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Old 12-31-2014, 11:32 AM   #1
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Living room /kitchen slide

the front living room/kitchen slide is sticking up top when i go to let the slide out. makes a loud pop noise when it finally comes loose. any ideas how to fix this problem?
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Old 01-01-2015, 05:13 AM   #2
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I have trouble with mine as well. It appears that there isn't enough room at the top of the slide for the flap seal to reverse and it will hang up until there is enough pressure then it pops. I have tried adjusting the slide but it did not help. Mine works fine if I am on a level ground. It works fine if I open the slide before I put the jacks down even if not level. My procedure now is to move the slide out 6 inches, then put the jacks down, then move the slide out the rest of the way. No more binding and popping
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Old 01-01-2015, 10:32 AM   #3
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I had the same problem a few years ago and rubbed a very thin coat of molybdenum grease to the inside corner that was sticking and to the slide corner that was sticking. This grease is very 'sticky' and lasted about two or three years and started sticking slightly after that. At this time I tried adjusting the slide and it has been good for the last two years.
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:00 AM   #4
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Slide sticking at the top

The living room slide on our ’01 Alpine 36 is sticking at the top when extending. It has always worked properly until after a week at Desert Rat in Quartzsite. It retracts normally, but when extending, the HWH system pushes out at the bottom, but the top stays against the coach body, forcing the kitchen cabinet down on to the tile floor (fortunately no cracked tiles yet). Three guys helped push at the top while I pressed the HWH button, and it went out. Subsequent retractions have been normal, but extensions require a push at the top.

So far I have done the following things that have had no effect:
1. Checked the nylon bushings in the HWH shaft tube, and they look OK.
2. Checked the connecting brackets between the HWH pushrods and the slide body – nothing loose or cracked.
3. I found that a rubber seal on the inside of the coach wall behind the slide trim panel had come loose along half the length of the slide. I reattached it (with difficulty – mirror, flashlight, silicone adhesive).
4. Cleaned the desert dust off the outside top and sides of the slide.
5. Tried advice from other Alpiners to ignore the HWH-recommended procedure and to rather extend the slides first while the chassis air bags are still inflated and before leveling with the jacks. That made no difference.

My next goal is to lubricate the slide seals with slide-out rubber seal treatment. But to access the outside of the top seal I need to remove the slide topper. What is the best way to do this? Should I remove the mounting brackets from the slide wall, or is there a way to disconnect the topper roller from the brackets?

In a previous post on this topic (Dennis Hamm, Jim Munsil, Steve) there was mention of ‘adjusting the slide’. What adjustments can/should be done?

Michael
2001 Alpine 36FDDS
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveS View Post
I had the same problem a few years ago and rubbed a very thin coat of molybdenum grease to the inside corner that was sticking and to the slide corner that was sticking. This grease is very 'sticky' and lasted about two or three years and started sticking slightly after that. At this time I tried adjusting the slide and it has been good for the last two years.
We had the same issue.With the slide in I rubbed some petroleum jelly all along the back side of the lower portion of the oak trim and I gave it a pretty good coat as low as possible.Then exercise the slide 5 or 6 times. It quit sticking immediately.I then took a few clean shop rags and cleaned off both sides where the slide would make contact when fully extended. No sticking issues going on 4 years now.
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:25 PM   #6
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Slide Adjustments

Hello, my slide was doing the same thing and there are adjustments to raise and lower the front and back of the slides.I had to make several adjustments to get the slide working properly but its all good now.

Good luck




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Originally Posted by dennismhamm View Post
the front living room/kitchen slide is sticking up top when i go to let the slide out. makes a loud pop noise when it finally comes loose. any ideas how to fix this problem?
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Old 02-22-2016, 06:57 AM   #7
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Somewhere I read a long time ago to use talcum powder instead of rubber seal lube on the seal and the top of the slide. That works well for me. Another thing to check is the top of the slide has a rubber like surface that is bonded to the wood and it can come loose in spots and then bunch up which will cause the slide to bind.
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:32 PM   #8
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Michael- Back in '01-ish, WRV had a bad procedure to weld the HWH assembly into the coach frame, i.e. they didn't extend the slide ram or at least the inner (sliding) rectangular tube part way before welding. There are two sets of nylon bushings; you can see one w/the slide out looking into the fixed end of the outer rectangular steel slide tube. The other is on the inside end of the inner (sliding) rectangular tube, and those park just about on the weld area inside the outer tube by the PS frame when the slide is IN. If the welds got too hot, the pads melted. Could be your inners suffer that or another wear problem and no longer slide squarely. Once the slide is part way out, those are no longer that important for alignment as the slide frame and wall opening do the work.
Bad pads on inside end of inner slide tube (photos were taken ~2004 on older coach being repaired):


Slide End Cap out of coach:


Good Pads ready to go back in (teflon tape holding pads in place):


IIRC (never done this but heard tell) you can undo the caps on the PS in the storage bays, activate the slide extend to pop the caps to the right of fixed position, and check the status of the pads; reverse the process to re-seat the caps & bolt them back on. Several coaches had to have pads replaced early in life due to welding melt down. WRV figured this out after several hundred coaches, and established a better installation procedure.
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Old 02-26-2016, 10:43 PM   #9
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Mike, thanks for the information. I hope mine doesn’t have weld-melted nylon bushings because replacement looks like a major operation. It is unlikely though, considering that this coach is approaching 16 years since original purchase date, and the slide has operated normally before now.

However, in examining the ram tubes on the driver side under the extended slide I noticed that the rear tube has 4 nylon bushings – one on all 4 sides of the ram. But the forward tube has only 2 nylon bushings, on top and bottom of the ram, and is empty on the sides. Is this as designed?

Thanks for the suggestions from all responders. I tried most of them, and a few others, and the slide is working somewhat normally, but I don’t know what specifically may have helped. Here are a few things I did in addition to those mentioned above:
1. Turtle-waxed the sides of the slide to make it more slippery for the seals to slide along.
2. Used ‘gravity-assist’ to help the slide out by tilting the coach to the driver side before activating the slide. With air bags still inflated I extended the right-side jacks to the ground. Then I dumped the air and the coach leaned left, and then I extended the slide. The severe tilt caused shrieking from my wife and made this a non-repeatable method.
3. I put a piece of smooth rubber floor pad under the kitchen cabinet to prevent the cabinet from damaging the tile floor. It seemed to help the slide stay vertical and move out.

We have one more stop before we get home so I’ll see if the slide is working well enough to leave as is. Thanks to all.

Michael
2001 Alpine 36FDDS
Bellevue, WA
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Old 02-27-2016, 06:44 PM   #10
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4 pads is the design. 8 actually, 4 inners & 4 outers per ram assembly, total of 16 for both ram sets.
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Old 02-28-2016, 01:51 PM   #11
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I stand corrected, or at least if only 2 pads are found on the forward slide, that's the way mine is also. So either that's the design, or mine is screwed up like the Weitz' coach.
And mine lists forward w/the inner tube vs outer tube on fwd ram enough so that fully IN, the inner tube rubs just slightly on inside of fwd face of outer tube. Not a big deal, just doesn't look straight forward.
I'm guessing one ram needs to be locked into alignment for alignment's sake, then the other can float for tolerance.
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