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Old 03-01-2014, 03:45 PM   #15
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Before cutting the access hole (see below), I decided to order a new solenoid valve and some extra seal kits from HWH. I wanted a spare valve anyway, so I figured if I was able to repair the old valve I could use the new valve as the spare, and if not, I would have the new valve to fix the problem and I could send the old valve in to be rebuilt.
Unfortunately, HWH sent me the wrong seal kit, so it took a total of 2 weeks to get all the parts. After I cut the access hole, I removed the valve and did a visual inspection. The seals looked good and the needle valve appeared to be seated. But, if the seal between the 2 sides of the valve was leaking, it would cause the problem I was having, and it was an easy fix. So, I decided to replace the seals and reinstall the valve to see if it still leaked. It did. I removed the valve again and removed the valve seat. There was no corrosion or dirt on the needle or the seat, so I decided to follow Engineer Mike’s suggestion and tighten the seat. I don’t know how tight the seat should be against the needle, so I tried a quarter turn tighter, and then retightened the lock nut. I reinstalled the valve, and the problem appears to be gone (thanks Mike).
I also tried the new valve to make sure that it works, and it appears to solve the problem as well (as expected). So now I have my spare valve.
I think I will wait to put everything back together. If anyone knows the proper procedure to adjust the valve seat, please let me know. I feel a little uneasy just tightening it a quarter turn, even though it appears to have fixed the problem.
The HWH part number for the valve is RAP0642 (replaces RAP8034) and the seal kit is R7430 (seals for 8 valves and some other unknown seals). The valve was $222.00 and the seals kit was $16.20. The valve comes unpainted. So I painted it to keep in from rusting. You would think for $222 HWH could afford a little paint!

Dave Morgan
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Old 03-01-2014, 03:53 PM   #16
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I decided to follow John’s lead and cut an access hole in the back of the right wheel well. I cut a 10” x 10” opening using a 4” cut-off wheel on my angle grinder and then finished the job with a metal cutting blade on my jig saw. As you can see from the pictures, the back side of the pump is obstructed by lots of hoses and cables. Access without the hole would be very difficult at best. Even with the access hole, it takes a reasonable amount of effort to remove the solenoid valves. Fortunately, the one I had to remove was the one closest to the opening.
In order to close the opening and make future access as easy as possible, I built a 12” x 12” opening cover and a 12” x 16” “nut-keeper” for the opposite side of the opening. The nut-keeper bolts to the inside of the pump compartment and makes it easy to attach and remove the access hole cover.
The cover is made of 2 thicknesses of 14 gage galvanized sheet metal (that’s what I had on-hand) and attached to the wheel well with 8 - 3/8” bolts.
Dave Morgan


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Old 03-02-2014, 10:01 AM   #17
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Thanks for the pictures Dave, I am going to use a combination of yours and John's, as I am going through the same process except I have a fluid leak and can't see where it is coming from inside the black hole. (I just got new glasses too)

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Old 03-02-2014, 10:18 AM   #18
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the new valve is nickel plated. the new jack rods are also nickel plated. thats why they are unpainted.
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Old 03-02-2014, 02:45 PM   #19
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Other than having the jacks and slides retracted. what is the procedure for changing out the hydraulic solenoid valve? I've herd it's a 5 min.job but sometimes I can screw things up a little quicker than that.
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Old 03-02-2014, 03:08 PM   #20
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Make sure you back off the solenoid valve so there is no pressure in the system.
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:46 PM   #21
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I believe the needle valve seating is simply the solenoid spring pushing the needle against the orifice. So if the aluminum orifice wears, or the spring has lost a little strength, you could have leakage at the needle seat. I turn the aluminum nose piece w/the orifice till it contacts the pressure of the spring, then another bit to snug it. No precise science to it. If it seats then life is good. Be careful not to wrench down too tight on the panel nut that locks the nose piece onto the valve body, the nose piece threads are aluminum while the panel nut is stainless.
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Old 03-02-2014, 07:08 PM   #22
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Looks like I spoke too soon. After leaving my RR jack extended over night, I noticed that it has retracted a small amount. It appears that tightening the valve seat slowed the leak but did not fix it. As Mike suggests, I suspect that the old valve has a worn seat or a weak solenoid spring. I reinstalled the new valve this morning and after 8 hours it is holding at full extension. I will check it again tomorrow before putting everything back together.

So now I need to purchase another new valve or rebuild the old one, if I want to carry a spare. If I remember, HWH quoted me $150 plus 2 way shipping to rebuild my old valve. That’s almost as much as a new valve. Does anyone know a less expensive source for used, rebuilt or new valves?

Thanks, Dave Morgan
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:41 PM   #23
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When i had the valve plugs made, the threads were diagnosed as some proprietary oddity, & HWH makes these in house.
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:46 PM   #24
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I had this happen with our MH. L/F would go down, then in a day or so it would leak back somehow. Took it to a workhorse place, he replaced that valve, as he said it was leaking back thru, back to the reservoir. Works good now.

Al, Michigan.
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:56 PM   #25
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Looks like I have a solenoid to replace too. Only 4 year old. The quick fix is to level the coach and then prop up the jack with a block of wood (between the frame and the foot). I have several lengths cut for precise leveling.
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Old 03-03-2014, 01:48 PM   #26
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the 0nly fairly good news is that the reman valve from hwh comes with a one year parts and labor warranty. you may find a cheaper one on ebay, but what is the warranty?
btw, all reman parts carry the same warranty as new parts.
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