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Old 05-26-2016, 10:07 AM   #15
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Great post JR. Just when I think I have caught up with Alpine mods......
I am going to do this soon, what do you think of this 12 volt valve on one hose, and a standard shut off valve on the other to use if/when a core failure happens...Mike.

BACOENG 3/4" DN20 Stainless Steel NPT 2 Port Motorized Valve (AC/DC9-24V CR04 Two Wires Spring Return When Power Off Electric Ball Valve): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:09 PM   #16
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Recently replaced heater core in my 03 [coincidence it is an 03--think not]. Anyway, used JRs earlier post to do the install and it was great advice--only real challenges were: 1- it is really a tight fit to get at the top screws on the air box and to get the air box out/in from under the outside fiberglass cap; and 2-getting the frost probe back in position in the evaporator.

Realize this post is a couple years old but upon re-reading all the inputs, here are some observations: 1- A/C evap and heater core are nested together in air box so you can't divert air with control knobs, 2-any hot coolant getting to the heater core during A/C ops is caused by a bad h-valve or control [have never seen the hoses on the heater core side of the h-valve get warm during a/c ops], and 3-like the idea of at least one valve on the heater hoses--as long as they are easy to get to, locating them near the engine compartment is probably best [also a better location if you have hydro-hot].
PS--replacement heater core from ACMEAIRPARTS is much better built core than the OEM, and with larger space between fins--provides better air flow.
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Old 05-28-2016, 10:05 AM   #17
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Mike and Amy,
We're in the Mt Rushmore area and what a great surprise to hear from you.

A magnetic valve is not necessary and could fail which would allow loss of antifreeze. A trip to Home Depot to buy brass fittings to fit two ball valves is all it takes. Cut the in and return antifreeze lines at the firewall with front slide open before the valve that supplies larger amounts of antifreeze to the heater core, install the ball valves with hose clamps and you are in business. Understand that if only one valve is installed the heater core will leak not matter what as there is pressure on the return side. Two are important to isolate the heater core if it leaks. If heat from the dash heater is needed, a quick exit into a rest area, extend the front slide, and two twist of the ball valves open is all that is needed for heat and you are on your way warming the cabin environment. If the heater core is in good condition, the real plus of these two valves is to close the flow of antifreeze in really hot summer enviroments (ie. Arizona, California desert) and the evaporator is not removing heat from the cabin and the heat of a small continual flow of antifreeze full of heat. Your dash air conditioner then can remove the heat from the cabin only and your air conditioner will be far colder without having to remove heat from the heater core. He heater core and evaporator are stacked in tandem in the ACME assembly. We've enjoyed the pluses of these two valve...now for several years. Cummins and the top radiator expert in our large town correctly assured me stopping the flow of antifreeze causes not problems.....and so far they were 100% correct!!
Warmest Regards!!
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Old 05-28-2016, 10:17 AM   #18
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Old Scout,
Re-direct on two of your observations.
2. All valves that supply antifreeze to a heater core allow a small amount of heat to always go to the heater core is designed that way by manufactures. You can observe this if you turn on the heat in a vehicle on a cold day and you get immediate heat. All you are doing is increasing the flow of hot antifreeze when you turn on for heat.
3. Read my reply post to Mike & Amy and you will perhaps better understand why two valves are necessary.
Otherwise you are spot on!!
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Old 05-28-2016, 10:20 AM   #19
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Another tip for that really hot weather is to make sure you are running the AC in recirculating mode. This allows the cab AC to pull air to be cooled from the cabin rather than sucking in and trying to cool the smoking hot outside air rising up off the pavement. This trick especially helpful when running the roof AC's. The cool air from those is laying down on the floor, available to the cab AC already partially cooled down. When run through the cab AC, it's super cooled!

Using recirculated air also works when it's cold. Rather than suck freezing outside air in to be heated, sucking preheated air from within the coach will result in extra warm air coming from the outlets.

Don't worry too much about getting enough fresh air. The way our RVs leak air, there's always plenty of fresh air!
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Old 05-28-2016, 12:20 PM   #20
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Cant resist the opportunity to once again state that the ultimate solution for improving the dash A/C on 03 and earlier Alpines [wax valve engine fan control], Solution is to move the condenser from the rear radiator stack to some where forward and install electric fans controlled by the A/C compressor fan clutch circuit. If you have room in front of the stack--leave the condenser there and just add fans. The difference is nothing short of amazing. For extreme heat or extreme cold for that matter--a fashionable shower curtain hung just behind the passenger an drivers seats--yes, the rest of the coach stays warm/cold but the cab area is well heated/cooled.
PS--for our Alpines, the best cab heating can be achieved by putting the air selector on max air [recirculate] and the temp knob on hot! Not only does this recirculate previously heated inside air, it also overcomes the partial pressure situation that forms behind the genset cap at hy-way speeds--air flow is dramatically improved. Next winter--try it! Yes, this does allow the A/C compressor to run so if you are travelling in cold weather for a few days, just disconnect the compressor clutch circuit at the clutch.
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