Ignition Switch

[gmfryer]

I believe my ignition switch in my '99 Alpine is starting to go bad. Every once in awhile when I turn the key to either Start or the On position to do some function, nothing will happen I will turn the key OFF and then repeat the process and the function will work. So suspect the switch is wearing out. Anyone had any experiences with changing them out, I would hate to get myself stranded by tinkering with it before I know the proper procedures to remove it. It looks like an old Chevrolet switch (key does anyway).

Thanks for any info.

[Dave Fernandez]

Greg many of the Larger Truck parts house should have replacement ignition switches. NAPA Truck and Auto parts house may have them. Pull your switch so they can match the plug with the replacement switch. Most ignition switches in the dash are easy to remove as the outside bezel will twist off or push the switch and bezel towards each other and twist the bezel off. Once the switch is removed just unplug the wire plug and take to a parts house so they can match.

I have had a problem that occurs once in a great while where I will lose power to the engine while driving down the road. When I lose power it is only for a second or two and power is restored. The Silverleaf shows that the ECM lost power. I have had the Alpine checked several times and no one has found the cause put have suggested that it could be the ignition switch.

Every time I am working on the Coach I look at the ignition switch and say I have to change it but I keep placing it on the bottom of the list because it only gives me a problem once in a great while and I have not gotten to it in 10 years. Well hopefully this year!

I hope this helps.

[Old Scout]

Could also be one of the ignition solenoids--guess you might could check to see if the out-going posts on the switch are being energized the next time it happens.

[gatorv]

My 2000 looks like a GM switch too.
Be sure to check the wires and connectors for problems where it plugs into the switch.
Don't forget to shut the batteries off.
Good luck

[EngineerMike]

If you can't find it at a Chevy dealer (most guys in parts dept's these days can't find anything if their computer can't find it by make/model/year), take the switch to a place that sells tractors, or take it into a Freightliner or similar truck joint.

Also IIWMI'd label each of the wires w/some tape or other clever method to make sure everything gets back where it should on reassembly.

[gmfryer]

Thanks guys! When I get to a larger town I will see about removing it and remembering to turn off the batteries and to make sure I have labeled everything.

I know the solenoids are working properly because I hear/feel them energize.
BUT, I did not meter them so guess I better do that also.

Thanks to all.

[Dale777]

gmfryer,

On my previous 2001 Alpine Coach, the connector on the back side (under the dash) of the ignition switch came partially loose causing intermittent symptoms like yours. I fixed it by using a plastic cable-tie to hold the ignition switch and wire loom tightly together. This is worth checking.

[Wil Rathke]

I had a '99 and had to replace the accessory solenoid in the compartment under the dash and in front of the passenger seat. I could hear and feel it operate but the contacts were pitted and it would not switch enough current.

[takepride]

Somewhere along the line, I was told the ignition switch is from a tractor. The key is, according to my locksmith.

[Airtool]

This Switch is available at Napa.. Part Number KS6603
They also have a pigtail that replaces the connector to the Sw.
They get hot and melt at times.
I have a number of pictures,but have no idea how to post them,will put 1 or two hear so all can take a look at the one use in my unit.
There are two challenging points,one is releasing the key cylinder and the other is removing the wire harness from the switch assembly.
Hope this helps

Dick.

[Airtool]

Picture of the SW.and harness assembly.

Dick

[takepride]

Airtool:

I see that your connector looks melted. Are you still in a Bounder? Does it have the Workhorse chassis-related problem where Fleetwood overloaded the ignition switch, causing that melting?

Though our dash assemblies look different, I imagine the rest of the parts are similar, though quite possibly from another manufacturer.

Fortunately WRV was smart enough to make ignition-switched connections at a separate block. With all the things attached to mine, a standard ignition switch setup would have probably burst into flames.

[Airtool]

Takepride,still getting around in the Bounder. The Domestic Engineer is happy so you know I'm happy.
This one is on the Freightliner Chassis. ISB 275 De rated with the Bosh 44 injector pump. I like the 11+mpg on the road for is size and its very plain and simple.
Dick.

[Nuge]

When troubleshooting electrical problems, ALWAYS check your connections and wiring; the more exposed the connection is, the more suspect it is. I would start with the solenoid control wire connections first; some of them just slide on and can get loose causing intermittent problems. Make sure all connections are tight and corrosion free. Another thing - Lose the big heavy key chains. All that extra weight hanging from your ignition switch can wear it out. I use an aluminum carabiner to hold all my RV keys together and only take the ignition key off when driving.