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Old 07-01-2013, 03:51 PM   #1
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Normal Trans Temp

My 2006 40 Alpine in the past has had a trans temp of 212 degrees on a hot day. This year it is 227-234. The trans is working fine. Is this normal? Also does this coach have trans cooler or is it built into the radiator?

Thanks, Doug
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:33 PM   #2
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If you are passing thru Death Valley where the pavement is molten, that's a good trans temp. I'd say you may be having issues w/your trans heat exchanger. There was provision once upon a time for running coolant thru radiator tanks as evidenced by the taps there, but at least for a while in the last years, WRV used a tube-within-a-tube heat exchanger to waste trans heat into the engine coolant. You can find it by following the trans hydraulic lines that come off the trans case.

Your interior coolant or hydraulic fluid lines inside that gizmo may be blocked. Or your coolant could be old. Or...
Sounds like a good early warning to get it checked out.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:34 AM   #3
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update

Update on my Transmission. I took my Alpine to Clark Allison in Henderson,KY to have the transmission checked out. They serviced the trans and flushed the cooler and found everything in good shape. They thought it could a radiator issue but wanted me to give a try. I just made a 6 hour trip from southern Indiana to Chicago pulling a trailer. I was a little worried because the weather is hot. But good news the everything is fine. In traffic the trans temp was at 218 and at 70 mph 207-214. I can only assume their was some trash in the trans cooler. O fcourse being a Alpine a new problem has occurred, my ABS light is on. The brakes are working fine, I will deal with that next week. Thanks, Doug
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:53 PM   #4
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Probably just an ABS sensor adjustment or trash in the "teeth" or serrations the sensor reads that needs blowing out.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:23 PM   #5
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This is probably not applicable in your case, but just for general information, here is another item that can produce an ABS warning light. Ater Cummins in Spokane had our coach on their dyno we then had an ABS light. They should have caught it, but didn't. Per their instructions we drove it around for a while to reset the system. The reason for the light; while on the dyno not all the wheels are turning, therefore the ABS system thinks there is a failure.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:12 PM   #6
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That explains why the ABS light came on when I went airborne.
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:42 PM   #7
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I just took the bulb out.
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:31 PM   #8
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That explains why the ABS light came on when I went airborne.
Motorhome jumping? Wahoo!
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:53 PM   #9
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I would not have taken the bulb out, what happens if you really have a brake or ABS issue, no warning.

Mine must have a cable which is a little short, because when I make a real sharp turn, it never fails the light will come on, after a while it goes out. Have decided to worry about it. It fixes itself after a few minutes, why worry.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:14 PM   #10
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The ABS light was always on because there is a fault in the controller, and the only way to fix it is a total replacement at several thousand dollars. The brakes work fine without ABS so I am not planning to fix it ant time soon. If there is a fault in the rest of the brake circuit the "service brake" lamp will come on, the 2 are not connected.

The reason your ABS light comes on on sharp turns is that the inner and outer wheels are rotating at different speeds. Once you are straight the wheels are back in sync and the ABS resets itself.
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:04 PM   #11
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FWIW - Prior to the accident, ours ran around 205-207 after at least 60-90 minutes of normal highway running, well within the normal range. If we were coming off a long haul, and trying to put it into a storage or campground spot using reverse, it got as hot as 213 sometimes. Post accident it rarely goes over 201-203, unless we are in traffic and a lot of idle time, then it might hit 210. Fast idle in traffic will cool it down some. I watch it but since it's never been a problem, it is one thing not to worry about. I have had the system serviced twice, once at it's normal interval, and once because of the accident, with two different fluid analysis reports, nothing out of the normal range was detected. I do recommend you download or read the manual on the transmission to understand all it's neat features and the service intervals.
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:23 PM   #12
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I'll jump in here with my two cents.

WRT trans temps, my Allison 3000MH runs generally around 180F. I have only seen it around 200F once. That was after doing a bunch of grades.

There are a lot of factors involved when it comes to "normal" temps. Engine, side versus rear radiator, ambient temps, how dirty the cooling radiator is whether it is internal or separate, etc. You have to factor in many things.

WRT the ABS light, for the person who posted that their control board/module cost several thousands of dollars to replace, WOW! I recently replaced my control board and it was $90 installed. The only way to tell exactly what is going on is to take to a shop where they will connect their code reader to your diagnostics port and read the error codes. Once you have that information you can resolve the problem and then clear the ABS dash light.

Pulling the bulb is not the right course of action.

D4Film ----- Richard
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:22 PM   #13
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Motorhome jumping? Wahoo!
Now we're are talking I have never done that but I have be to a drag strip 1/4 mile 15 minutes flat. (just kidding).
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:20 PM   #14
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I would think changing the fluid alone will make the difference. Like all other fluids it will break down and become less efficient.
By the way, how do you get the temp reading. I remember seeing something in one of the manuals to get the reading at the drive, neutral, revers panel.
Or, do you have a gauge?
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