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Old 05-20-2012, 10:49 AM   #1
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kitchen sink drain leaking onto hydrohot

I have a lead from the drain of the kitchen sink in my 08 34'er which is dripping on the top of the hydro hot.. I have gotten way back under and do not see any leak from inside the cabinets after removing some paneling, etc. now I guess the next step is to chip away the black goop wrv put in the hole that the lines come thru, this is looking up above the hydro hot.. I now have a pan catching the water.. do not seem to get any from the bath or shower.. anyone have this problem before and did you have to go up from below to find it? Mel
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Old 05-20-2012, 05:28 PM   #2
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This sounds kind of like a problem that we had although ours was in a 40' so the water wasn't over the Hydrohot in ours. We noticed water when it started leaking out of the coach over our back compartment on the driver's side. We couldn't get to it from underneath and had to take some cabinet drawers out between the kitchen sink and the slide wall towards the bathroom. It turned out that the main drain pipe from the kitchen had snapped off where it goes into the drain pipe prior to the shower drain. The movement of the slide in and out with the pipe becoming brittle probably caused that.

It was a real "bear" to fix as it was extremely difficult to get to. You need to look from the top down and it was a white spa type pipe on ours. If that turns out to be the case, feel free to call the ACA Helpline number as I am on call at the moment and my husband can talk you through the repair he made.

Hope this helps!
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:42 PM   #3
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I got a 3' length of pool vacuum hose and intend to replace the stiff spa hose. Any hints?
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:24 PM   #4
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Engineer Mike has a solution to this problem, and he has either posted it on the ACA Tech Library or he can describe what needs to be done here. It takes a new piece of hose, which is not as stiff as the part WRV used, and a couple more little things which make it way easier and better than the OEM installation. I still have this little job to do once we get the coach back. Everyone who has the kitchen slide, needs to be proactive on this repair, as it can brake the "Y" connector, which leads to a much bigger problem down the road. It's not easy in the slightest to get to the ABS drain pipe from below to replace that Y, so doing it now before it breaks would be better. The information also might be in a different post which can be searched herein, I would use "plumbing drain" or something like that.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:14 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick J Fisher View Post
I got a 3' length of pool vacuum hose and intend to replace the stiff spa hose. Any hints?
Rick, that is what I did quite a few years ago. Take the old stuff off and put the new one on.
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:07 AM   #6
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I am going to be at Bobby's Kustom Coach Works and talk to him in July as I think the hose is under the cabinet that the waste basket is in and may need to get in thru there? more of a job than I want to tackle..will wait for E Mike to reply..had sent him and email but no ans yet. his rig is about the same as mine..thanks to all . Mel
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:24 PM   #7
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Sink plumbing drops down to the space under the waste basket (or water heater in non-HHot units), where it lands in a short 90 in the far back outside rear corner of the slide, just above the slide floor. From the 90, WRV ran "spa" pipe, a not very but somewhat flexible PVC pipe, through a long sweep to exit the slide. The long sweep is all there is to allow flex in the waste plumbing as it exits the slide.
If you lift the bottom of the black rubber flap between the slide and the stationary "pantry" doors that get covered when the slide is in, you will see the end of the spa pipe where it enters a short 90 ABS fitting that drops thru the coach floor to the basement. There is a black rubber diameter change fitting over the spa tubing and over the outside diameter of the 90, with hose clamps on both ends.
You can probably trim the bottom 8" or so of black rubber sheet off the slide "trim" flap and lose nothing to aestehtics, while gaining good view of this fitting when you go looking for it.

On mine, the spa piping was getting pinched by the slide closure action (and by the slide opening action at the other extreme). The hose clamp fitting & the spa piping inside pulled loose from the 90 thru the floor. Water leaked onto the Xantrex in accordance with gravity, which happened to be operational that day.

I pulled out the drawers & HHot radiator that faces the fridge (didn't disconnect it, just unfastened it & pried it up a bit out of the way), pulled the thin panel lower left of sink cabinet, all to get access to the spa piping. I removed ~24" of the spa piping and replaced with same outside diameter tubing, same length (exact length seemed important to operation without unnecessarily pulling on the fittings). Replacement tubing (looks like this stuff, and comes on a roll so you buy however much you need) is much more flexible swimming pool vacuum tube, ~2"o.d. iirc, but it is spiral exterior; so I filled the spiral gaps w/ 3M-5200 far enough back to exceed the fitting req'mts on each end. I used a straight coupler on the spa tubing splice end, and a new bell joint w/new hose clamps on the other. All parts from H.D. or Lowes except the 5300 which I got from West Marine near me.
Project takes a while as its a beeyatch to get to even on the older models. I repaired Figge's 02 when theirs gave out at the Paso Robles rally last year using same method; the earlier coaches have way better access as you can disassemble some of the cabinetry to actually get in close w/real tools. I had to cut the spa tubing on mine blind, using the saw blade on my Leatherman as access was so tight and anything longer wouldn't get at the pipe and still have room for a sawing stroke.
Here are the parts (I tried silicone sealer in this photo which easily pulled loose and would have leaked, hence the leap to the much better 5200):


On reassembly, I recommend zip tying some "cutting sheets" between the waste piping and other bundled stuff that has to slide/bend when operating the slide. It helps for the odd parts to be able to slide a bit against each other as the bundle of wires, tubing, and hoses flexes. One cutting sheet on the bottom of the whole bundle helps also so the bundle slides easily on the bottom "platform" WRV built up for this spaghetti to rest on.
If you assemble the parts & tools, thereafter you're looking at 4-6 hours for this project depending on coach obstructions.

There is another more drastic problem that may have occurred, that being the 90 degree fitting thru floor may have broken. If that has happened, there will be more major surgery including some serious work under the floor in the ceiling area of the utility bay.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:55 AM   #8
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Thanks a million Mike..wow what a guy..I knew you had had a problem with yours. now to get it fixed ..looks like you needed 2 feet of the flex tubing.. wow, $122.00 a foot but if it works that is ok too... thanks again Mike..Mel
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:46 AM   #9
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Mel- I think that's for a roll. IIRC the price @ H.D. was about $3.5/ft. total parts maybe $35 w/the connectors & 3M-5200.
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:11 AM   #10
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I talked to Bobby at Kustom Coach Works in Junction City, Oregon and he said he could take care of it when I get there on July 2..thanks for the info. Mel
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