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Old 05-20-2011, 12:24 AM   #29
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Chuck and Marca, I think I might have a problem similar to the one you did, but my fan is always running--even on cold start-up. The blades are a blur, so it's not just turning slowly, but it's not at full speed either. With the new controller, does your fan now stay off until your engine is warmed up?

My engine's working temps are usually in the 175 to 185 range, unless pulling a grade. The other symptom you mentioned is lower fuel mileage--what do you get now vs. the 2mpg less you were getting before? I'm trying to figure out if this adds up to a fan controller issue. You mentioned temperature sensors so I guess that would be the first thing to check. Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:57 AM   #30
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I think that the fan will run on high speed on cold start up if the dash air conditioner is on. Make sure the a/c is off when checking.
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:49 AM   #31
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Hi Jim--Thanks. A/C was not on, and the fan was not running full-speed on start-up.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:38 PM   #32
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My fan comes on as soon as I cold start the engine even with the a/c off. So I think its always running but at different speeds depending on temp. My running temp are 185 to 195 when not pulling a big hill.
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Old 05-20-2011, 05:31 PM   #33
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Fan speed at idle is supposed to be ~850 rpm per a discussion I had w/WRV when my 06 fan was turning 0 rpm on idle, and in 1st gear, and overheating in traffic. You should be able to see blades but barely.
If you're in the neighborhood I could put the non-contact rpm meter on it and check.
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:46 AM   #34
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Thanks Mike--I think the fan speed at idle is about what you say it should be. The blades are a blur but you can almost see them. The next suspect I guess would be the coolant thermostat. I'm changing the coolant next week, so I can check the thermostat opening temp. That would be a much easier fix that a fan controller.
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Old 05-21-2011, 02:56 PM   #35
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For the price of a T-stat, If I was opening the t-stat housing I'd order two gaskets and one t-stat, put in the new stat and keep the old one + extra gasket for a spare. But that's me.
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:38 PM   #36
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John and Lori,

Sorry for the delay in responding to your questions. When we had the problem, the fan was not on high initially upon engine start up but it seemed that as soon as an event triggered it, it never shut off. Wiggling the wires after initial start up caused it to go to high immediately. Since we have had the new controller, we are fairly sure it is not on high at engine start up and know that the fan is kicking in and out. The constant high pitched noise especially at lower engine speeds is gone.

We will be traveling the next few days, severe weather here permitting, and will be a little more observant as to if it comes on high or not upon startup. We will try it with and without the air conditioner on to check the actual operation.

We haven't had a chance to verify the increase in fuel mileage but hope to do so soon. The Silverleaf indicates that it has improved. Exactly how much we don't know.

Hope this helps. Will keep you posted.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:07 AM   #37
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Since all this talk about temp. I had noticed at hwy speed the temp is below 175. So maybe I also have a problem. I have not noticed any excessive fan noise but the blades are a blur. What to check first? I tried moving the wires on the controller but no change in speed.
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:59 PM   #38
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Hello Twomed. sent an earlier request for offline contact. Could not determine if that attempt work, thought I would try again. my eMail is bcbc5@att.net. regards Cummin's fan control module and your research.
thanks
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:18 AM   #39
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Question

Hi Bunnz, Were you needing some information from TwoMed or Chuck & Marca? I sent a response to your offline request this morning. Thanks, Marca
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Old 01-04-2018, 12:40 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twomed View Post
Test run was all good. Fan operated as designed for about $50 in parts from NAPA and Radio Shack. Basicaly a DPDT relay, temp sensor, diodes (overkill), a resistor and a project box. About $50 versus hundreds. Mine never worked right from day one, bad answers from Monaco and Sauer so decided to do it myself. As always the fail mode is to be constant fan on so there is zero chance of engine damage. I only got to run about 40 miles in heavy interstate traffic so note taking was limited. The 19th we will be running from Tampa to the Keys so I will monitor the results and post at that time. I used a temp sensor that allows engine to run up to 200 then cools to 185. That is actual fan run time, which on the Aladdin show an almost 2 mpg fuel hit. Hyd fans do take a lot of HP!!

More later with a drawing if interested.
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Do you still have drawings of fan controller fix? I am having the same problem and would like to do what you were talking about.
Anything you made would sure help us. Thanks DeBUSK
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Old 01-04-2018, 01:08 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twomed View Post
Test run was all good. Fan operated as designed for about $50 in parts from NAPA and Radio Shack. Basicaly a DPDT relay, temp sensor, diodes (overkill), a resistor and a project box. About $50 versus hundreds. Mine never worked right from day one, bad answers from Monaco and Sauer so decided to do it myself. As always the fail mode is to be constant fan on so there is zero chance of engine damage. I only got to run about 40 miles in heavy interstate traffic so note taking was limited. The 19th we will be running from Tampa to the Keys so I will monitor the results and post at that time. I used a temp sensor that allows engine to run up to 200 then cools to 185. That is actual fan run time, which on the Aladdin show an almost 2 mpg fuel hit. Hyd fans do take a lot of HP!!

More later with a drawing if interested.
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If you have any info about fan controller, please email me at larrydebusk61@gmail.com
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Old 01-05-2018, 05:13 PM   #42
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I've been driving but will respond to your email this weekend.

It works as described in my post above (2011 or so) and temps have never been over 201. Lots of two lane mountain stomping, MT and ID loaded and pulling the H3.
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