Portable Surge Protector - Theft Protection

[Eusefull]

Looking at all the posts and ideas for surge protectors...I see there are 2 ways to go about it.... Hard Wired (wiring the unit inside the basement) and Portable (type that you plug into shore power post, then plug coach plug into unit)

Since either way seems to run about $350-$400 for the unit (50amp) itself, and more to cover labor on a hard wired unit install...I was wondering if there was any reason I could not do the following:

Purchase the portable unit, then buy a 50amp extention cord to use from the shore power post into the coach and then keep the portable surge protector inside my basement and plug my power cable cord into the surge so everything stays locked up.

Not knowing how a hardwired unit would impact the coach if it failed or did its job, but got toasted from a lightning strike etc...then requiring all that re-install (cost, time etc.)

So is there any reason I could not use the portable in this way? Heat? Ventilation? etc.

Most say they are durable to the elements so I can't think of a reason not to and I like the idea if keeping the $400 surge protector locked up and not visable to those with happy hands looking to walk off with the unit.

Only added cost is a 30-50ft 50amp extention cord + the portable surge protector.

I am considering this one:
http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index....ROD&ProdID=140

since it seems to have the highest Joule rating of 3560

I have a 2003 Alpine 40ft with some expensive electronics inside that I would like to shield better against bad shore power posts.

Thanks for any feedback and confirmation that the unit I am considering is the way to go is much appreciated.

[Eusefull]

Looking at all the posts and ideas for surge protectors...I see there are 2 ways to go about it.... Hard Wired (wiring the unit inside the basement) and Portable (type that you plug into shore power post, then plug coach plug into unit)

Since either way seems to run about $350-$400 for the unit (50amp) itself, and more to cover labor on a hard wired unit install...I was wondering if there was any reason I could not do the following:

Purchase the portable unit, then buy a 50amp extention cord to use from the shore power post into the coach and then keep the portable surge protector inside my basement and plug my power cable cord into the surge so everything stays locked up.

Not knowing how a hardwired unit would impact the coach if it failed or did its job, but got toasted from a lightning strike etc...then requiring all that re-install (cost, time etc.)

So is there any reason I could not use the portable in this way? Heat? Ventilation? etc.

Most say they are durable to the elements so I can't think of a reason not to and I like the idea if keeping the $400 surge protector locked up and not visable to those with happy hands looking to walk off with the unit.

Only added cost is a 30-50ft 50amp extention cord + the portable surge protector.

I am considering this one:
http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index....ROD&ProdID=140

since it seems to have the highest Joule rating of 3560

I have a 2003 Alpine 40ft with some expensive electronics inside that I would like to shield better against bad shore power posts.

Thanks for any feedback and confirmation that the unit I am considering is the way to go is much appreciated.

[adj]

I take it you have totally rejected the use of the locking bracket on this unit.

[Eusefull]

Hi Dale ~ glad you pointed that out....that's another reason I was hoping someone might comment who has one of these since the locking feature isn't really explained. As F/Ter's on the go and with so many different shorepower posts, not sure how the lock would attach?

As you know, most power posts have a flip up lid and so trying to imagine how this would hang down and lock is an unknown.

Will give the company a call and get someone on the phone.

[Eusefull]

Well, made the phone call to Progressive Industries (maker of surge protectors) and spoke with Robert who answered all my questions AND then some. He was very knowledgeable about our Alpine which was impressive.

My concern with portables was how they actually lock to the powerpost. Robert gave a good description which satisfied my curiosity, but asked me what I was not using a hardwire unit?

Being a novice about electricity etc., I mentioned I wasn't sure how it would hamper my unit if his surge protector went out. "Simple, it has a by-pass switch" he said. So even if the unit was effected by doing it's job and blowing a fuse etc. The by-pass would still allow power via my powercord if needed.

The other impressive thing he explained was how the unit is made in modular form....meaning with the lid off, a novice like me can change fuses etc. without too much trouble.

Result....I ordered it on the spot and he is sending to me today. No shipping cost and with a after-hours phone number so if I have any questions about install or use, I will be able to speak to a human...(in the USA) ;-)

Anyone looking to protect their electrical system on their coach and all your expensive toys inside....this is a great solution. It even has a remote display that can be mounted inside the coach.

http://www.progressiveindustries.net/EMSHW50C.asp

Call Robert and he is happy to answer all your questions and you can order direct. 919-462-8280

Eusefull

[takepride]

Eusefull:

Self-installation of the hardwiring is very easy and definitely the way to go, both for convenience and security.

1. At Home Depot, Lowes or Ace purchase a 50 amp stove receptacle and a 50 amp stove cord with plug.

2. With your power unplugged, inverter off and (for good measure) batteries disconnected, disconnect your existing power cord at the junction box near your inverter (it then goes on to your transfer switch mid-coach). Attach the 50 amp receptacle to the end and mount it high, near your bin opening. This will be your emergency disconnect and booster bypass, if needed.

3. The power booster's plug will be connected to this outlet.

4. Attach the new 50 amp stove cord with plug to the junction box where you disconnected the long power cable. The plug will then be inserted into the booster's receptacle.

5. Strap the booster to the floor, wall or ceiling (likely the floor due to weight) with a steel strap or plumbers strap (just so it doesn't shift). Mount it so you can see the lights and reach the plug easily.

If the booster fails or is hit by lightning, you can bypass the booster by unplugging it and directly plugging your new power cord into your new receptacle.

There are pro's and con's to each company's product. The Power Master handles a bit more power boost and protection, but costs a few more bucks (probably worth it). The Hughes Autoformer is readily available and is often on eBay, cheap(er). Both are killed by lightning strikes. Franks Buck Booster can be easily "rebuilt" (fuses) after a lightning strike.

I was able to install mine in about an hour with only simple tools. On my 2003 40 footer I mounted the booster in front of the cable reel bin, lights facing the rear, the receptacle on the upper left wall a few inches from the bin door and strapped the various cords with some single screw conduit straps to the ceiling. It took about an hour (after I found the end of the power cord).

Let me know if you've any questions.

[takepride]

Eusefull:

Another comment. The EMS HW 50C mentioned in your post is only a surge protector, similar to the RV Surge Guard that Alpine installed as an option. It keeps problems with bad electrical pedestals (reverse polarity, bad ground, low power, high power, spikes, surges, etc.) from ruining your coach's components.

It is not a buck booster or line "leveler", it is a surge protector. It's surge protection is desirable and even though redundant with the buck booster, I have both.

A buck booster or power booster, in addition to surge protection, will raise the voltage going into you coach if the pedestal has low voltage. They usually amplify the voltage between 15 and 20%, back up to 120 volts. If the power is lower than 108 volts, it (most) cuts off.

About 70% of the parks I visit have low voltage. My booster gets lots of business. While your coach will likely run okay without a booster, it will treat your coach's components better. It will also prevent frying your control boards on the refrigerator, TV's, heater, air-conditioners, computers, microwave, etc. At some parks it will be the difference between your coach having power and not having power, since the transfer switch may not engage. This has happened to me at several Thousand Trails parks (prior to installation).

The buck booster is one of the best improvements I've made on my last two coaches. It's great insurance and prevents many headaches.

[Eusefull]

Hi takepride and thanks for the tips and info about your buck booster. Where did you order yours from? In your post, is the Lowe's Home Depot a reference to a buck booster?

Eusefull

[takepride]

Eusefull:

I purchased the parts to hardwire the booster from Home Depot.

I purchased my first booster a Power Master online. I found the ad in Highways (Good Sam) Magazine. I purchased my second booster a Hughes Autoformer on eBay in an auction at half price.

At full price I'd definitely buy the Power Master. I had a long talk with the vendor, who also sold the Hughes. I was convinced the Power Master was superior. A friend of mine prefers the Frank's because it can be rebuilt after a strike. (I'm thinking the better boost is more important than the rebuild-ability. They both protect against the strike.)

[Ted III]

I use the "Surge Guard" 50 AMP in line protector. Very convenient and has been very effective. I feel the in-line is a lot easier in many ways than the hard-wired unit especially with the Glendenning cord retractor.www.surgeguard.com I don't use a buck booster. I have always been able to find a better location with the Campground's help to find an acceptable site with acceptable power. Th buck booster can get pretty expensive.

[takepride]

Ted:

You are certainly right about price. The 50-amp boosters are about $500-$550. They can be had on eBay at far less.

However, two things changed my mind a couple years ago.

1. A friend was with us at a park that had fluctuating power. He spent $4500 replacing everything that got fried. The surge protector would likely stop the spikes, but the poor quality of the power affects the "boards" of various appliances and components. Think LCD, plasmas, refrigerator, stereo, furnace, AC, some rheostats, satellite receiver, etc.

2. I went through eight different sites at a Thousand Trails until I found one that would allow my transfer switch to engage. The following month it took four sites at a different park. Of course always late at night when my patience was waning.

That was when my price resistance crumbled.