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Old 07-13-2017, 01:38 PM   #1
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Inspecting 2008 36MDDS for Possible Issues?

There was a good thread started by c_oneil back in January when he was looking at his 2005 36FDTS on what to look for and I will make good use of that one as much of the material will apply. Thank you to those that provided info. I am wondering if there are any things to watch for peculiar to a 2008 36MDDS that can be shared. I am going to check one out and any pointers would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance - anything to help a newbie would be much appreciated.
#hopingtobanAlpiner
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Old 07-13-2017, 03:45 PM   #2
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Don't recall the initial discussion on the 05 but on the 08, I would look at: 1] the steering gear box bracket having fatigue cracks [bracket upgrade]; and 2] the general issue with the first batch of Cummins EGR engines [coolant leaks from EGR into exhaust].
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Old 07-13-2017, 07:03 PM   #3
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If it has the isl400 check the serial numbers for wrist pin issues.
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Old 07-13-2017, 07:09 PM   #4
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Nope--wrist pins were a circa 2006 issue.....
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:21 PM   #5
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Depending on your level of experience with motorhomes, particularly WRV, it would be wise to either have an experienced owner inspect the coach with you or better yet, have the coach inspected at a knowledgeable RV service center. A thorough inspection will take 4-6 hours at about $100/hr. Everything will be checked and tested. Look at a pre-purchase inspection list and imagine actually checking everything.

I would say service records and owner history are top priorities. I researched everything I could on Alpines for six months and spent over three months looking at a half dozen coaches before finding the right one. We even looked at the coach, last December, that c_oneil purchased. At that time, even to my relatively inexperienced eyes, it required more work than we were willing to do or pay to have done.

Dealers almost never have service records but will promise that everything has been taken care of. Oil, lube and filter, fuel filters, transmission fluid, generater service, coolant and brake fluid will cost well over a thousand dollars. Are you willing to accept a dealers or owners word without a receipt?

Shocks, tires, alignment, steering bracket upgrade and batteries could separate you from ten grand in short order. Not to mention having the coach in the shop all the time. Refrigerator, A/C, inverter and other mysterious electronic gadgets are costly as well.

It is fairly easy to weed out neglected coaches from one's that have been loved. It is difficult to determine if all the components and systems work properly after a short drive and a walk around.

No service records are a strong signal to walk away. Records and a clean looking, well cared for coach would be reason to proceed to the inspection process. Purchase price should be contingent on the results of the inspection. It is my belief that most coaches listed for sale are overpriced, which is why they have been on the market so long. Some have been listed for over a year.

That said, we truly enjoy our Alpine.

Best of luck.
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Old 07-14-2017, 06:08 PM   #6
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When I inspected mine I followed all the advice given on IRV2 (except getting DW's blessing before making and offer) and it helped me identify some things and negotiate the price a bit. It was my third RV but first diesel so I had a little experience but without having an RV technician and a Diesel technician assisting it is pretty hard to know exactly what you are buying. Service records are great but even good condition RV's don't always come with good records. If you aren't willing to pay your money and take a chance then consider a buying a service contract. And when you do finally purchase an Alpine considre joining the ACA.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:51 PM   #7
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Indeed it is a challenge to know what you are buying when shopping for a coach 10 or more years old. It becomes difficult to impossible without maintenance records. Impossible to know if or when regular service was performed. Difficult to determine if damage may have occurred due to negligence. Hence the reason for a professional inspection or at the very least a qualified person willing to get dirty checking and testing as many components as possible.

This forum has owners who have owned Alpines for 15 plus years and still do not know everything about their coaches, let alone all the details of every coach WRV produced. Would anyone buy a house without a home inspection? Motorhomes have the combimed complexities of a house and a motor vehicle. Think of it as buying a $100,000 used car from a used car dealer. Protect yourself as much as possible by learning everything you can about the coach.

Extended Service Plans cover items that fail, windshield coverage is extra. They do not cover routine maintenance and wear and tear items.

There will be plenty of expenses even with a meticulously maintained coach. Try to eliminate as many unnecessary ones before jumping in.
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Old 07-14-2017, 10:37 PM   #8
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Look for lose tile, because of flex hose under sink leak. water also took out my Xantex and hydro hot panel board! Still like the coach.
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Old 07-17-2017, 11:26 AM   #9
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Rowdy Joe
We just bought a 2008 36 MSSD, after the water incident, did you do anything to prevent this happening again? Any kind of a shield. We live in Monroe, any repair places you recommend? Can you recommend a place to have our brake lines blown out?
Thanks
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:58 PM   #10
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Brake lines "blown out"???????????
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Old 07-18-2017, 08:01 AM   #11
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I have been told that when the flex pipe for the kitchen sink drain leaks the water will drip down onto the hydro hot and the inverter. Wet electronics is bad. I don't know if all models have the inverter located in an at risk location or not. Mine doesn't look to bad to me but to be safe I found a plastic tray for a dish drainer rack and use it as a waterproof roof for my inverter. It is held in place with zip ties. I try to keep an eye on the floor under the sink and cabinets to make sure it is dry too.
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Old 07-18-2017, 12:58 PM   #12
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Old Scout, brake fluid changed and lines "blown" out. We have experienced "jelly" in our brake lines.
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Old 07-18-2017, 01:43 PM   #13
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Other posts on this forum have discussed proper brake fluid change and line purging. That involves cleaning all old fluid out of master cylinder, refilling with clean fluid then using a suction pump device available from auto parts stores starting at right rear bleeder valve, then left rear, then right front, and finally left front, taking care to add more clean fluid at the master cylinder as it is used up in the process. I understand this takes several quarts of new brake fluid to complete the task. Good luck.
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Old 07-18-2017, 04:50 PM   #14
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Two points: 1--never heard of using air pressure to blow-out lines?????? [ref c. oneil's explanation for system flush procedures]; and 2--the "jelly" often referred to by owners is simply a silicone material used by the master cylinder manufacturer during the production and pre-shipping process.....once M/C is installed, any excess silicone usually collects on top of the fluid in the M/C reservoir--not a big deal in terms of impact on brake system performance. Easy to remove from surface once noticed...
PS--complete wheels-off brake flush requires about 3 qrts of DOT3....
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