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Old 01-10-2007, 08:33 PM   #29
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Wayne

I called Vehicle Systems and they told me to make the mixture at 1:1, the techs name was Caesar. I specifically called him and asked because of the imformation that some people said 2:1 and some 3:1. And when you say 3:1 is that 3 antifreeze to 1 water?
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Old 01-11-2007, 06:49 AM   #30
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Alpine4us, I miss stated my response, 2:1 is appropriate, I added a gallon of anti freeze and finished off with Vagabond water.

From the Hydro Hot installation manual;

3.25 Bleeding the Interior / Fresh Water Tank Heating System
NOTES:
A. It is recommended to use either an Ethylene-Gylcol or Propylene-
Gylcol based Antifreeze for all Hydro-Hot installations.
B. Be sure to remove the Hydro-Hot's "Access Cover" before beginning
this procedure, see Figure 2.
1. Remove the Hydro-Hot's Pressure Cap and completely fill the Heat Tank
by pouring in 4 Gallons of a 2/3-thirds Water and 1/3-third Antifreeze
Solution, see Figure 2.

Being a full timer freeze point is not that critical, efficient heat transfer is the main issue. My system does not need to prevent freezing down to -32 degrees since i have no plans on being a popsicle. My system is on 24/7.
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Old 01-11-2007, 12:07 PM   #31
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I have started to investigate what it would take to set the electric to come on about 5-10 degrees before the diesel side comes on. I use both diesel and electric when tied to shore power. There is no reason in my minds eye for the diesel to come on until the electric can't keep up. Example is no heat on at night and the diesel side fires about once an hour.
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Old 09-08-2007, 10:38 AM   #32
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Our hydro-hot zone lines were 'cross-plumbed' and it took a lot of time to figure out why the front control ran the rear zone and the rear control vice-versa. Rather than fooling with the plumbing I just reversed the wiring at the terminals. We don't like the H-H and use portable electric heaters (2) whenever possible. Th primary reasons because of the system exhaust SMELL and the noise (for us and our neighbor)! We are wondering if there is any way at all to switch to propane heat (same compartment) and then we could donate the H-H system to some needy sole....
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Old 09-08-2007, 03:17 PM   #33
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We have three friends that had their hydro hot leaking.
All were 500K MH's
chevman
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Old 09-08-2007, 05:45 PM   #34
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Wayne Routhier:
I have started to investigate what it would take to set the electric to come on about 5-10 degrees before the diesel side comes on. I use both diesel and electric when tied to shore power. There is no reason in my minds eye for the diesel to come on until the electric can't keep up. Example is no heat on at night and the diesel side fires about once an hour. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I've thought about that too, Wayne. Let me know what you find out. In my case I keep the electric on when it's cool and the Bus is parked in my driveway. Sometimes it dips down a few degrees too many and the electric can't keep up. THEN, I'd like the diesel to kick in as a two stage system - just like you are thinking of. So far the only thing I can come up with is a separate switch to fire the diesel burner in a staged mode. This switch would be fed 12 volts from a second thermostat that would be set at a slightly lower temperature than the main thermostat. But, it would be nice if a second temperature probe could be inserted into the HydroHot tank instead, and set to a lower temp. That wopuld be a more accurate way to create a two stage system. And yet, if the new rocker switch wasn't turned on, it would be just as the system was originally designed. I guess the key question is "can you install a second temp sensor in the tank?". If so, I'm sure you could find one with a different temp setting.
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Old 09-09-2007, 10:59 PM   #35
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I would like to throw my two cents worth and slightly derail this conversation. I was under my coach today and noticed that the PEX tubing running to the HH in the front console is not insilated. That tubing passes through the generator compartment and is exposed to direct outside air. I was thinking I should get some foam pipe insulation at Home Depot or Lowes and insulate that tubing, reducing heat loss before it gets to the distrubution box, thus reducing the run time on the HH and of course less diesel consumption. And I guess the rest of the hot water distribution within the coach is not insulated, so this would apply there also. Anyone looked into this?
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Old 09-14-2007, 03:37 PM   #36
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For those that are not happy with the diesel problems with the hydrohot unit take a look at this propane model.

www.precisiontemp.com/pt_rvmd_twintemp2.html
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Old 11-07-2007, 10:11 PM   #37
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Hey Wayne... You seem to have a lot of experience with it. What if anything, besides the fittings, would you have changed if you had your way?
Examples:
Diesel vs Propane
Additional Electric element
Pex vs copper or PVC

I'm considering HydroHot, but am starting to think on TwinTemp-2, because of some folks complaining of the noise and smell. Since I don't have experience in either, I'd like to know your thoughts.

And yes, this is Ken from the Big B. Check your Private messages and give me a shout. Love to chat at ya!
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Old 07-01-2008, 06:20 PM   #38
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Although this thread is old, do any of these issues still exist? The stir pump seems to be the culprit for mine, and I have warranty work scheduled on the 9th. However, if the fittings are still plastic, I am going to stock up on the coolant (there is antifreeze and coolant - one has been thined to be added directly to expansion tank-which I have purchased) drain the system and fix those fittings I can access, so I don't have this issue down the road, when we are in Alaska next year.

Your opinions please.
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Old 08-29-2008, 05:30 PM   #39
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Cruzer:
Its like finding an old friend. I have been working in Alaska all summer and my wife and MH are in MI. She has had to have the Hydro hot thermestat replaced, and then it quit again, and the float valve was missing a part. We think the stir pump may be going. Other than the copper replacement for the plastic is there anything else that is likely to go bad? We had the Hurricane system and it needed everything replaced around 2000 hours, brushes in the circulating pump, fuel pump, combustion chamber and some other small parts. I am thinking this one is going to be the same way. Thanks for any help
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:21 PM   #40
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Wayne R:
I just replaced the stir pump on my Hydro Hot 2 weeks after the 2 year warranty was up. There are 4 rigs in our park that have had leaks around the 2 year mark. 2 were stir pumps with the outlet port cracked where the hose attaches and 2 were the pex fitting for the drain. All these rigs were owned by full timers. I suspect using the units 24/7 for about 2 years is causing the plastic to get brittle and crack from heat, the stir pump is not cheap $179. By the way one of the units was an Aqua Hot.

I talked to tech support but they were not aware of any issues, I find that hard to believe since there are 4 rigs in our small park with the problem. I suspect casual user will go years with out having a problem. I plan on changing the drain valve and associated plumbing with brass probably less than $10 worth of parts at Lowes. Not and economical mod until there is a need to drain the unit or a leak develops. The anti freeze is $19 a gallon and hard to find. Tech told me to mix it 2/1 the service manual says 3/1?? The unit takes around 4 ˝ gallons. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:23 PM   #41
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Hello All,
The straight boiler concentrate by the quart is 8 bucks here in Vancouver, WA at RV Pro, Inc. Google it! Tech checked the freeze point and said it was around +15F degrees and the optimum are -20 degrees. He said that makes for optiumu heat transfer, too much boiler concentration and the heat transfer goes up and the effenciency is reduced. So he said just drain out what is in the overflow tank, fill up the overflow tank with straight boiler fluid to the middle between hot-cold lines and it will take in and mix that with what is in there and all will be good.

When I had mine worked on earlier this year, the tech checked the drain, and it's metal, so the factory must have changed it. Mine has a bad mixing valve which will get changed this spring-coach is in hibernation now. But we don’t have the noise some here are commenting on, yes we can hear it, but nothing like the old propane furnace we had in the 5th wheel, which seemed to run all the time in cold weather. The tech told me that some of the noise was that the burner electrodes were not adjusted correctly and that causes it to be louder. Download and read the shop manual, installation and repair manuals before working on it.

A word of caution, the little ears that hold the bolts of the burner chamber can be broken off if you tighten them up to much, follow the manufacturer’s suggestion on the tightening of those bolts, because if you break of the ears, you are looking a serious money to have repaired.
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Old 12-31-2008, 07:13 AM   #42
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Has anyone had to replace their raditor style cap on top of their Hydro Hot yet? If so, what is the brand,cat #, and where was it purchased. I have replaced the fuel nozzle and the plastic drain that was factory installed but not the radiator cap. We are fulltimers and it gets alot of use.

Thanks Larry

2004
40MD
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