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Old 03-22-2010, 06:57 PM   #15
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Well, we got it jury-rigged, by tapping into pins 1 and 12 of connector 3, and supplying 12v from the relay. The slides move. It just takes two to do it now--for the next month, until we're back.

What causes the electronics to fail? Was there a short when we pulled in the br slide? We're afraid to move that one now. Or was it just a random failure? With exquisite timing. We pulled the two front slides in with no problem a few days ago, but it smelled smokey in the box when we replaced fuses today.

Thanks again for your help--my stress level was pretty high.
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:48 PM   #16
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I am not sure what cause the problem. I suspect the voltage regulator gets some corrosion ct to its ground and shorts out blowing the fuse and taking a couple of diodes with it. At least that is what appeared to happen to mine. It went out in a similar manner. I had been sitting for a couple of months and when I got ready to go nothing worked.

If you route the wires going to CN3 socket 1 and 12 to the T1 terminal. The slides will work normally. T1 supplies 12 volts whenever a slide switch is activated. This will turn the pump on and the slides will deploy or retract depending on what you are trying to do. T1 is a screw terminal on the computer board, just put a ring terminal on the wires and attach it to the terminal. By activating the pump this way the wiring is protected by poly fuses ( circuit breakers that reset). IFIWM I would not hesitate to deploy all 4 slides.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:27 AM   #17
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John- this is probably a dumb question, but did you try another 7.5A fuse for F10 and see if the board will work (i.e. just a transient overload)?
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:50 AM   #18
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Mike, yes, that was the first thing we did...We were really hoping it would be that simple. The schematic called for a 10amp fuse so that's what we tried.

We're packed up and ready to start heading north today so we're hoping for the best.

As far as a permanent fix...what's the estimated cost of replacing the panel? Do we really need to or is a fix like Wayne did all we really need to do? Our route home, roughly, will be Tucson, San Diego, Sacramento, then home to Central Oregon. Is there a recommended shop along the way for this repair? We've already got plans to stop at Redlands Truck/RV for a few things.

Thanks again Wayne for all your help yesterday.
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:30 AM   #19
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When we lost hydraulics and power to the leveling pad it was a corroded ground cable from the pump to the frame. When I pulled on the cable it came apart.
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:04 AM   #20
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John, I donít advocate my bypass setup as a permanent fix. HWH will repair your 625 control unit for a max of 450. Or make you a new one for about 650. They have a lead time of a few weeks on either option. When I replace mine in a month or so I will bypass the 625 computer board for slide operation. IMHO HWH did a poor job of implementing slide operation and that probably led to board failure. The computer can be bypassed safely using 2 diodes hooked to pin 1 and 12 of CN3 getting power from the same lead HWH uses to turn the board on for slide operation. HWH may have fixed the design flaw by now I have not talked to them in a while..

PPL advertises a 625 control kit for 470, not sure what it includes. Our rigs need an RAP 91267 according to the HWH 625 panel replacement PDF.
PS: Take the time to hook your 2 wires to T1. The slides will operate normally. You can not do any damage. All that is happening is the pump is being turned on. The slide switches already activate the deploy and retract solenoids. You can have your wife operate a slide switch and you should be able to hear a click as the solenoid operates.
Also if you end up replacing your board for convenience. I would like to buy your old one. I still want to find out why these things are failing. I need another cadaver.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:50 PM   #21
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Wayne,
Your work on that manual control box is outstanding. I have printed all this relevant material but would be very interested in buying such a box. I notice you have two generations. Would you be interested in selling one of these setups or making another one?
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:13 AM   #22
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Rick, I really don’t want to fabricate another box but can help you gather what you need. I purchased a set of Deutsch crimper's to make up the plugs (I have other uses for the crimper). A more practical way is to order a male DT12 plug from Bates racing already assembled. http://www.deutschconnector.com/ . You can order a connector with 2 feet of wire (minimum length). They also allow you to specify a color for each pin and gauge. Color coding lessens the chance of a mis wire and makes trouble shooting easier.I used;
Pin 1 Red = MC relay
Pin 2 Open
Pin 3 Open
Pin 4 Open
Pin 5 Green LF jack
Pin 6 Black ground RF Jack
Pin 7 Black ground RR Jack
Pin 8 Lt Green LR Jack
Pin 9 LT Blue RR Jack
Pin 10 Blue RF Jack
Pin 11 Yellow Air Dump
Pin 12 Orange Pump relay

3 pin plug
Orange slide 12 volts, Red 12 volt from battery to power box, Black ground for box

The 3 wire connector is Ground, 12 volts to power the box and 12 volts from the slide switches. The 12 volts from the slide switches goes to terminal T1. I actually installed a pin in one of the slide connectors to bring the 12 volts from the T1 wire assembly.

I used lighted switches for the Jacks and Air dump and a momentary switch to actuate the pump. Note if power is tapped into T1 the slides work normally even if the computer board is removed. The housing must stay in place since all the slide wires pass through this box.

The way I use this set up is. If the HWH system is OK, CN3 remains plugged in. The 3 pin plug is capped and stowed on a mounting clip. If there is a problem CN3 is unplugged and plugged into the bypass box. And the 3 pin connector is plugged in. Now it is easy to trouble shot individual jacks, air dump or just run all systems. The box is fused and the slide wiring is protected by poly fuses built into the system.

The switches and project box are all available at Radio Shack. Better quality switches would be nice.

Yes there are 2 generations of the box. The 1st generation got me back on the road. The 2nd was to make hooking it up and running the slides easier. The " 2nd box" is box 1 Modified.
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:37 AM   #23
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Wayne, is "T1" shown as "+12" on the "circuit board connector and pin locations diagram"?
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:14 AM   #24
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No, It is about 2 inches from T2 on that diagram but not shown. It has 2 black wires going to it and is a raised screw terminal. It is clearly marked on the green circuit board. Your board more than likely fried the diode right next to T1 or the other end of one of the wires.
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:20 AM   #25
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While extending ps br slide, hyd pump ran continuously with ignition key in accessory or start position and drove jacks down full stroke. Found 7.5A fuse blown on control board & replaced same but it did not resolve problem. HWH replaced control board AP30887 with refurbished board, also revised level sensor mount and calibrated coach level. Failed board had several problems inculding a burned trace on back of board. HWH charge at their facility was $175.00 on 11/04/2009.
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:13 AM   #26
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Big fish, These things must have a Trojan horse in them. (3) 05 40FDQS all lost the board at the 5-6 year mark. Did they offer any suggestions as to what went wrong? I still suspect the grond on the voltage regulator. Mine took out the diode and trace wires ct T1. Our quote of 450 was worst case. The person we talked to thought it would be less.

Odd they don't even list the pn they replaced yours with on there replacement chart. But then that may just be the number of the computer boards. The variation is with the slide wiring and how the panel faces north, south ect.

I need to call them again and see if I can just buy the computer board.
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Old 03-25-2010, 07:48 PM   #27
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John & Lori,
First I would never recommend a higher fuse rating than the manufacturer calls for.
Like you periodically I smell a burn smell in my HWH compartment, and look as hard and deep into the unit as I can but I cannot find anything that looks burned, or pinpoint the source of the smell.

I re-did all the wires from the unit to the fuse/terminal block panel with new crimp on connectors as each one I tried after we purchased were lose, and some even pulled out. I also coated every connection with NO-OX-ID anti corrosive electrical grease to protect those connections which are somewhat exposed to the elements. I did not however, take the connectors lose and put the compound in those to keep them from working out or arching. I need to do this but I am going to wait until I can totally power the coach down, so I know there is no chance of the problems other have had. I try to do this to every connection I can reach, as electrical issues are the bain of WRV. Now, do a bing.com search on the circuit board to see if you can find another source. I don't think dinosaur electronics do those boards, but they might. I have the name of another reputable source but don't believe they make HWH boards. I hope you solve the issue and it never returns.
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Old 03-25-2010, 08:09 PM   #28
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Old RVer, F10 calls for a 10 amp fuse HWH apparently installed a 7.5 John was just wondering why. Oddly mine also had a 7.5 in F10. The voltage regulator produces a lot of heat. While testing my board would shut down when the regulator got hot. I could cool it with my soldering sponge and the board would come back on. I know they have a built in timing circuit for pump operation but I would hope it is not the regulator.
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