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Old 12-19-2006, 05:16 AM   #43
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Strech, I have been told Cummins dropped the coolant fiilter sometime durring the 04/05 build year.
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Old 12-19-2006, 09:04 AM   #44
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Thats, of course, "news to me". I'll check with Cummins heavy duty people and see if it has beed dropped thruout the whole line. Thanks for the info
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Old 12-19-2006, 09:51 AM   #45
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Yup--our 2003 has the older-style bolted tanks so I really dont have a "dog in this hunt." We have a DCA water filter on our 2003 but the local Cummins truck shop has never replaced it. Their approach is to monitor DCA levels and just add treatment via the fill spout, if needed. This approach would be consistent with what I have seen on the 2005 and newer coaches, ie no water filter. Cant speak to the use of "stop-leak" -type products or to the potential for a catastrophic failure. With a $10K engine rebuild or $20K replacement, I would definitely want Cummins' blessing on using such a product (in writing).
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Old 12-20-2006, 06:05 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally posted by htg3:
Has anyone had a catastrophic failure or a major leak of the radiator?
I'm thinking I could live with pinholes for quite a while. $3000 will buy a lot of coolant.
Our thought at first, as it appeared that only a very small amount was leaking....

But when we pulled into the Cummins shop for an inspection and sat there for 30 mins, a whole cup full of coolant came out!

I don't know if it was the cold weather or what, but that made us concerned about a catastrophic failure.

Audrey
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Old 12-20-2006, 05:59 PM   #47
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We were with a couple this evening that have an '05 Monaco - they just had to have the radiator replaced here in Dallas. The service technician called the radiators 'throw aways' as there was no way to repair. He felt very lucky that Monaco paid for it under warranty.
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:46 PM   #48
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Hi Wayne & Kathy,

I noticed you had an 04 Tundra Limited and was wondering if you tow it 4 down behind your Alpine? Did you install a drive line disconnect to do so or do you use a trailer or dolly?

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Old 02-06-2007, 04:52 AM   #49
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Lynn,

I installed a drive shaft disconnect, towed it about 40,000 miles now with no major problems. I had to tighten the mounting bracket once and clean and lube it.
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Old 05-30-2007, 06:04 AM   #50
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We, too, have a small leak and are scheduled to have it fixed at the Yakima Service Center in July. We have a quote of $2,300 from Max. We have an 05 40' FDTS w/only a year warranty on the radiator: Lucky us-we get to pay for the fix. We are very disappointed...a radiator should last much longer than this! It also seems to us that a recall would be in order based on the number of failures we hear have occurred.

Those of you who have had the same leaking problems...what have you done to correct? Used WRV solution or others? Anyone have any success getting warranty to cover if past one year?

Ingrid (Jim isn't here right now to provide any details re: what the "fix" is. I apologize for my lack of technical detail!)
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Old 05-30-2007, 01:03 PM   #51
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I Had a major leak on a Chrysler 440 c. i. engine many years ago. The casting failed (actually broke) on the water pump and it was leaking badly.

When this happened, the engine had been out of production for some time and the only thing available was a used pump from a bone-yard from a car that had over 140K miles on it. So I figured "What the heck. If it works, I've got a free ride. If it doesn't, I'm no worse off than I am now".

I bought some "Bars-Leaks" and poured it into the radiator. The leak stopped withing a minute. It was good for another 18K miles before I sold it. The new owner was told and later called me to say after another 5K miles, it was still going strong.

Granted, that was not a Diesel but a leak is a leak is a leak.

I'd suggest you try a radiator sealant. As I said, you've got nothing to lose.
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Old 05-30-2007, 02:06 PM   #52
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I would not do that, you would more than likely void the warranty on the Cummins engine. $2350 is an at cost quote. They did a great job when they replaced mine.
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Old 05-31-2007, 01:59 AM   #53
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In my case, the warranty is/was long expired.
However, I would be interested in Cummins' reaction to a query by someone having an engine still under warranty.

Being from the "Old School", I still prefer the older Soldered Brass, Copper and steel construction, which are relatively easy to repair by even neophytes. They do not shed heat as well as aluminum and are a bit larger for that reason. But they are reliable and less expensive in the long run for the Customer if/when they go bad.
But, I understand why OEM manufacturers use them. They are less expensive to produce and more commonplace now.

From experience; until I get a final word by an engine manufacturer, I am still a proponent of sealant.
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Old 05-31-2007, 09:00 AM   #54
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After re-reading this thread just for fun, then checking my coach, I've got the same radiator that is giving issues; looks just like John's photo on page 1 of this thread but thankfully minus the green accents.

Radiator is aluminum cross-flow type, vertical tanks on the front & rear edges w/rows of tubes running horizontally. That's why I was curious- previous post said top & bottom tanks, which is unusual for a modern radiator system. Theory is if there is a low-coolant issue, the cross-flow type will always allow fuller circulation of coolant to more fins, whereas top/bottom tanks may restrict flow to a few tubes/fins.

As to topping off & running w/a leak, if my coach is cooling properly by cycling the fan on high @~210 to drop temps to 190's, IMO topping off would get me thru to where I can comfortably stop for the extended period needed for service. Water boils @ 212 at sea level & not under pressure, coolant mix should go to about 235 before boiling (if there was no leak and therefore full pressurization these #'s go up, but there's that pesky leak releasing pressure). So absent a substantial crack pouring out coolant, I wouldn't feel bad about travelling on the cracked radiator but would watch the temp like a hawk and make frequent stops to check the leak's progress.
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Old 06-01-2007, 02:59 AM   #55
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Absolutely correct Mike.

I have also experienced a Brass/Steel "Radiator" leak. I used the water in the Coach's tank to fill the system and as the "Radiator" had a top-fill cap, I removed it so the pressure would not assist in the draining of the "Radiator" (removong the cap from the surge tank also works).
Watching the temperature like a Hawk, I was able to drive it a very long way to a Campground where I removed the "Radiator", re-soldered it in the leaking area (I include a propane torch and Acid core solder in my "Kit-bag"), re-installed it and re-filled it with the proper mix.

Problem solved..........forever.

BTW, there is an easy fix for an Aluminum "Radiator" if the leak is a pin-hole in an area other than a joint. Clean the area well with steel wool or sandpaper, open the pin-hole with a drill only large enough to accept a Stainless Steel sheet metal screw, apply some JB-Weld (or 2-part Epoxy) to the underside of the screw head and run the screw into the hole so it bottoms properly (not too tight, mind you). Then cover the screw head with JB-Weld/Epoxy. This method also works with steel (Gas tank), Copper, Brass and Polyethylene (water/holding tank) applications (without the JB-Weld but using a flat washer and small 'O' ring).

"Necessity is the Mother of all invention" and I know about things like that.
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Old 06-01-2007, 07:28 AM   #56
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We are currently having service performed at the Cummins/Onan Coach Care in Elkhart, IN. I asked the question whether Bars Leak useage will void the engine warranty. Answer is Yes, if they find any evidence of useage, the warranty is voided.
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