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Old 09-14-2010, 10:37 PM   #1
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Need Fuel Cap

Ok, so I was a "bonehead" and left the fuel cap sitting on the pump when I drove off. And yes it took many, many miles for me to realize the unusual smell. Of course I was also distracted by the left front wheel cover/fender come loose!? (Yes, the whole entire cover ... about 8' long!)

I've done a search of the site and can only find a reference to gas caps (AC Delco & Stant) that can't be used on my 2003. The fuel cap needs to be about 2" in diameter. I did see EMike's suggestion to add some sort of chain or cord to the cap to avoid the situation. I'll do that but first I need a cap.

Any help would be greatly apprecited!
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:47 PM   #2
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Bob,
Pull your rig into most any truck stop and walk into the store... ask the counter clerk to show you that big box of fuel caps they have under the counter.
Most of the time, they will give you the one that fits your rig.
Be very sure that it satisfies any venting or vapor recovery scheme for your particular RV.
Keep trying truck stops till you find the right one for free.
Good luck,
Jim
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Old 09-15-2010, 12:06 AM   #3
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Bob:

I put a Stant on mine. I bought it from Pep Boys, though I'm sure most everyone else carries it too. IIRC it was standard on some GMs.

There is a thread from a couple years back that has the part number. I'll see if I can dig it up.

BTW, I put my fuel cap on top of the headlight, inside the slide when I fill up. It may or may not have ridden around in that position in the past. However, I never did lose it....
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Old 09-15-2010, 12:06 AM   #4
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The correct fuel cap should be 99 Dodge Ram 3500 6-360 5.9 Diesel or Carquest CCA34060. This one fit on my 2000 and 2007.
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:01 PM   #5
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After my bonehead incident with fuel cap, stopped at next Flying J and bought a replacement. I modified the replacment cap with a chain attached to fire wall.
BTF
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:52 PM   #6
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Ok, add "Bozo" to "Bonehead". The cap is a standard 1 3/4" in diameter and I found a fuel cap at Auto Zone Part #6825. I'm at the ACA San Dimas Rally and another owner brought his cap over to my MH to try it.

So, being a "Bozo" & a "Bonehead" cost me $7. Sure beats that awful smell permeating the coach!!! I'll had a chain as previously described as soon as I get home.

Now just hoping that "Bozo" & "Bonehead" aren't actually diseases of the brain rather than rare lapses!

Thanks for everyone's help!!!
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:22 PM   #7
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Bob,
Quit beating yourself up... ...(Let us do it behind your back!!!)

...Just kidding, pal... It's easy to get distracted and to forget to replace the fuel cap, but you will address that situation with the retaining lanyard for that cap ...and you will know what the fuel smell means if it ever happens again. Lesson learned ...no one hurt.

Mine is a locking cap without a good place for a lanyard. I place it on the first step inside the coach so I will have to step over it when I re-board. Also, the cap will not release the key until the key is turned to locking position, so I just leave the key in the cap (along with the ignition key on the same ring) until it is locked down. Fail safe. (I need that. )

As RVers, we operate a very complex piece of machinery under very dynamic conditions. We must develop SOPs and protocols (and lots of little tricks) to ensure everything is stowed, secured, locked down, and made fit for travel... at every stop ...every time.

...And then hope and pray we got it right. Laminated check lists are very helpful to that end.
Travel safely,
Jim
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Old 09-16-2010, 09:32 PM   #8
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I tried laminating checklists, but they hurt when I pull them off.

You can usually drill a small hole in the thickened end of the grip on the cap, and thread thru some stainless safety wire to make a loop. Put a chain, or a hook on the loop. Ever since I went thru that exercise, never had a slip-up. Maybe just the act of installing the loop/hook & the eye-hook to hold the cap while fueling cemented the cap handling in my otherwise quite slippery memory tissue.
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Old 09-17-2010, 12:26 AM   #9
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An alternative trick is to use #12 wire - White so it can be seen - using crimp on connectors use a ring terminal for a #8 machine screw for the cap end and then screw the other end ring terminal to one of the three screws which hold the neck assembly to the coach. I did mine that way and works fine.
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