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Old 09-16-2012, 10:04 AM   #1
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low voltage when on rs2000 inverter when driving

I use the RS2000 inverter when going down the road to power a telephone on the kitchen sink..there are other things I think that run even tho they are off but when I get to where I am going and go to shut it off, the yellow low power light is on showing low voltage.. I thought the batteries should be charging when the engine is running..when parked and connected to shoreline, the batteries show normal...Mel
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Old 09-16-2012, 10:08 AM   #2
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You're right in believing that both battery banks should be charging when driving. I'm having the same issue right now and I'm pretty sure it's because my house batteries are shot and just won't hold the charge at all.

Rick
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Old 09-16-2012, 10:38 AM   #3
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Aren't they being charged by the engine when going down the road? the draw should be minimal when we are travelling..we also have the solar panel which helps when dry camping..I have replaced the batteries are about 4 years old on our 08 coach..
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:38 AM   #4
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How big is that inverter and how many watts are you sucking?

It may be the charge lead to the house batteries is too small and not passing enough current..

It may be your isolator is defective and not charging the house

It may be the wires from the batteries to the inverter need an upgrade

No can tell from here.. Meter voltages with a good digital voltmeter at the chassis battery, the isolator (both sides) the house battery and the inverter's power (12 volt) terminals.
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:11 PM   #5
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should not be drawing much as am not running much except clock on microwave and house phone which is not much at all. all wiring if factory on my 08 coach..thanks..
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:20 PM   #6
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Assume your chassis bats are staying charged while driving so alternator is working. Newer coaches have a solenoid system that shares charge between bats--Vs a bat isolator and echo charger on the older coaches. Hopefully an 08 owner will explain how this all works but appears you are not getting alternator charge across from chassis bats to house. Cable connections are always a good place to start looking in the meantime.
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Old 09-16-2012, 04:24 PM   #7
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Mel- Sounds like you are charging fine from shore power but after driving a long distance the house batt's are down.

After starting engine, unplugging shore power, & before taking off, check the batt compartment Vansco for Output LED# 19. It takes maybe 30-60 seconds to light after receiving a charge voltage over ~13.1. You'll hear (hopefully) the large solenoid on the frame at the back of batt compartment "click" when the LED lights up.
Assuming all that works, your speedo message window shows 13.8 to 14.1 volts, check the voltage across the fat studs on top of the solenoid. You should read no more than 0.1 volts when solenoid is on. If you are reading 0.2 or more, the solenoid contacts are worn and not passing voltage properly. On mine when that happened, each time the solenoid clicked on (makes a loud thunk) I got a different voltage. Since this is basically a switch connection, the ideal voltage when connected should be zero. But the contacts burn a little when the switch closes & opens, and eventually won't pass proper voltage to run inverter & charge batteries.

Other option is the house battery connections need to be taken apart, cleaned & tightened.
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:18 PM   #8
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Engineer Mike, Do you know of a better product other than a Trombetta for the huge selenoid in the back of the battery compartment? We seem to have to replace them quite often. We have heard there are better solutions but my searching on the Internet has not found them yet. Thanks!
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:01 PM   #9
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Just out of curiosity, what was wrong with using an Echo Charger? Did WRV have a technical reason for using the relay or what? Altleast it didn't have any moving parts and seems to work well iin the older coaches like mine.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:39 PM   #10
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I'm guessing one of two reasons the Echo Charger setup got scrapped:
1) it worked too well,
2) it was cheaper to buy a $30+ solenoid and a diode, & pay some average illiterate slob off the street to place the diode in the wiring loom

Ive seen the Intellitec BIRD (bi-directional relay), the 05 gizmo inside the rectangular black box (which incorporates a solenoid), Echo, WRV's solenoid setup off the Vansco, and some others. I'd rate the Echo as the cleanest, but there isn't any zero issue solution. The Vansco/solenoid provides 2 years of good usage off the solenoid before you need a new one. The biggest flaw IMHO was when WRV put it on the metal panel against the frame w/nylock nuts between the panel & frame channels. Good friggin luck getting the OEM bolts off the panel to take the first solenoid off when it fries. Other than the cost (~$40 delivered), the solenoid does the job for me. You have to shut off the chassis batt's when the solenoid/Vansco signal goes into On/Off/On/Off/On/Off/On/Off... [repeat] mode, but that doesn't crop up too often.
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:42 AM   #11
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Mike, did you put the diode in your MH? mine is about the same as yours I think. could we put one in if needed at Quartzsite? need to get the info on the diode if so, so I can get one..thanks, Mel
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickO View Post
You're right in believing that both battery banks should be charging when driving. I'm having the same issue right now and I'm pretty sure it's because my house batteries are shot and just won't hold the charge at all.

Rick
Rick, check out this thread: Engine not charging house battery
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Old 09-29-2012, 03:52 PM   #13
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Mel- I believe the diode is in your wiring loom already.
I'll be at the Chula Vista pre-rally & Miramar air show rally, as well as Quartzsite and we can do a full dress down on it at one of those outings.

I'm suspecting your issue is one of:
- solenoid needs changing
- 1 or more cable connections need cleaning
- 1 or more cable ends are sufficiently corroded they won't pass proper charge
- bad battery in the string
- Xantrex battery temp sensor bad connection or corroded
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:50 PM   #14
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All - When our battery sensor went out, we got a fault on the inverter and it would not clear or charge when on Shore Power. Disconnecting the RJ-45 connector from the inverter fixed this problem, was advised to turn charger off if it was real hot until we changed sensor.

I have not changed solenoid, but have two of them as spares. My issues was, the bolts holding on the old one, it seems I have to crawl under the thing and get them from there because of the way WRV installed them. Mike please send e-mail with proper way to change this, as I am pretty sure it's getting ready to go all the way out. I carry two spares, and was going to change it in Vegas last fall, just could not figure out how to get those bolt off. The batteries, and all the other ways to get shocked also sort of put me off. Finally I just got a thick piece of cardboard and put over the top of the batteries to keep me off them. I disconnected the negative cable and that killed power to everything, but then bolts again as above.

FWIW-I used a solenoid isolator solution in several of my pickup trucks to charge a second battery and provide power to truck campers, they worked fine then. My guess and I think that has been explained, the current load is high and scores the contacts over time on the ones installed in our coach. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please.
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