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Old 02-03-2014, 07:14 PM   #15
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His SCP indicates that the "AC IN" is good. He should be able to count on that status which indicates shore power is reaching the Inverter/Charger.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:25 AM   #16
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Great info. I did some reading of other threads on charging and discovered my chassis batteries at 11.8V. After 3 days on the road, they should be well charged. After starting the coach, #19 on the Vansco unit was not lit. It seems neither of my banks of batteries is being charged. Is there a common connection that could be preventing all batteries from charging?
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:53 PM   #17
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John- First, check charge voltage while engine running; if you're not getting ~14V then you have an alternator problem.
#19 has a delay, one batt bank has to reach something like 13.1V+ for the requisite delay. If 19 never lights, then try your boost switch with engine running; if still no #19 then that circuit in Vansco has burned out. If 19 lights w/boost switch, then the input voltage from one or both banks isn't making proper connection.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:51 AM   #18
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I was stuck in Gallup, NM 2 days when the coach would not start. Initially looked like alternator was overcharging, but discovered moisture on the batteries was from small hydraulic leak. Alternator was tested, found good and rebuilt anyway as was dirty…. Next found short with starter, which was shot. Starts and runs well with new starter. My question is whether the solenoid between the starter and the Vansco unit, mentioned in another thread, could have been damaged due to the short from the starter? Is this also where the negative line from the inverter/charger connects to complete the circuit? The Vansco is brand new, updated version, and the #19 circuit better not be burned out. Mike, with both banks of batteries below the voltage you mention, that could explain #19 not being lit.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:27 AM   #19
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I doubt the solenoid between Vansco & starter got damaged. That said, these are small, inexpensive, & versatile spares. A Cole-Hersee 24059 or a 65 Ford Mustang start solenoid will replace the Alpine remote start solenoid, the boost solenoid (for a get by til you can order the 200A continuous duty type), or the pump or master relay on the HWH. So I recommend carrying a spare.

The inverter/charger has nothing to do with the starter Circuit. One side of the remote start solenoid is always hot, the other is connected to the small stud on the big solenoid on the starter itself used to engage the starter. The always hot #10 wire comes of the fat red ~1/0 starter hot wire, runs to the remote solenoid which sets & waits for start signal from Vansco.
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Old 02-06-2014, 01:38 PM   #20
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Just checked the cable leaving the inverter for the batteries. This reads 5.7v, the same reading directly off the batteries, even though the lights on the inverter are signaling good AC into the unit and charge is being sent to the batteries. Is the inverter drawing from the batteries? With the inverter on while there was very little drawdown on the battery power over 4 days. When I left for 3 days, I turned off the inverter and put it in sleep mode in order to stop the small draw. Even my inverter AC side was disabled. When I got back, the house batteries had gone from 11v to 5.7v. Could the inverter be wired improperly causing it to not charge while actually pulling power from the batteries?
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