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Old 07-01-2016, 07:28 AM   #1
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Pad/Feet thats mounted to the bottom of the jacks

Anyone know where i can purchase the pads/feet that bolts to the bottom of the hydraulic jacks? Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-01-2016, 07:58 AM   #2
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Pad/Feet thats mounted to the bottom of the jacks

Dennis, I don't use pads or feet, I go to Lowes and purchase two pressure treated 8' 2 X 10 and cut them into 3' pieces with 2' left over. I also put drawer pulls on the ends, that way I don't have to reach under to get the pads. If they were ever too far under the awning pull would be useful to extract them. The 2 X 10 spreads the weight over a larger area and is easy to install/remove. They also store very nicely in the first drivers side compartment behind the propane tank. The 2' left over is used for those time when you have "excess slope".
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Old 07-01-2016, 08:18 AM   #3
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DrDaveMA, im talking about the round plate that is bolted to the bottom of the hwh jacks.
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Old 07-01-2016, 08:49 AM   #4
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Either HWH or an RV Salvage yard-- not a part that normally wears out.

RV salvage yards: RV Salvage & Parts List - Type A motorhomes - FMCA Motorhome Forums
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Old 07-01-2016, 09:45 AM   #5
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Dennis,


Look on the body of the jack for the AP number. Then go to hwhcorp.com, put the AP number in the search box and it will give you the RP number for the jack pads to order. If there's a mfg. delay, you could do a google search for that RP number and see if a vendor has them in stock.
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Old 07-01-2016, 03:45 PM   #6
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Dennis,

I needed one for our 2004 Alpine and ordered it and a pair of springs from HWH. I used the AP number that Janet and Todd suggested. (Hi Janet and Todd!)

Our pad is not bolted to the bottom of the hydraulic leg. It is held in place by the springs.

I was so happy with the speed at which the jack comes up (with the new springs) that I ordered 3 more pair of springs for the other 3 legs.

Getting the springs and pad back on the coach was a pain. I hired a mobile RV tech to come do it and I helped him. One suggestion was to rock the spring back and forth and insert small wood shims (or metal washers, etc.) between the coils. This "lengthens" the spring where it might be easier to install. Once installed, just operate the HWH panel to extend the legs and the shims will fall out. I didn't do this and the mobile tech just levered the springs into place with pry bars and vise grips. Throughout the whole prying method, I was quite worried the mobile tech was going to hurt himself!

Cheers!
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:41 PM   #7
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Mike,

Yes, I use the same technique for replacing HWH springs-- bend, insert thin wood blocks (I cut up a thick paint stick-- cost $.39).

No brute force needed.
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Old 07-01-2016, 07:54 PM   #8
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I recently replaced all four pads and it is totally a no sweat operation, probably took less than thirty minutes. I made a tool recommended by HWH's traveling technical expert, Paul Maddox, and it works beautifully and cost next to nothing for the material.

Get a piece of 4' x 1" square steel tube and one hardware store 3/8" or 5/16" "J" hook. Drill the appropriate size hole 1' from one end, insert your "J" hook and you're ready to go. Hook the tool into the outboard spring where it enters the pad. I had to reshape the hook slightly . Paul didn't mention this part but I found it necessary to use a small piece of wood 4" x 4" as a fulcrum positioned between the steel tube and an appropriate frame member for the necessary leverage. It takes very little force when the block is properly positioned to pull down on the square tube and maneuver the pad off of its hydraulic strut. Once the pad is loose just remove and replace with the new pad. At this point both springs are attached to the new pad. By positioning your wood block and hooking your tool into the outer spring it is very easy to pull down on the tool and slide the pad on to the stud on the bottom of the strut. I don't anticipate replacing any more pads in the foreseeable future, but just in case, I will make one mod to the tool by drilling another hole, or possibly several to fasten my 4" x 4" block to the steel tube; it was a bit of a pain keeping the block properly positioned where I needed it. Truly, it takes longer describing this tool and its use than it did to remove and replace the four pads.

So, why did I have to replace four pads? We dry camp quite a lot and I was often a bit lazy when it came to using my wood leveling blocks under the jacks, when I thought the dirt or desert suface wouldn'd need the extra support - wrong. Eventually the flat bottoms on a couple pads began to deform and that was when all the pads were replaced. My HWH pads are p/n RAP8464 @ $52.00 each, plus $22.00 shipping to CA. Lesson learned, "Use good support under the jack pads, no matter what the parking surface may be." If for no other reason, the campground will either appreciate, or require, "pads"under your pads to keep from damaging their parking surfaces.
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Old 07-01-2016, 08:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennismhamm View Post
DrDaveMA, im talking about the round plate that is bolted to the bottom of the hwh jacks.

Dennis, I am aware you are talking about the round pads at the bottom of the jacks. Unless you lost one you can continue to use your existing pads with the boards I suggested, saving yourself well over $200. If you lost or damage one of the pads you have no choice but to purchase a new one.
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Old 07-02-2016, 05:43 PM   #10
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Dave, one of my pads was so far deformed that the 3/8" diameter positioning stud on the bottom of the jack strut was protruding below the jack pad and actually punched a matching hole into one of one plywood leveling boards. When the jack retracted the board was stuck to that stud. If one were to use a badly deformed jack pad/s at a campground and punched holes into the concrete or asphalt surface with this exposed stud you might have a repair bill waiting when you got home. Again, these pads probably will never deform that badly if one is diligent in using a proper support under the pad - I am guilty as charged. Has any one else thought the ground sufficiently firm, not used adequate pads under the jacks, and after the leveling process found one or more jacks pushed well below the ground surface? Probably so... Our Alpines are heavy, and HWH has a very powerful hydraulic system. These pads probably could have been designed a bit larger and stronger.
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Old 07-02-2016, 06:03 PM   #11
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Birddog Pilot, im guilty!
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Old 07-02-2016, 08:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddog Pilot View Post
Dave, one of my pads was so far deformed that the 3/8" diameter positioning stud on the bottom of the jack strut was protruding below the jack pad and actually punched a matching hole into one of one plywood leveling boards. When the jack retracted the board was stuck to that stud. If one were to use a badly deformed jack pad/s at a campground and punched holes into the concrete or asphalt surface with this exposed stud you might have a repair bill waiting when you got home. Again, these pads probably will never deform that badly if one is diligent in using a proper support under the pad - I am guilty as charged. Has any one else thought the ground sufficiently firm, not used adequate pads under the jacks, and after the leveling process found one or more jacks pushed well below the ground surface? Probably so... Our Alpines are heavy, and HWH has a very powerful hydraulic system. These pads probably could have been designed a bit larger and stronger.

Dick, that is weird, I drove one of my jack pads, without the wooden support, into MY asphalt driveway. Obviously there was a problem with the driveway, but when I retracted the jack I pulled it out of about 6" of driveway. The point is, the pad is tough. I wonder if there was a problem with your pad to deform that badly, could it have been rusted, I never looked closely, but if I remember correctly it is pretty heavy steel. I agree the coaches are heavy and the pads could be larger/stronger.
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Old 07-03-2016, 09:22 AM   #13
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Dave, no rust or broken welds on the pads that would compromise strength, but one pad was totally shot, another on its way, and the other two just so-so. Just for grins take a straight edge and place it under your pads and see how much of the surface is flat; a new pad is flat all the way out to the edge where the lip turns up. My worst pad was completely curved with just the positioning stud protruding. I'm now using "Super Dolly Bus Pads" under the jacks that are good for some ridiculous 60,000 puunds or something like that.

We're still on the road now but will be home in about a week; if you are intrested I can email you pictures of the deformed pads, they are on the home computer.
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Old 07-03-2016, 09:30 AM   #14
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Anyone know where i can purchase the pads/feet that bolts to the bottom of the hydraulic jacks? Thanks for your help.
Automatic RV Leveling Jack Pads - RV SnapPad
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