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Old 11-05-2010, 05:36 PM   #85
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I was able to align the driver side last 2....

AH ...... JOB DONE!

I guess I got my DIY er's Patch for changing out the rear 5/8th's bolts myself!

Now tomorrow, change the oil- change the transmission filter-

And down the road I go!
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:16 PM   #86
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Congratulations, yes, I think you deserve your DIY patch. Glad to here you are about to hit the road. It nice down here in south Texas. I polished my Harley today, getting ready for a Sunday ride.
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:21 PM   #87
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Wing- you got great nuts!
And bolts!
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:53 PM   #88
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Yes yes... I must admit... It took some nuts to do this job......

...But I must give you some of the credit Engineer Mike.

When I realized my situation, I took a good look at all the threads on this subject. I believe it was you who stated it was a good "DIY er's" Job for someone inclined to....

That is what gave me the motivation...So... Thank you!

First few times I looked at it. I was like.......... "ARE YOU CRAZY"
Then I thought...well Engineer Mike says it can be done!

Then there was number #2 .... HOW QUICK AND BAD DO YOU WANT TO RIDE THE ALPINE???

I think it was more of a feeling of taking out one of those bolts from underneath the vehicle.... {Claustrophobic need not apply for this one.}
Then I had no idea how difficult hand drilling it was going to be.
That reamer is ABSOLUTELY the ticket.Much safer, quicker/straighter and good over and over.. It stronger too.. hard to break it unless you have the catastrophic accident.

I really believe if your going to do it yourself, way -"waay" easier doing it frame rail outward.The amount of work cut out by not having to take all 4 tires off.

There is 1 bolt on the passenger side that is going to take a close quarters drill. A regular gets in the way of the pumpkin shaft.

But 11 out of 12 aint bad!

Lets see..

Bolts/nuts/washers... 60 bucks...
cutting oil .... 8 bucks
reamer ..... 90 bucks
cold @$$ .. free

Getting to ride the Alpine ..... PRICELESS
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:01 PM   #89
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Just a note to let you know that we had our coach in to Redlands Truck for service and they checked out the rear end bolts. They were found to be the correct size. Coach #75316 2005 36'FDDS is A-ok.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:18 AM   #90
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I finally got around to replacing the 5/8 bolts in my rear end hangers. This DIY project ended up costing me more than if I had taken it in to be done. What I gained was the tools to safely remove and reinstall my wheels for future maintenance.
Required tools:
Torque multiplier $180
700 FT LB torque wrench $250
Wheel dolly $110
12 ton Jack stands $ 49
(2) 20 ton Hydraulic Jacks $60
drive Socket set $49
“ hole saw $7

My driver’s side hanger was pushed up and forward as far as possible. It had no signs of moving. The passenger side was pushed up but centered on the 5/8 holes. The dimensions to the front wheel well wall was equal on both sides. I decided to move the driver’s side back 1/16 of an inch to correct a slight tendency of the coach to pull to the right. This may or may not be a good thing. If I detect any crabbing or additional tendency to pull one way or the other I will get a 4 wheel alignment done.

I also chose to align my frame holes and hanger holes. I used some 5/8ID by OD bushings to aid in alignment (thanks for the suggestion Emike). With the wheels off moving the towers was relatively easy using 2 bottle jacks. The hanger holes are larger .800 in diameter which allows for some adjustment. I used an $8 ” hole saw lubed with oil. 1 hole saw easily drilled all 12 holes and it was surprisingly easy. I drilled from the tower side in.

The hardest part of the job was torqueing the bolts. I used my torque multiplier and applied approximately 380 ft LBS of Torque.

While I had the wheels off I bled the brakes. Last year I also bled the brakes but could not get to the outside bleed screws. I was surprised this year when I bled the outside ports how little dark fluid came out. I saw less than a teaspoon of slightly darker fluid come out.





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Old 03-05-2011, 03:48 PM   #91
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Wayne- 'Em'r some nice nuts.

Why so much for the torque wrench? W/my 3.333x net torque multiplier, I can to 380 w/a 1/2" torque wrench pulling 125-130 on the wrench to output the 380 on the business end. Doesn't take that big of a sweaty wad of money for that size TW.
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:18 PM   #92
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EM, I bought the torque multiplier first and it is an EBay cheapie “( Uncle Grubs)” http://shop.ebay.com/uncle-grub/m.html . It has a 60:1 ratio and not recommended for tightening. It does work well for removing the lug nuts. I can tell when I have the Lug nuts close to the proper torque. It amounts to the amount of spring back on the input handle. At about 1/3 turn rotational spring back it is applying approximately 400 FT Lbs. If I was using a torque wrench on the input it would equate to 7.5 Ft LBS to get 450 at the nut. I was not comfortable with that much multiplication giving me accurate torque. That is why I bought a 700 foot pound torque wrench. It is 4 feet long and has a nice plastic case and stores neatly along side of one of my slide out trays. It came to $233 with shipping. The best tool I got for this job was the tire dolly, what a back saver (thanks for the recommendation Dale). I can remove 2 bolts from the handle and the dolly fits neatly under one of my slide out trays. The (2)12 Ton jack stands fit nicely on the side of the HH just behind the overflow bottle.

The nuts do fit well, they fit neatly in the spot face for each hole effectively trapping the nut in that position.
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:38 PM   #93
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Update, we moved from Brownsville to Medina TX today 360 miles. We are staying at Koyote Ranch to do some MC riding in the Hill Country.

Sometimes you get lucky. The 1/16 of an inch I moved the drivers side rear axle toward the back corrected the slight tendency of my coach to pull to the right. I had my wife follow me for 20 miles and no signs of crabbing. It never did before though.
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