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Old 10-12-2010, 08:04 AM   #43
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Location: U.P. michigan/Montana
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You know Ole Rver, I got that same impression !!!

That this company,{HWH} had slashed the majority of their workers and had a skeleton crew left....
Im with you 100%..... I really felt there was nobody left or few left to talk to...
When on "HOLD" I was not really on hold ... I could here the phone go down with almost complete silence, no chatter or any background noise, except a tap here or there....
Sound like the place was empty! Maybe it's all in my head...

But there sure did not seem to be much activity...

But it all makes sense.... The RV industry has taken a terrific blow... Stands to reason there probably has been massive layoffs.

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Old 10-12-2010, 08:26 AM   #44
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Location: U.P. michigan/Montana
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Thank you Wayne.
I seen your excellent work on the bypass module to operate the sliders less the HWH board. I have no doubt you electronic's background is SOLID !

Quite a handy and thought out device you created!

You know, I would have no problem buying a new board from HWH if they could only tell me if they made any improvements compared to the board I have... But they are clueless as to where they stand in the electrical engineering of this board... They cannot say .."OH" your model # AP30126 is a EARLIER model...... changes were made to improve the circuitry.... OR no thats the latest model we have....

They have NO IDEA.... and I was hoping for some improved circuitry with maybe a bypass for the slides....
He was able to say 2 things... "NO bypass has ever been incorporated for the slides" and we have a beefed up model....
Now when i tried to ask about the "BEEFED UP" model..... could not even give me one instance of the "BEEFING"....
SO they obviously have no idea of their product.
Im going to go with the replacing that diode myself first. {JOHN/Lori} was EXTREMELY helpful in getting a link to the diodes to buy.
Hey even if I fail in this attempt... I can still send it in or buy a new....ah old one....{and have it fry a few more years down the line}

But if i am successful like John/Lori was, like he said... 1 diode ,55 cents- having an electrical engineer to help you.... PRICELESS !

With my luck, I'll probably have more damage then that 1 diode and the burned tracer between..... But who knows... I might get lucky...

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Old 10-12-2010, 10:56 PM   #45
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There are lots of companies that can trace all the circuits through a board and make repairs, as long as the damage is not too extensive. If they use better parts, it ought to work longer. I just had a jacuzzi board repaired for $50. The new one was $550 plus tax.
2003 Alpine 40FDTS (400HP)
Long Beach, CA
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:45 PM   #46
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I am working on a customer's coach w/intermittent non-op on the HYD button (works maybe 60% of the time) and the STORE button (works maybe 5% of the time) in his touchpad (2005-36ft, works-in-a-drawer mounted touchpad). Anybody here had to replace the touchpad, and if so how much was the part from HWH?
Looks like somebody who is good w/pc-board component work could replace the momentary push-button switches (4-pin soldered into the upper board), but if the part isn't out of control expensive, would be easier to go new touchpad.
Thanks for any info.
Baja-tested '08 2-slide 36'
Alpine: The Ultimate DIY'er Project
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Old 07-03-2011, 10:54 PM   #47
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All - One thing I have heard, but have not checked but seems reasonable is when not hooked up to Shore power or having the Genset Running, the HWH system can draw as much as 100 Amps for a short duration, maybe less than a second or two. Trying to get that much current from the 12V side of the house might be putting higher resistance in the board and causing the issues described above (not EM issue), so my suggestion is to only operate the HWH system either plugged into shore power or have the genset running so adequate power is available to the system. Another suggestion was in a post earlier in this thread, concerning the electrical connections in the HWH compartment on that terminal block. WRV as we all know had no electrical QA inspections, and I think half the fellows who wired them were high or drunk, so make sure you check and or replace any incorrect sized spade terminals on that connector block, and ensure all the grounds are good and tight. Please read my post earlier about this issue. We have had no issues with the electrical side of the HWH system, but have had solenoid issues, ongoing with the vanity slide.

EM - Purchased a pair of pliers like the ones you suggested from Lowe's, which are designed similarly to the ones you suggested. When we get finished with the kitchen remodel, and I can work on the coach, I will try to use them to change that valve.
Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 07-04-2011, 10:29 AM   #48
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Here is what I found on another iRV2 thread:
Post #9 had this to say:
"I had problems with my HWH touchpad where I could not turn on the power, thus not lower the jacks.

I contacted
HWH and spoke with Frank, he said I could replace the touchpad or send it in for repair. I sent it in for repair, which they replaced the micro switch for the power button. It cost me less than $60 to get it fixed."

Baja-tested '08 2-slide 36'
Alpine: The Ultimate DIY'er Project
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