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Old 02-23-2012, 08:13 PM   #15
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Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 2,209
Rick - Take the panel off from in front of the passenger seat, the blue wire is in that mess under and behind the dash, at least mine was. I would tone it out to make sure it's not broken someplace along the length of the coach. I would guess the hot wire is fused someplace and it very well may be under the dash again. Look for an inline fuse holder and see if that is it. It also may be tied into the vansco, then I am not sure, there is an LED readout and other diagnostic information on the ACA tech library, you can check there. Hope this helps.
FWIW I use an even brake system to stop the toad, it's wireless, and as such does not need the blue wire to work, just a signal from the unit inside the motorhome. I did have some wiring I needed to get connected in the toad, and then everything worked like it's supposed to. The EB pushes on the brake pedal in the toad, and uses the brake lights on the toad to indicate stopping. I hooked up seperate lights in the jeep for Turn Signals, and they work just fine.

Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:54 AM   #16
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Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
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It is very common, when using a solid state driver to control a DC relay and in some cases even with a switch, to add a diode or two.. I recommend TWO in this case.

On a diode the symbol looks a bit like this ---|<--- (the angle bracket is filled in)

Current, in this diagram flows from - on the left to + on the right.

A diode is hooked across the relay coil so that when the coil is enegrized the diode is REVERSE biased, that is the arrrow points toward the POSITIVE end of the coil

IF you wished a 2nd diode, could be hooked between the control wire and the coil, In this case (Assuming the other end of the relay goes to ground) the diode should point TOWARD the relay from the control box (Forward biased).

A diode, is like a check valve in a water system.

If the relay develops a "negative pressure" as it were, the diode across it releives that pressure, and the optional 2nd diode double insures it does not get back to your computer.

Home is where I park it!
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:34 PM   #17
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chatsworth CA
Posts: 160
Thanks Old, the blue and the white wires were poking out of the large bundle of wires behind the center console. The blue wire is fine. The white wire is too small for anything. There is a mess of black wires coming out of the bundle grounded on the bulkhead and one of them runs to the back of the coach. I did not want to disconnect them all to find out which one ran to the rear so I am running a new 12 gauge wire into the battery compartment. I installed a fuse block and will connect it to the house battery switch.

I did the same thing as you with my Jeep for when it was flat towed but now I have a trailer with electric brakes. The 12 v feed is to charge the little battery that powers the brakes for break-away protection.

Now I need a trailer brake controller. There are a gang on the market. Anybody have any recommendations?

With the help of the Alpine Tech Library I figured out led 9 on the Vansco output powers the trailer's running lights. This is pin 25. I will cut this wire and use the Vansco output to actuate a relay so I have plenty of power. The Vansco only supplies 6 amps. A separate feed, led 8, powers the coach's running lights so you don't lose both.
Rick J Fisher, BW is Judy
2007 Alpine 34FDDS Limited SE
2003 Jeep Rubicon or a 1995 Toyota Tacoma
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:23 AM   #18
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All - Several questions answered by reading all the post herein about the dimmers and LED's. At DRR this year, Kustom Coach was kind enough to trade me the blue/white LED's for the yellow ones and now for the most part the DW is happy. We ordered a new drawer from KC, and he will let me trade all the other yellow ones for B/W ones when in for that modification.

EM you are correct on the dash dimmer, it is PW and when I turn on the new LED's controlled by it, they do not dim, so it works as a switch for those "dome lights" not a dimmer, and yeah I figured since the dash guages are really electronic devices, LED's must be in their someplace. Nice gree color though.

Since the reading/under cabinet lights don't work as I want them too, I am going to remove the dimmer feature and just put in a switch so they are either on or off, since I want them on to read by, and dimming them would not give me anything. I did purchase PW dimmer from a company, but it's at least twice as large as what is presently there, and some cabinet modification would be necessary, so I don't think I'm going to use it, that is 36 dollars wasted maybe. Like EM says, a do it yourself project that takes gobs of money.

Rick - here is a link to the one we used on the PU for our 5th wheel years ago, it's been updated, remember the best quality is always the cheapest. There are level requirements to consider, so try to find a place to mount it which is dead on level, it can be out a tad, but best if its level. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...e-controls.htm

Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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