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Old 07-03-2011, 11:08 AM   #15
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Wil, I have been doing a lot of looking but as yet have not done much. I have located the solenoid you are referring to and will definitely take a closer look.
With your bad solenoid did you have any starting problems or just accessories problems, mirror, radio, alarms not operating?

Airtool, thanks for the pictures but mine only has four wires coming from the switch. How did you unscrew the front piece that holds the switch to the dash? My wiring harness comes straight out of a larger harness and is not a "plug and play" as yours is.
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Old 07-03-2011, 11:55 AM   #16
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Good tip on the megaton keychain assemblies. Guess I'll lose the rabbit's foot, Kewpie doll, toy tool box, and the Lake Havasu City manhole cover w/the pretty casting of the London Bridge on it. That's probably too many things exerting undue pressure on my switch.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmfryer View Post
Wil, I have been doing a lot of looking but as yet have not done much. I have located the solenoid you are referring to and will definitely take a closer look.
With your bad solenoid did you have any starting problems or just accessories problems, mirror, radio, alarms not operating?
I'm an industrial electrician by trade and work on vehicle electrical problems for friends, family and neighbors. Without your specific units' wiring diagrams anything more would just be a shot in the dark. Make sure the large lead connections are clean and tight, Check over the smaller wire connections as well. If they are just slide on connections, you could gently squeeze the inner side of that connection with needle nose pliers to tighten them. Applying a dielectric grease or even a little clean axle grease will keep air and thereby oxidation out of them.
These are just generic troubleshooting guidelines and maintenance procedures I use for most any vehicle. My daughter had starting problems and some other intermittent problems the other night and I told her what she described was a bad/loose connection before I even opened the hood. (She does some of her own work on cars, too!) The battery connection to the starter was loose causing both symptoms. When I tightened the connection I found the whole top of that solenoid was loose making it bad and it had to be changed.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:41 PM   #18
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Good tip on the megaton keychain assemblies. Guess I'll lose the rabbit's foot, Kewpie doll, toy tool box, and the Lake Havasu City manhole cover w/the pretty casting of the London Bridge on it. That's probably too many things exerting undue pressure on my switch.
Those multi-tools ARE hard on those ignition switches. LOL!! I've had a few old vehicles that about ANY key that fit would start them...
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Old 07-04-2011, 12:22 AM   #19
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Gmfryer! By inserting a pin type tool into the small hole in the cylinder with the cylinder in the proper location(Man I wish I cold remember if it was off or in the run location) I will take a look in the AM and let you know the proper orientation of the switch to depress the locking pin.
When the cylinder is removed the threaded sections will come apart.
NAPA has a whole series of this stile switch and like you mentioned not all units use the same switch.
The best way is to remove it and compare. The number listed should get you into the proper series switch.

Dick.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:00 PM   #20
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On my '96 Safari, the ign sw is a '72 Chev C/K P/U. To remove, place sw in accy position. Using the special pin depression tool (paper clip) push pin down and turn key a little further CCW till it releases and pull lock tumbler out. Unscrew bezel, remove switch. NAPA #KS6603

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Old 07-11-2011, 07:36 PM   #21
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Greg, I don't remember, but it may have primarily been the accessory loads.
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:10 PM   #22
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Red face Engine Maintenence Light on

Have a similar area of concern on this "new to me" coach--2003 36'. When the diesel is below 1/4, and it is the start of a new day--twice on the way back from the purchase in Mesa--after all the lights come on, the "check engine light" would stay on. After turning off again, then starting, or shortly after getting the tank filled (same morning) it then stayed off.

This did happen two separate days on the three day trip back to Portland. I took it for some minor repairs today, and it came on after I stopped engine at the shop, then started it to level the coach.

Seems strange. This time, the diesel was above 1/4. Probably no relationship to the fuel, but had to mention it, as that seemed the only thing that changed, to make light go off. Suggestions? DrHK
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Old 07-12-2011, 02:33 AM   #23
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Dr.Hk. The check engine light comes on about the same way on my Bounder.
It goes out as soon as the coach moves about 5 to 10 feet. ECM likes to see the signal from the speedometer and it happens intermittently.
Question ?? What chassis is your unit built on.
Thinking there might be a fuel filter or a lift pump issue popping up.
Might be a good idea to have the fuel pressure checked.

Dick.
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Old 07-12-2011, 08:02 AM   #24
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An "intermittent" Check Engine light is pretty hard to track down. Cummins could check the stored fault codes on the ECM but not all check engine lights result/create traceable fault codes in the ECM. Could be a fuel pressure issue or it could be elevated exhaust manifold temps--these momentary higher temps occur on older Alpines [like our 03s] when you first start up because the manual fan controller doesnt activate until the radiator has warmed up. For peace of mind, you can have Cummins check the ECM fault codes but its probably a "non-problem."
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:44 PM   #25
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The Check engine light comes on ,but no codes stored in the ECM. Tried to read it using the toggle switches to see if it would flash a code and it also does not show up on the the service field of the VSMpc software.
Interesting little problem,just hope it does not cause a shutdown when on a long road trip, but looking at the bright side then I would know what was causing it to light the check engine circuit. Just let it drift 5ft. down the driveway and out it goes.
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:52 PM   #26
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Regarding the ignition switch.I had a Castle relay fail on mine,that little relay was located close to the starter and connected the high current circuit to the starter solenoid when the key was turned. Got around that with a jumper cable across the heavy contacts with the key on. Its a strange feeling to have that big thing start when you are under the engine. OH BOY!!!
The ignition switch failed about 18 months later.

Dick.
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