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Old 07-31-2014, 07:39 PM   #1
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Thumbs up Leak around front AC

I am trying to fix leak around front AC unit. Seems like a very poor design or previous owner had a leak and then made a mess. My front AC is much closer to the roof than the rear AC. It actually touches the roof in the rear of the unit. The front of the unit has sun dried plastic feet. I bought a new seal, but air horn lines run through it along with drain hoses on each side. Seems like that will always be a place for a leak. The drain hoses come to a "T" and run a single line to the front on the inside of the roof.

What is the best goop to pack around these places that have to go through the seal?

Then if I get it sealed, the ducting on my 2003 is horrible. Has anyone pulled the front ducting down to get front AC off? Possibly this was pulled by previous owner and they had to cut out the ducting. Don't really now, but front AC probably 50% efficient due to how ducting connects to styrofoam channel in ceiling.

After some work, I am sure I will get it back together, ceiling cleaned with leak fixed. But I would like to do something better with the ducting if there are better ways to do it. Most cold air seems to go right back in the return with current setup.
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:29 PM   #2
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Lots of conversation on forum about this. With the evap drain cups, your ac should have two seal rings stacked not just the one [get the stiffer grey type [$25 each] not the cheap white foam ones from CW]. Also good to add some hard rubber blocking ["legs"] outboard from the 14" roof opening to support some of the ac unit weight. Cut the upper seal ring [that contacts the ac unit] for all the cables and wires [caulk openings], then leave the lower seal ring intact that contacts the roof.....Shouldnt have to "goop" anything other than the aforementioned openings on the upper ring....
Ducting is also an issue discussed on the forum--most of us have use the sticky aluminum foil tape to seal the metal diverter duct on the bottom of the ac units to the polyfoam ducts in the ceiling. Might also check ends of ceiling ducts to ensure ends have been blocked [1 in 100 forgot to block the duct ends].
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:10 PM   #3
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This is great information. How thick should I make the rubber feet or will it be obvious once I unseat the AC? Right now it appears like only one gasket or really smashed 2.

I will try to search forum again. I don't seem to get any results or way too many. I found plenty on cleaning the ceiling stains. Which I needed to know as well.

Thanks again Scout!
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:40 AM   #4
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You are going to want to make the "feet" 2/3 to 3/4 the thickness of the stacked ring seals as you still want some weight to compress the seals. Actually the front of the unit is probably ok--its just the back edge that hangs over the seal rings that can sag. Interesting -- if you buy the replacement evap cup kit from Dometic...the kit comes with two rings and some outbound foam blocks of the same material as the rings. However, these blocks tend to get deformed and tilt over from the weight of the unit as you go bouncing down the road. Think the suggested torque for the 4 hold down bolts is 50-60 INCH lbs.....good luck.....
PS--if you do the normal search--think the engine only goes back 6 months or some thing....believe you need to do the Google search or use the advanced option to get more of the history.....
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:38 AM   #5
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JeepPuller - My very first post years ago concerned the leaking I was experiencing just from having the coach in outside storage during the winter (snow melting!?). I had taken the coach to a dealer to fix their new AC cover which had come off during a trip (also a typical problem!) and asked them to check for leaks. They showed me the horn air line and antenna cable running under the gasket which would always allow leakage. I paid them to reroute the 2 - lines across the roof to the front opening (about $600!) and NO MORE LEAKS. You need to reroute those lines to stop the leaks. I don't know what WRV was thinking on this issue!?
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Old 08-01-2014, 05:40 PM   #6
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Put this in the annual maintenance file. Check the bolts that hold down the a/c units each spring or fall when you take the unit out of storage for non full timers. For full timers, do it in the spring before you need the a/c units. Tighten then about 1/4 of a turn with a 1/4 drive ratchet, and you hand should be choked up on the shaft of the ratchet arm close to it's head, that will give you about 10-15 in/lbs., of force, don't reef them down too hard, you can distort that gasket. Check them, and if they won't turn, then you are still good. Those bolts get jiggled when going down the road, so that is why they need to be tightened. WRV did not have mine tight at all when we got the coach, I had quite a bit of ratcheting to get them snug.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:57 AM   #7
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I agree that routing the air horn lines and antennas through the AC seal was a horrible design. Because the evaporative drain system also has to penetrate the AC seal on both sides, I still kept the air horns lines going through the seal. I did stack 2 seals as Scout suggested. The first seal is uncut on to roof of the coach. The second seal on top of the uncut seal has cuts for the evaporative drains cup lines on both sides and another cut for the air horn line. I added 2 rubber feet to the rear of the AC to keep it from causing extra stress of the seal when bouncing and driving down the road. They give extra seal material to hold up rear of AC, but that continues to smash or compress over time. I followed Scouts suggestion and made 2inch x 2inch rubber feat that were about 2/3 of the height of 2 seals together. Them trempro sealant around the cuts in the top seal and everything seems to be sealed at this point.

If this fails and leaks, then I will go back and reroute air horn lines. But I am hoping by stopping the AC from moving around much with harder rubber feet, I will not have leaks again. My fingers are crossed.
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