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Old 01-01-2007, 08:13 AM   #29
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Who in Palm Springs is doing the work for you? That's a resource I'd like, as I keep our coach in Indio during the winter. The only factory Alpine dealer in this area is Guaranty RV in Indio, and I haven't used their service yet. Intend to do so in about a month.
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Old 01-01-2007, 10:56 AM   #30
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Rick,

I'll send you a private message on this.
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Old 01-01-2007, 12:11 PM   #31
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We had our hoses replaced by RMechanic in Livermore. They did a great job. However, the repair was done in July 06 and WRV has yet to pay them for their labor. I'm not sure they will do any work if WRV is involved.
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Old 01-01-2007, 01:58 PM   #32
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Mule Skinner,

When I lived near San Jose a couple of years ago, I had hydraulic work done on my 2001 Alpine at this shop:
Leales RV
88 Phelan Avenue
San Jose, CA 95112-6105
(408) 286-5353
lealesautorv.com

They did a good job.

Dale
2006 Alpine 36FDTS
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Old 01-01-2007, 07:32 PM   #33
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Hi, We are new to this forum. We've had our 36FDDS just two years. We had a an initial leak on the rear slide hoses, and the rear slide kept creeping out. WRV replaced 6 hoses and then the slide started to creep out again. Sometimes it would go out 4" just sitting in the garage. We left Portland for Casa Grande the day after Christmas, and had the rear slide totally jam up and developed a leak when we were at the Orange Grove in Bakersfield last Thursday. We finally got the slide in partway and I put a tiedown between the rear scissors to prevent it going out any further. When we arrived here in Casa Grande two days ago, I topped up the fluid and attempted to lower the jacks and promptly developed a masive leak. Today I pulled off the rad cover and found two lines that had blown off of the fittings at a coupling. The lines were just draped over the top of the radiator. The lines that blew appear to not be of the crimped variety, in stead having a ferule inside with a compression nut. Tomorow I will try and locate someone to repair the lines.
Question: What are the two lines that appear to have have a plastic cap in their ends? They obviously are not under pressure but appear to be high pressure hoses. I didn't see any blisters/bubbles in any of the lines, but I will check again in the morning before I call WRV and or HWH. I would also like to know the procedure for retracting the rear slide when you have a hydraulic failure.

Thanks

Stu & Shirley Moss
'05 Alpine 36FDDS (narrow & not level)
Portland OR (currently in Casa Grande)
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Old 01-02-2007, 06:25 PM   #34
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Stu and Shirley,
sorry I dont have any help for you but I couldnt help but respond since it's obvious you havent lost your sense of humor (narrow and not level)
best of luck
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Old 01-03-2007, 06:17 PM   #35
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If you refer to your owners manual it will show you the location of the solenoids that need to be unscrewed at the HWH control center (located behind the small door in the coach just aft of the front entry). Unscrewing these two solenoids 3-4 turns relieves the pressure in the system and allows you to simply push the slide in. I did this easily by myself.
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Old 01-04-2007, 07:35 AM   #36
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Stu and Shirley,

I can sure emphasize with you and am also glad you haven't lost your sense of humor. I had my blistered hose replaced yesterday and the hoses mounted up to the floor, rather than laying on the radiator.

The solenoid valves do allow you to push the slide in as Jerry and Judy Davis said. There's also a diagram of the solenoid location near the pump in our 36 MDDS.

During this hose repair, our slide popped out about 4 inches on one end and bound, as it had done before. The HWH technician determined the cylinders for the two scissor rams on the wardrobe were not completed sequenced with each other. The only way we could get the slide in was to disconnect both cylinder rams (fortunately the slide was retracted most of the way at the time). We got to the front ram by removing the shower glass/door assembly (comes out with three screws on each end as a one piece assembly). We cycled both cylinders in and out with the extend/retract switch about 4 times when they were disconnected and they automatically sequenced themselves. We re-fastened the cylinders and they worked fine.

When these cylinders were unfastened from the scissor rams, they slide came in very easy by hand.

So, that's the procedure if the solenoids don't work. It takes 11/16" 12 point wrench to get the cylinders loosened at the top.

I don't have any hoses with plastic caps in the ends. That's the way my new hose came. Are you sure these shouldn't be connected?

Hope this helps.



Hope you get yours fixed OK today.
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Old 01-04-2007, 07:47 PM   #37
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It appears that my lines are spliced in the area above the radiator. Perhaps what WRV did when the said they "repaced" 6 hoses. After talking to HWH, I connected to two High pressure hose to each other, which allowed to me to pressurize the system and deploy my jacks and front slide. Since it was much easier to disconnect the low pressure lines from the cylinders at their connection above the radiator, I did that which should have removed all pressure on either side of the cylinder since they wer open to atmosphere. Two of us pushing hard on the slide wouldn't even get it to budge, so perhaps we have a seized cylinder?
I still haven't found anyone to do the work.. I called Burt at East Valley RV in Apache Junction, but he hasn't gotten back to me, so maybe we'll drive up there tomorrow in our toad. Any other reccomendations?

THanks for the pointers.

Stu & Shirley Moss
2005 Alpine 36FDDS
2005 Honda Pilot
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Old 01-06-2007, 09:27 AM   #38
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Stu & Shirley,

I think you may have the same problem I had after we replaced our hose to the rear cylinder on the wardrobe slide. The front part of the slide was out about 6" and bound. When we pressurized the system and tried to retract the slide, it bound up even tighter. We tried removing the hose connections as you did and moving the slide but it would not budge.

Talking to HWH, they said the only way to get it to move was to disconnect both cylinders (top and bottom connections) from the scissor rams on the slide and retract and extend them several times until they became sequenced. When we removed the cylinders, the slide came in very easily by hand. The cylinders in effect had one extending and the other retracting, and that's why the slide would not move.

After retracting and extending the cylinders several times when they were disconnected, they naturally sequenced to "out" and "in" at the same point. We reconnected the cylinders to the scissor rams and the slide has worked fine.

This whole process took a few hours. We got to the rear cylinder by lying on the bed, because the slide was most of the way in. To get to the front cylinder, we took the shower door and glass assembly off by removing 3 screws on each side attachment to the fiberglass. Once both cylinders were synchronized, we made sure the slide was all the way in, cylinders were in the right position, and reconnected. We ran the slide in and out a few times and made sure it was OK. Finally, we cleaned the fiberglass base of the shower,installed the shower assembly with the six screws, and recaulked the shower to the base.

Not seeing your particular situation, but reading your issues, I would look at trying the above procedure and see if it won't unbind the slide and resequence the cylinders
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Old 01-09-2007, 05:42 PM   #39
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dale Dowdy:
Mule Skinner,

When I lived near San Jose a couple of years ago, I had hydraulic work done on my 2001 Alpine at this shop:
Leales RV
88 Phelan Avenue
San Jose, CA 95112-6105
(408) 286-5353
lealesautorv.com

They did a good job.

Dale
2006 Alpine 36FDTS </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well Dale,
I took my coach to Leales RV on Monday. I think I lucked out. One of the Tec's knows me from the race track. They looked over the system and only all of the hoses leak (?). WRV said it's HWH's responsibility and that's where I'm at as of today. I do have an extended warrantee so the most it will cost me is $100.00. Boy I hope HWH has upgraded the hoses.
I just want to go camping!
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Old 01-10-2007, 11:02 AM   #40
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Mule Skinner,

I received a piece of heat shielding from WRV for my hoses today -- it is about 24 inches long, and looks like a 2 inch diameter rubber hose with a heat-resistant fabric lining that's about 1/4 inch thick. Since we already installed the new hose and relocated the hoses to the bedroom floor I talked to Mike Glazier at WRV and he suggested we slit the heat shield lengthwise, cover the connections and hydraulic hose, and re-fasten the hoses to the bedroom floor.

When I get this new shield installed I'll attach a picture of it.

You might want to make sure you get some of this new heat shielding material from WRV before you install the new hoses, so that when you break the connections for the hoses you can slide them through this heat shield and not have to slit it, as I will do.

It took me nearly two weeks to get this heat shield from WRV so you might want to expedite it.
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Old 01-10-2007, 06:54 PM   #41
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">It took me nearly two weeks to get this heat shield from WRV so you might want to expedite it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I asked the repair shop to get this shielding to be sent to them. I'll check with them in the morning.
Thanks for the reminder.
Dan
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:23 PM   #42
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Mule Skinner,

Glad you were able to get Leales RV to do the work on your hydraulic lines.

I also recommend that you have some type of heat shielding installed, if they leave the speed (needle) valve, connectors, and excess hose above the radiator.

Dale
2006 36FDTS
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