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Old 06-13-2018, 08:44 AM   #1
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New Floor -- Second Time Around

The faded carpet was old and in need of replacement. The original hard floor was the wrong color and damaged due to a leaky ice maker. So out with the old and in with the new ... twice!! So what happened?

The Allure vinyl planks purchased from Home Depot were defective We used Allure in the past in our stick built and were very happy with the finished results and the years to follow. So, it seemed a good choice for our coach. The short of the story is, my wife and I tore it up, returned to Home Depot for a full refund and 50% off the purchase of a replacement product as compensation for the lost labor.

Now we have launched into our second floor installation. We purchase LifeProof flooring and are confident this will work well. Flooring info can be found here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/LifeProo...351L/300876920 The upside, if can call it that, all the prep work was done during the first install. To follow are the replacement stages from start to finish with some pictures. I will continue posting until finished.
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Old 06-13-2018, 08:47 AM   #2
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Stage One
Remove old flooring. This by far and away the hardest most laborious part of the project. Removing the carpet, piece of cake. The staples, now that is another story. Not particularly hard, just the shear amount of them use by WRV. A lot of time sitting and crawling around. Next to go, the hard flooring. Like the staples, WRV used copious amounts of adhesive. Hammer, chisel and Tylenol, all the while I kept telling myself "it will be worth it."
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:46 AM   #3
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Tim,

Please post a picture, if you can, of the skid, roller, skateboard wheel, or what ever you used to raise the aft end of the slide to prevent damage to the new flooring.

What was the problem with the Allure vinyl.

Thanks for posting your progress.

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Old 06-13-2018, 10:59 AM   #4
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Will do Gene. I do have the wheels out and will take a picture or two.
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:10 AM   #5
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The Allure on the first install easily chipped, as if it was brittle. And the adhesive laps gave it up. It was weird to see seams popping lose in a number of places even in no traffic areas like under the front seats. We also found it allow moisture underneath when the floor was cleaned. The stuff installed in our stick built was bulletproof. Had none of these issues.
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Old 06-13-2018, 03:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcgene View Post
Please post a picture, if you can, of the skid, roller, skateboard wheel, or what ever you used to raise the aft end of the slide to prevent damage to the new flooring.
Gene, sorry I do not have pictures of the original skid. In order to install new flooring on the 1999 and maybe the early 2000 Alpines, the skid needs to be removed. The new floor has be installed under this part of the cabinet. Since we are installing a floating floor, I replace the carpeted skid with wheels to prevent buckling as the slide moves in. So what you see in the picture is: The slide is extended. Drawers removed. Plywood the wheels are mounted to is removed. Note, the three wheels in the center are not yet mounted to the wood. That is why they appear to misaligned. So this time around I am adding to the original four wheels to better distribute the cabinet weight. The plywood and the wheels will be turned over and place into the rectangular hole (bottom of the picture) and bolted down. If you do this mode, be sure you use plywood that is large enough to provide good support and use ample number of screws.
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:25 AM   #7
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Stage Two
Floor leveler. In many places chiseling up the old hard floor damaged the sub-floor. Also, needed to repair water damaged floor next to the slide behind the driver seat. A floor leveler was used to fill in the damaged in the kitchen and bathroom areas. We used an elastomer product from Lowes for its flexible qualities and steered away from the residential leveler that sets hard like concrete. ElastoPatch info can be found here: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DAP-ElastoP...pound/50198043

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Old 06-15-2018, 07:06 AM   #8
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Stage Three
Floor sealer. In an effort seal off old wood smell, preserve the wood and to head off possible future water damage, the entire sub-floor was painted with Zinsser Shellac-base primer-sealer -- two to three coats. Fast drying so you can apply all the coats in one day. By the next morning the floor is ready for the next stag. Word of warning, ventilation and respirator are required. I used to be a big fan of Kilz until I discover Zinsser. Info about B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer can be found here: https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...ac-base-primer

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Old 06-16-2018, 07:21 AM   #9
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Stage Four
Radiant Barrier. This was the final stage before actually installing the new flooring. Wanted to increase the insulation efficiency of the floor in cold and warm weather conditions. I began looking into radiant sheathing and how it could be used under flooring. I opted for a fiber reinforced aluminum barrier that is commonly used in attics. The testing and reviews on this stuff was hard to ignore. Certainly not a new technology, but very effective. Aluminum barrier info can be found here: https://www.radiantguard.com/collect...adiant-barrier This stuff is tough, will not tear, relatively inexpensive and very easy to install. The only tool needed was pair scissors. Taped the edges with Aluminum tape: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3241744&rt=rud

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Old 06-16-2018, 09:14 AM   #10
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Great write up!
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Old 06-19-2018, 10:34 AM   #11
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Stage Five
New floor install. As of now the living room and kitchen are done. The challenging install areas are up front around the seats and steps. Also the kitchen under the cabinets that come inward over the floor when the slide is retracted. The results are looking pretty darn good. As a recap, all the prep work and pictures were from the first floor install last year. I include those steps here for continuity. Now here is the amazing part of this project. While 3,000 mile away for work, my beloved wife is the one doing the complete install by herself! 38 years ago I knew I married someone special!

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Tight areas around and under the front console and stairwell.

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Shows the flooring as it goes under the left side of the kitchen cabinet and leads aft to the bathroom.

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On the home stretch through the bathroom and on to the bedroom.
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:24 PM   #12
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Is this a floating floor (gap around sides and furniture) or glue down?
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Old 06-20-2018, 09:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Is this a floating floor (gap around sides and furniture) or glue down?
Brett, this install is floating. In the case of the kitchen, planks extend under the cabinets with a gap left for expansion. In the case of very short runs, the gap is much smaller where expansion is not much of an issue. Flexible sealant will be applied to the gaps before the finish trim is installed. The thinking is, to prevent as much as possible water intrusion. I think my wife used a couple brads by the front door to stabilize small pieces of flooring.
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Old 06-20-2018, 09:52 AM   #14
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Tim,


Good. I installed a floating floor in our last coach. Used quarter round stained to match all the way around-- glued to wall, not floor.


On floor mounted items like front seats, removed and mounted them on plywood just slightly thicker than the flooring and about 1" smaller than seat mount footprint so new floor could go under the seat mount. Looked like floor mounted on seat, but allowed for expansion/contraction.
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