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Old 08-14-2015, 11:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGlenn View Post
If you have a volt ohm meter you can test continuity across the breakers with the ohm setting.
They were not open. The wires are bigger than I thought. No resets on any of them. Thank you for the suggestion
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:13 PM   #16
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Tom,

Your house battery connections are WRONG on the hand written diagram. Both chassis & house 12V systems are negative ground. You're showing a negative ground on the chassis bats but positive ground on the house bats (Bus Bar). Either you drew the diagram wrong or you have the ground & hot leads backwards on the house bats.
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:18 PM   #17
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The configuration of these connections are correct to use 2x12V in parallel for starting and 4x6V in series/parallel for house.

Brian
It is midnight here and grandma (DW) and grandson are camping out in the coach. Grandson was really disappointed when we turned around to head back home. I just went out and disconnected all batteries and will double check in the morning to be sure I hadn't missed something.

I got an idea from another thread to check the house disconnect switch. I hadn't used it in years as we stay plugged in at home, but I turned it off to switch out the batteries.

Thank you for confirming my drawing
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:25 PM   #18
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Tom,

Your house battery connections are WRONG on the hand written diagram. Both chassis & house 12V systems are negative ground. You're showing a negative ground on the chassis bats but positive ground on the house bats (Bus Bar). Either you drew the diagram wrong or you have the ground & hot leads backwards on the house bats.
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:33 PM   #19
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PM'd you back.
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Old 08-15-2015, 03:19 AM   #20
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Tom,

Your house battery connections are WRONG on the hand written diagram. Both chassis & house 12V systems are negative ground. You're showing a negative ground on the chassis bats but positive ground on the house bats (Bus Bar). Either you drew the diagram wrong or you have the ground & hot leads backwards on the house bats.
The positives to the bus bar are correct, from my knowledge - the bus bar is powered, positive 12V to provide hots to all the 12V house systems. The negatives on the house batteries are ganged in series to the negatives on the chassis batteries and then to ground. Not my preference, but this configuration will ground the house batteries. My preference is to ground each battery bank separately.

Is my terminology incorrect? Please confirm.

Brian
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Old 08-15-2015, 09:09 AM   #21
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By default, Alpine coaches did come equipped with a positive side bus bar. Many owners (such as Tom) have installed them for improved distribution. I recently replaced my bats and chose not to add the bus bar.
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Old 08-15-2015, 09:10 AM   #22
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Correction - they did NOT come with the positive bus bar. I accidentally edited out the "not" in the previous post.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:04 AM   #23
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Name:	ImageUploadedByiRV2 - RV Forum1439654623.864123.jpg
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ID:	103411Correct Brian.

I found the problem and wow, do I feel foolish.

I was concentrating so much on the 6 volt side. I pulled the new batteries again to have them load tested. As I was pulling the batteries, I disconnected the 12 volt negative (center of the picture). The negative from the 6 volt to the 12 volt negative was at best finger tight. I had pulled that cable when I installed the new batteries and forgot to tighten that connection. Worked fine in the driveway, but a little road vibration......UGH!!!!!!!

A simple clean and tighten was all it took. Slides work on just battery power!!!!

Thank you everyone for your input. The simple things in mechanics, like life, are often overlooked!!
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We live out in our old van. Travel all across this land. Drive until the city lights dissolve into a country sky, me and you - hand in hand.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:08 AM   #24
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It sounds like you have lost your connection to the batteries and your 12v systems are operating off the charger/converter. You say batteries are showing 6.47v. across your 6V batteries - this should be OK but are likely not connected to the load or the charger.

So yes check ALL Connections switches and relays - I suspect it is a connection issue somewhere.
YOU DID SAY ALL CONNECTIONS DIDN'T YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanking all again.
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We live out in our old van. Travel all across this land. Drive until the city lights dissolve into a country sky, me and you - hand in hand.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:13 AM   #25
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Have you checked the fuses in the maintenance bay? There is a ground fuse and a couple of 12V fuses that might warrant checking...200 amp fuses I believe.


BTW, I have to have my acc or IG switch on for HWH to work which implies that the engine batteries operate HWH.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:51 AM   #26
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Tom & Patty

Yes I shouted ALL Connections. Glad you found it. That was my first suspect problem. I check ALL the connections on my PM routine. (Well all I can get at anyway). Glad you found the problem.
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Old 08-15-2015, 03:20 PM   #27
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Steve,

On my 2000 the ignition switch activates the HWH, but the house batteries power the hydraulics. I know cause years ago I spent 30 minutes trying to get the jacks to retract when I had forgotten to turn on the house disconnect switch.
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We live out in our old van. Travel all across this land. Drive until the city lights dissolve into a country sky, me and you - hand in hand.
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Old 08-15-2015, 03:43 PM   #28
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LOL Been there ,done that, probably haven't bought the T-Shirt yet!!

Geoff
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