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Old 02-28-2010, 12:21 PM   #15
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Rick, I ran a pair of 30 amp breakers to 30 amp outlets (a total of 3, 2 RV one Twist Lock for the house) and from there to the twist inlet on the house and to the transfer switch.

And as I said. since neutral and ground are bonded at the service entrance (main breaker box) in the house.. and since neither of those is switched by my generator transfer switch. .they stay that way.

To be honest the earth ground is only an issue IF, there is an earth ground in the system.. A generator that is not bonded to ground, there is no need for it to be

MAINS are bonded, in several places. hence the need.
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Old 02-28-2010, 12:55 PM   #16
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Hi Greg,
I have this setup at my house. The coach has a full hookup (50 AMP) beside the house. If this really interests you consider hiring a licensed electrician and passing whatever the local codes are for your area. This is what I did. It cost more up front, but one does not run into the concerns mentioned in the previous posts.

I did this in 05. Everything has worked as advertised.

With my 7.5 KW generator I get about 60 AMPS total output (30 AMPS on each leg). This is fine for the 120 VAC needs. It will not do any 240 VAC appliances (HWH, HVAC, etc.). For me, this is okay. For HVAC and HWH, we have what we need in the coach.
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Old 02-28-2010, 03:56 PM   #17
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I thought about doing this, but in our area the power outages mostly run about 4 hours or less. We just head out to the coach & boondock there till the neighbor's lights come on. Probably looks funny w/our coach being the only lights in the 'hood, but it gets boring to watch the TV in the stick house for more than 30 minutes or so when the power is out.
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