No shore power - solved? (' 07 34"FDDS)

[Janet and Todd]

You also have to tell your inverter what amp receptacle you're plugged in to. The inverter will "power share" the available power so that the charger won't hog the juice. That way, you won't pop a breaker if you use the microwave while on a 15 amp shore power.

[DrDaveMA]

Not to complicate the issue but below is the proper wiring for a 50 amp RV plug (and also the 30 amp version), give it to your electrician and ask him to make you an adapter, if he can not, have him install the correct 50 amp plug.

[Old Scout]

….pretty sure no configuration of "adaptor" is going to overcome the fact that you don't have a true neutral on your welder plug....you are going to have to "rewire" something to make this work....again, polarity on a 30 amp RV plug is critical--reverse it and you will likely get the dreaded "magic white smoke"--preventive quality of surge protector, notwithstanding......

[whalepirot]

The risk/reward is tilted to sole use of only the 110v feed @ home. All I lose are items not really needed, save rare occasions. Any parking here is restricted to active loading/unloading.



Input much appreciated. Lots learned.

[Renipladlo]

A correction if I might. Pick Tube for AQ/HH is 1/3 tank full, and 1/4 tank full for the genset. NOTE: Some of them were hooked up backwards, we found out ours is correct on 1st voyage out to MT and it got COLD, and I was remiss in NOT filling up tank prior to layover. Learned lesson always fill up prior to stopping. That also was when the cook top decided to catch fire under the lid, wish I had let it burn.

[whalepirot]

Just wrapping our maiden voyage with the nice folks in ACA, N and S Cal.

Enroute, we O'nighted at Malibu State Beach w/ 30A service; the rally camp has 50A; both operated fine, just as the 110v indicated, so a huge TY for your help. The surge/inverter system auto-detected what was connected, and delivered the separate 110v power to each respective A/C, etc..

Side note: fixed a HRH issue where LF jack would not extend, plus an Excess Slope light, which was likely the case in Malibu, but not this concrete pad! Two fellow Alpiners shared many wide-ranging recommendations, including the online table for the numbered LEDs on the basement control panel board.

While the lit ones weren't much help, checking the fuses w/ my DVOM showed all okay, but in checking them via their sockets, I noticed one fuse pin (for the lazy jack) abutted, but was not in its socket.

Voila! The system works properly.

I love 'free' fixes! (A few more 'easter eggs' remain.)

[gmcgene]

whalepirot,

How did you resolve the "excess slope" issue?

I get that light occasionally when automatically deploying the jacks on level ground adjacent to my carport.

Thanks for your input.

[Old Scout]

...significantly different HWH systems between 1998 and 2007....not sure much of what applies to a 2007 system also applies to a 1998 vintage system???? On the 1998, the leveling sensor in a mechanical [4-point adjustment] on the ceiling of the basement, behind the water tank?????

[Janet and Todd]

When I get the excess slope warning, it's usually because the rear jacks have punched their way through the soft fluffy soil sometimes found at some sites. It's probably soft and fluffy because that's where the utility trench is located.

[whalepirot]

Originally Posted by gmcgene

How did you resolve the "excess slope" issue?

This may not help, but it solved itself... almost.

When the fuse was properly inserted, all function returned to normal, after full retraction, then redeployment.

I'd had issues with the RF jack not retracting, unless I did it with the right side DOWN switch, after shutting off the automatic.

The site we had at (very nice) Malibu State Beach, had significant nose low paved pad, so I was not totally surprised to see the warning again. It seemed to be a stored code, however, even when later parked on a level pad. Then, the above eliminated it.

I just got some stackables to place under the jacks, more for sideways slippage, like streetside at home, than anticipated slopes. I disliked the audible clunk upon retraction at home, figured it was binding. An oldtimer at the Alpine meet, suggested sawn-in-half 2x4s, inside a 1/2" plywood 'sandwich' as a footer, but the stackables were enroute.

[DrDaveMA]

Originally Posted by whalepirot

This may not help, but it solved itself... almost.

When the fuse was properly inserted, all function returned to normal, after full retraction, then redeployment.

I'd had issues with the RF jack not retracting, unless I did it with the right side DOWN switch, after shutting off the automatic.

The site we had at (very nice) Malibu State Beach, had significant nose low paved pad, so I was not totally surprised to see the warning again. It seemed to be a stored code, however, even when later parked on a level pad. Then, the above eliminated it.

I just got some stackables to place under the jacks, more for sideways slippage, like streetside at home, than anticipated slopes. I disliked the audible clunk upon retraction at home, figured it was binding. An oldtimer at the Alpine meet, suggested sawn-in-half 2x4s, inside a 1/2" plywood 'sandwich' as a footer, but the stackables were enroute.

I take two 8’ PT 2x10’s cut into 3, 3 and 2’ pieces. I put a draw pull on the end so they are easy to remove (with the awning rod) and carry. Instead of having an under 1 square foot foot on the jack, you spread the load out on to about 3 times that much. Using two 8’ 2x10’s you get one pad for each jack and 2 spare adders if you need them. You automatically get 1 1/2” of extra lift if you need for each piece of 2x10 you use.

Remember, never raise you rear wheels off the ground (your parking brakes come from the rear wheels). In fact if I need to raise any wheel of the ground I move my parking position.

I think WRV mounted the HWH jacks fairly high on the chassis thus a limited amount of travel for leveling. Having said that if they had mounted the jacks lower it would have created more wheels off the ground conditions.

There have been several threads about jack retracting issues, to sum them up, clean the jack with either WD-40 or HWH fluid, cycle the jack several times. You should lube the jacks periodically, particularly before retracting if they have been down for an extended period (you decide how long extended period is).

[whalepirot]

Thanks; very useful. I rather like the suggestion of another old-timers who said silicone spray on his jacks has proven to be trouble-free for many years. Unlike any oil-based, (WD-40 is) silicone is dry and won't encourage dust and dirt to stick. Once the jacks are up, it seems a question as to just how much of any lube survives the passage past the seals.

[Old Scout]

...sometimes "Old Timers" have it right but not always--this OT included ...using blocks is always a good thing; lifting wheels off the ground, not so much; HWH jack seals are self-lubing so you only need to clean them--HWH recommends WD-40 or hydraulic fluid for cleaning, but not silicone. Safe travels....

[DrDaveMA]

Originally Posted by whalepirot

Thanks; very useful. I rather like the suggestion of another old-timers who said silicone spray on his jacks has proven to be trouble-free for many years. Unlike any oil-based, (WD-40 is) silicone is dry and won't encourage dust and dirt to stick. Once the jacks are up, it seems a question as to just how much of any lube survives the passage past the seals.

Of course you have the right to do as you wish, but HWH only recommends WD-40 or HWH hydraulic oil (I am told the only difference between ATF and HWH hydraulic oil is the HWH is color free, so if you get a leak there is no staining).