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Old 03-22-2010, 10:53 AM   #1
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no hydraulics working

We've been parked for 3 months and in the course of prepping to leave tomorrow we wanted to pull all the slides in...why isn't important...so I got the bedroom TV slide in but can't get the other slides in, and there are no lights on the leveling panel in the dash pullout drawer, and there are no lights on the leveling control panel either in the compartment behind the p/s front tire. Seems there's just no power to the hydraulic system. The leveling jacks are up as we raised them a few days ago, with no problem at the time.

If it makes any difference, at the time of my starting to bring the slides in, John had just started the engine--which took a few trys before it fired up, and we were still connected to shore power.

Did a fuse somewhere blow? Where is the main fuse to this system??

TIA
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:56 AM   #2
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Your hydraulic system needs at least 12.4 amps from the batteries to operate. If you have weak batteries, your hydraulics won't work. Make sure you batteries are charge first. I had the same problem 3 months ago. Thought it was a fuse. Turns out it was just low coach batteries.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:15 AM   #3
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Batteries are at 13.4 The first slide came in fine. Because there are no lights to the entire system, we are thinking it's a main fuse...just can't find in the manual where the fuse is located.

Also, just a couple days ago we had retracted and extended the p/s front slide with no problem.

And within the last week, we cleaned and raised the leveling jacks. As I'd stated in the starting post, now even the leveling panel doesn't light up. So, to clarify, it's not just the slides, it's the entire hydraulic system that is nonresponsive.
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:20 AM   #4
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John check F10 on the 625 panel. If its blown the panel is bad. You can bring the slides in by activating the MC relay and pump relay. The slide solenoids are not controlled by the 625 computer board the wiring to the slide solenoids just pass through the control box. A remote starter switch would work great for this situation. Just hook it up to activate both relays and have your better have run the slides in using the switches inside the MH.
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:24 AM   #5
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John this is a picture of how I worked around a bad 625 panel. The single switch box controls the pump and the 5 switch box controls the jacks and air dump.


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Old 03-22-2010, 11:36 AM   #6
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Here is a picture of my plug and play back up system.
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:45 AM   #7
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Link to HWH service manual for 625 system.

http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml35963.pdf
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Old 03-22-2010, 12:52 PM   #8
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OK, we pulled the fuses...in the F10 position there was a blown 7.5 amp fuse. Why is it only a 7.5???? We're going to replace it will a 10 amp and see what happens.

We're in Mexico so creating the plug and play option should be interesting!
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Old 03-22-2010, 01:26 PM   #9
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Mine also had a 7.5 in it. We have the same vintage and model of MH. No idea why they did that. Hopefully replacing the fuse will fix it. You might check and see if the voltage regulator just below F10 has lost its ground where it is pop riveted to the circuit board.

John if you can get some 14 cage solid coper wire. You can make pins to plug into C3. Just solder some automotive wire to a 3/4 inch long piece of 14 gauge household wire. Plug a wire into socket 1 and 12 and apply 12 volts through a momentary switch. That will run the pump. Your wife can then close the slides. C3 does not need to be plugged into the circuit board for this to work. C3 supplies 12 volts and ground to the HWH components. The jacks can also be deployed or stored by applying 12 volts to the appropriate socket of of C3, along with running the pump if you are extending them. To retract just apply 12volts to the appropriate socket. 2 of the jack solenoids also need ground at C3. This is all shown on the HWH wire diagram.
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:38 PM   #10
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The wiring diagram at the bottom of the doc't you referenced shows a CN3 brown 12-pin connector. Is that the part you are referring to when you wrote C3? Is it the orange colored connector we see in your pics that is located at the top of the panel?

Do we need two separate wires to plug into 1 and 12 at the same time, then apply 12v to the two of them?

Is there a convenient source for 12v in the compartment? How 'bout at the pump relay?

Sorry about all the questions. We just want to make sure we're understanding what you're suggesting. This is a bit beyond our normal comfort zone but hey, it's either fix it or stay in Mexico forever. Hhmmm, wait a minute. Maybe we need to reconsider...haha!
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:47 PM   #11
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In the top picture you are looking at Yes it is CN3. It is a brown plug with an orange sealing surface. Pin 1 powers the master relay and pin 12 the pump relay. They can be tied together if you want. A good 12 volt source is the battery cable going to the MC relay it is on the bottom left of my MC relay.
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:57 PM   #12
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This is a wiring diagram of my by-pass box. For temporary use it can be done a lot simpler. Just make pins out of 14 gauge solid wire and apply 12 volts and ground to the function you need on CN3.


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Old 03-22-2010, 03:02 PM   #13
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Thanks so much for your help Wayne. We're going to go assemble the parts and we'll try it out in a little while.
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:14 PM   #14
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John another easy work around that would allow the slides to work normally would be to tap into T1 on the circuit board and route it to pin 1 and 12 of CN3. this would activate the MC relay and pump when the slide switches are activated. CN3 can stay disconnected from the circuit board and this will still work. Just verify you have 12 volts at T1 when a slide switch is deployed. The wiring is all protected by ploy fuses wired into the metal box that contains the computer board. The plugs going to the metal box that are not plugged into the circuit board need to be plugged in. The circuit board (computer board) can actually be removed.
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