to allow the excess pressure to be returned to the reservoir at a pressure lower than the system design.

Our dealer told us to run the pump for about 10 seconds each time we extended or retracted the slides.
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Old 10-24-2007, 07:40 PM   #26
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Thanks Texas,

Maybe I needed a bit more clarity. The 30 - 60 seconds extra for both out and then in is to purge air from the lines after adding fluid.

The normal time to hold the button after full extension or retraction is 5 - 10 seconds. This builds the pressure to hold the slide fully out or fully in. They should never sit loose, they'll creep. The pump is not in danger of overheating with so little time running and is rated to carry much more pressure than it is developing to push slides in or out.
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Old 10-25-2007, 04:30 AM   #27
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In my mind, the smart money is to hold the pressure for only a few seconds after the slide has seated. Although the relief/bypass valve will offer some protection, either by sending the fluid back to the reservoir with an external circuit or shunting it to the upstream side of the pump with an internal circuit, the valve is set for a pressure higher than is required to make the actuators operate properly.

When I'm retracting the slide, I watch as it moves. When I see the bottom lift slightly and hear the pump start to strain, I stop. Same idea when extending. More than that is not required and exerts undue pressure on the hoses, seals and fittings.

For the Generator and engine door, the sound of the unit going home or pump going into bypass is enough to make me stop the pump.

As for air; it will normally clear simply by using the system. Seldom is it required to force it out by sending it through the pressure relief/bypass circuit/valve.

However, running the system while the fluid is very low will create an entirely different set of problems and subsequent purging may require forced actuation of the pressure relief/bypass cicuit/valve.

Survival Law: Never operate the system unless you are absolutely certain there is adequate fluid in the reservoir.
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