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Old 02-27-2016, 06:32 PM   #1
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No brake lights

First - 2006 Alpine Limited front door triple slide. Gone through all of the posts and still can't find my example. No brake lights. Brake light switch seems to work correctly....when activated get the normal growling noise, front Vansco input #24 lights and back Vansco output #2 and #8 light. Tested switch alone with ohm meter and it works as expected. Yes the stop light bulbs are both good. Where do I go from here?
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Old 02-27-2016, 09:07 PM   #2
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Reset the Vanscos (turn off both the battery disconnect switches for 15 seconds, then turn them both on). Try the break lights again.
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Old 02-27-2016, 10:18 PM   #3
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Sorry, that was the first thing I did with no luck.
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Old 02-28-2016, 02:18 AM   #4
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Do you have a GOOD ground at the lights ? poor grounds cause lots of problems.
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Old 02-28-2016, 05:22 AM   #5
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I have a 2003 Alpine and I had to go to the front panel on passenger side and there's a fuse and relay there. I'm not sure if the latter models also go there. In the library there's the wiring diagram of the bundles with the numbers.
Larry Pate
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Old 02-28-2016, 05:39 PM   #6
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Update and correction. My other half read the back Vansco wrong. When the brake is applied #12 and #18 lights go on. Also checked ground lead at both rear bulbs and it ohm'ed good. Also tail lights and turn signals work fine.
Is there a fuse any where else?
There is a roadmaster box mounted down near the trailer hitch with wires for stop, turn and tail light leads. Could this be causing the problem?
Russ Carr
2006 Alpine 38FDTS
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Old 02-28-2016, 11:54 PM   #7
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If you are not the first owner, the previous owner probably had to add a fuse and relay to power the Alpine brake lights plus those on the Toad. (The Vansco alone would not always carry the load). Look around the battery compartment for a relay and probably an inline fuse. If they look good also look/check for the added splice on the on the brake light wire from the Vansco.
I don't have that wire # handy, but can dig it up in a couple of days. Good Luck
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:57 AM   #8
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When doing a reset of vansco make sure to either cover the solar panels or disconnect when turning the off the battery disconnect during sunlight hours.
I would also check the roadmaster box connections very carefully for a bad connection or broken wire.



Ralph 2005 Alpine 40FDQS

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Old 03-01-2016, 11:01 PM   #9
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Thanks for the suggestion about the relay and fuse. Finally found the fuse (good) and relay. I can jump around the relay and get the lights to come on so I guess my wiring is good. I can also connect a jumper wire directly to #86 on the relay with the Vansco wire disconnected and it clicks and lights work.
The relay shown below has the following connections......#85 is ground, #86 is connected to the Vansco wire, #87 is connected the stop light and #30 is connected to the hot lead from the fuse from the battery. #87a is not connected.
If I disconnect the wire from the Vansco (#86) and apply the brakes it reads 13.1 volts. However when connected the volts drops to about 4 volts and the relay does not energize. Why?
I opened up the wire covering and found this red connector (?) or something on the line from the Vansco to the relay. Is it a connector or some other unknown electronic gizmo? Looks like it has gotten hot so I might try to remove it in a couple of days when I can get back to this project.
Thanks everyone for the comments and help.
Russ
[IMG]c:\users\russ carr\pictures\alpine coach\brake light relay.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]C:\Users\Russ Carr\Pictures\Alpine Coach\unknown.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:10 PM   #10
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Have to try again for the photos.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:49 PM   #11
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The saga is over. That burnt item is a diode covered with some type of shrink tubing. Camping world, local auto parts stores and RV repair facilities didn't have a clue to where I could get the item. Radio Shack had them in stock. Lights now work and since the diode comes in a pack of 4 I now have spares.
Thanks to all for the help.
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Old 10-06-2016, 04:51 PM   #12
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2001 pre vansco brake light issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcarr View Post
The saga is over. That burnt item is a diode covered with some type of shrink tubing. Camping world, local auto parts stores and RV repair facilities didn't have a clue to where I could get the item. Radio Shack had them in stock. Lights now work and since the diode comes in a pack of 4 I now have spares.
Thanks to all for the help.
Old Carr - I'm having a similar issue with my 2001 38' pre vansco. Where did you find the connector/diode shown in the picture in your post? I have power at the fuse panel, and found another 15A fuse in the engine access panel area, also good. Tail and turn working, brake lights not, including same on the toad. Also, the part number for the Radio Shack diode would be appreciated in case that is on my unit.

Thanks.
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:26 PM   #13
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Ron, I am having the same trouble on my 2003. All lights work except the brake lights. The fuse is good by the front door, if I jumper 12v to the #1149 wire from the relay connector in front I get 12v at the connector in the rear. I get nothing when I apply the brake. I have checked the Brake Switch to be good and functioning. I am having trouble seeing the circuitry for the brake switch. I also have NO RELAY marked Brake Lights. I have removed and checked the relays in that module and all are working fine.
This is getting very confusing. Any help would be very appreciated. Ken. L.
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken L. View Post
Ron, I am having the same trouble on my 2003. All lights work except the brake lights. The fuse is good by the front door, if I jumper 12v to the #1149 wire from the relay connector in front I get 12v at the connector in the rear. I get nothing when I apply the brake. I have checked the Brake Switch to be good and functioning. I am having trouble seeing the circuitry for the brake switch. I also have NO RELAY marked Brake Lights. I have removed and checked the relays in that module and all are working fine.
This is getting very confusing. Any help would be very appreciated. Ken. L.
Ken: the brake switch mounted at the brake pedal (under floor on mine) is a normally closed function, e.g. off when brakes not applied. I assume you have had someone push the pedal to assure the power is passing through the switch when pedal is depressed? You should normally have 12v on one leg in normal position, then power added to the second wire when depressed (may need to have key on).

On mine, I found the switch was not functioning, and attempted (without success due to imminent departure on a planned trip) to remove the switch to further test it. Since I could not easily remove it, I was able to unscrew the protective rubber cap on the pedal side of the mounting bracket and spray some silicone lubricant into the switch plunger area. This solved the problem and apparently freed up the plunger, I have made another short trip or two since and still working fine. FYI, there is also a third wire, slaved into the output wire that apparently is intended to cancel cruise control when brakes applied. Beyond this switch, there should be direct wiring to the brake lights, possibly interrupted by a relay or fuse, but I did not have to take that step. There is no fuse or breaker in my panels in front of the passenger seat for brake lights.

Remember that the trailer plug at the hitch is also included in this loop, the main reason I was checking this out was my toad wiring was not giving me stop lights either.

Previously, I had another wiring issue with no tail lights, no turn signals, no wipers, no horn, and no head lights. This was all solved by consulting with M&M Electronics, Ohio City, OH who advised me to send them the 2 touch pads off smart steering wheel, the 1x4 card with multiple diodes under the horn bar on the steering wheel, and the master controller on firewall under driver dash. $250 later, all solved, the problem for that was in the 1x4 card which they fixed.

I do not think your problem is in the master controller last paragraph. I would suggest further checking the brake switch, and if power is in/out there, you will need to go further downstream of this switch. Good luck. Ron
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