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Old 04-17-2011, 04:30 PM   #1
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Hydraulic Line 2005 MDTS

Hydraulic line to front room extension has developed an aneurism about the size of a dime. wondering if I could cut out area and put a coupling to repair, there is plenty of slack. Don' relish having to pull hydraulic unit to get at connector for that line.
This line is approx. 3/8 in. and hooks into hydraulic cylinder (part # AP14101)
to front slide. Have contacted HWH however no answer yet. thanks, larry
fultmer@yahoo.com
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:09 PM   #2
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Do a search on this forum concerning replacement and "field installed" connections. There are some options to replacing the entire hose....Hose location and pump connections vary but doesnt the 05 have an access panel between the basement and the pump compartment? Generally speaking, the front room hoses are the shortest run/easiest to replace. Special procedures are required to re-balance the ram equalizer tube once hose[s] are replaced....
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:00 PM   #3
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I think the best way to tell if you can do a repair like that is to know what psi is going through the hose first. If you don't know that for sure then maybe there is is some kind of layline on the hose that will tell you what its rated at. If that fails then determine what kind of rienfocement is in the hose, do that by looking at the hole, if you can see a cotton like material then it's a low pressure hose probably rated under 400 psi and a great fix is to just cut the bad part out and use a brass hosemender with a couple of wormgear clamps. If the hose has a steel inner braid then do not try the above fix as that is not capable of withstanding the pressure that is probably going through the hose. complete replacement is the only way to go for that.
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Old 04-18-2011, 12:06 AM   #4
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Go to a hydraulic shop and buy a couple of field replaceable fittings and a steal union. Brass will not hold up to the pressure. I repaired my jack hose with one this spring.

Finally got leaky jack fixed
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Old 04-18-2011, 01:42 AM   #5
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with all due respect wayne, a brass hosemender is just fine for hoses under 400 psi. field attachable fittings are not the proper repair for for a hose with a fabric inner braid chances are high it will leak. your jack hose has 1 if not 2 layers of steel braid in it with most likley crimp on fittings. If thats true that you put on field attchable fittings did you make sure they were designed for either 1 wire or 2 wire?... Look, if it was my coach I would want to fix it the right way. Im new to this forum, and just trying to help, hyd hoses just happen to be my language. Ive been building them for 12 years now between caterpillar and another company and in those years i've seen it too many times people trying to repair hoses with the wrong parts. (Would you put chevy parts on a ford)? It usually just causes more leaks and damage.
Just find out what kind of hose your dealing with first and then explore what type of repair is needed.
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:13 AM   #6
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Optimusprime, No problem. What I do know is the field attachable fitting I used cured a leak 5 year old leak that had been worked on 3 times by by pros including 2 trips to the HWH factory and 3 jack replacements and one crimp on fitting.

When I fixed my leak, I 1st used a brass fitting on top of the jack. After about 2 hours under pressure the brass fitting would start to leak. I replaced it with a steal fitting and it has been holding for 2 months now. In the link I provided there is a picture of my installed fitting. I intentionally made my repair in an easily accessible area so I could keep an eye on it. The tech at Hufco where I purchased the fitting seemed to think it was the right fitting for the hose. At the time my research indicated I used the right fitting for the type of hose installed on my coach.

Take a look at the picture and let me know what you think.
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Old 04-18-2011, 06:06 AM   #7
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Our hydraulic system sees pressures around 2000 PSI, if I am to believe the HWH service manual. The Excess slope light comes on when pressure gets to 2000 PSI (triggered by the high pressure switch). I have seen this several times. The hydraulic pump makes a similar sound when the slides come to full open or close and you hold the switch on for a few extra seconds to make sure it is completely in or out. So I suspect the the slide hose are experiencing more than 400 PSI at times. I could be wrong just sharing what I have experienced.

I have never had to deal with a slide hose and they may be a different size and type than the jack hoses. I guess I should go look.
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Old 04-18-2011, 08:18 PM   #8
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1) I don't think there would be any problem w/a field-union for one of these aneurysm's.
2) Wayne is right about pressure regime, you're looking for 4000psi hose material & fittings.
3) when the hose starts to bubble, you may experience several bubbles in the neighborhood of the first one. I think the basic hose material inside fails, then the slick plastic outer skin retains fluid till an area reaches its elastic limit & out pops a zit. If the bubble is near an end, I'd be inclined to cut out the whole end section & have a new one made, take care to lose as little fluid as possible (pre-fill new hose section), etc. so as not to leave small sections of suspect hose in play. No guarantee you won't get another in the opposite direction, but at least you've got all new for the short end.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Optimusprime View Post
....Would you put chevy parts on a ford?....
Heck! I wouldn't put Chevy parts on a Chevy! Why would I throw good money after bad?!?

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Old 04-19-2011, 12:45 PM   #10
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After having been through the hyd. hose problems front and wardrobe slides. I have had hoses repaired and replaced by places that claim to have proper equipment. The only ones that have heldup are from HWH. I replaced the hoses for the ram that is in the front basement area myself. Not all the difficult. I had to detach the pump assembly to move it enough to get at the hose fitting on the pump.
Good Luck
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