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Old 04-25-2019, 01:16 PM   #1
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Hwh leveling jacks

Has anyone ever replaced the rear drivers side hydraulic jack line on a 36í FDDS Alpine and if so how long is the line and how difficult is it to replace?
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Old 04-25-2019, 01:39 PM   #2
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….Not on a 36' but on Alpines--yes....HWH is very good about labeling both ends of their hoses...the last 3 digits in a hose part number is how long the hose is in inches....interesting, slides hoses are susceptible to leaking on Alpines but usually not jack hoses??????
PS-- OEM hoses are usually run thru the frame c-channel during build, along with dozens of other hoses and wires....as HWH does on a replacement hose, you have to find an alternate route and allow for some extra hose length to accommodate the new route...
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Old 04-25-2019, 03:03 PM   #3
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Thanks for the response, my swivel is leaking.
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Old 04-25-2019, 04:25 PM   #4
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...did you try a quarter/face turn on the nut to tighten the connection? As a last resort, you can usually tighten them a bit--but not too much, as too tight will distort the internal flare in the connection??????
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:54 PM   #5
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Yes did that too,
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Old 04-26-2019, 09:10 AM   #6
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IF you can find an HWH service facility near by and IF there is room to work around the jack you could have them splice on a section of new hose and a new fitting. If there is enough slack in the line just replace the fitting- no splice required.

Any hydraulic repair facility can do the same job but most will not want to work on a motorhome.



My 1998 Alpine engine door is hydraulically controlled. I had some hoses/fittings made up by Hose Man and replaced them myself. That fixed all but one leaking fitting which would have required replacing a line the full length of the coach.

Safari RV in Redding, Ca is a HWH facility. They made up and installed a short hose with a union and terminal fitting.

Just what I did.
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Old 04-26-2019, 09:42 AM   #7
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there will also be dozens of wire ties. they make it almost impossible to remove the old hose. i often blow out and plug the old hose then leave it in place. reinstall the new one where convenient, being careful to avoid heat sources. protect the hose at wear points and sharp edges. use either commercial wire tubing, or old hose to insulate the hose.
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:43 PM   #8
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Gene,
I was also thinking like you of having a mobile hose guy coming out to my shop if he has a portable hydraulic crimping machine. Providing I can snake out enough line to repair the end. Thanks for your input.
azpete thanks too. I see the twisted spaghetti mess under there with all the ties, and this one is the worst to get at in front of the radiator barely enough room to get to it.
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Old 04-26-2019, 09:19 PM   #9
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….my experience with replacing hydraulic hoses on my 2003 Alpine over the years suggests that replacing the entire hose is probably the best way to go. I have seen "field serviceable" [compression-type] splicing fittings at Northern Tool but ID of HWH hoses is already pretty small to work with. WRV had some issues with "faulty" hoses in 2002-2003, perhaps a bit earlier. I have replace 2-3 hoses and HWH has done one for me--all slide hoses. Have a replacement "pending" on the vanity slide. Problem seemed to be leakage between the inside layers of the hose and the outside sheaving at the connections. This makes splicing old hoses with new connections problematic at best. So anyway, now I have 4 abandon hoses running front to back. New hoses were rerouted to avoid the c-channel in the frame. Most difficult areas for access to OEM hoses in the c-channel would be the area above the gray/black tanks, beside the water tank, and beside the fuel tank. Even with rerouting, getting thru the rear engine bulkhead is challenging, and the front bulkhead behind the fuel tank is worse.
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