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Old 03-25-2018, 08:15 PM   #43
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Remember, on shore/generator power the coach/house batteries will be charged first. Once fully charged the relay switches over to charge the chassis batteries. Did the inspector allow time for the house batteries to be charged so chassis battery charging could begin?

It is possible that everything is functioning properly if given enough time to do so.
Pioneer,

The inspector stated that when he tested the house batteries (the coach was hooked up to shore power before he got there) that they were at 13.6V. Initial test of the chassis batteries showed 12.6V; after running the engine, the chassis batteries got to 13.6V.

So I'll try to the disconnect reset procedure recommended. If that doesn't work, I'll replace the Trombetta solenoid mentioned by many on this post.

Is there something else I should be looking at if #19 on the Vansco is lit?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:17 PM   #44
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...so the house bats charge either way, ie, while driving or while on generator/ shore power?. The chassis bats only charge while driving, but not on generator/shore power? Again could be that the Vansco charging logic has momentary lost its way. Turning off the chassis which to rest the Vansco could clear the issue as it controls charging for both banks and is apparently working in one direction [suggests solenoid is still working]. If Vansco reset doesn't work--just to get you home, you can use jumper cables to connect the positive posts for the house and chassis bats over night. Don't need to connect negative posts as bat bank should have common grounds.
Old Scout,

Where exactly is the disconnect switch for the chassis batteries to reset? Just want to make sure I'm trying the right thing first.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:29 PM   #45
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Old Scout,

Where exactly is the disconnect switch for the chassis batteries to reset? Just want to make sure I'm trying the right thing first.

Thanks in advance!
In the battery bay on the left side. It is a silver lever and there should be a label that says chassis disconnect.
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:41 PM   #46
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In the battery bay on the left side. It is a silver lever and there should be a label that says chassis disconnect.
Pioneer,

You never disappoint
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Old 03-25-2018, 09:45 PM   #47
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Pioneer,

The inspector stated that when he tested the house batteries (the coach was hooked up to shore power before he got there) that they were at 13.6V. Initial test of the chassis batteries showed 12.6V; after running the engine, the chassis batteries got to 13.6V.

So I'll try to the disconnect reset procedure recommended. If that doesn't work, I'll replace the Trombetta solenoid mentioned by many on this post.

Is there something else I should be looking at if #19 on the Vansco is lit?

Thanks in advance!
Make sure all the cables are good and clean also. I ended up changing all of them that were connected to the batteries. Look in under the ends were they are crimped, I had several that look good on the surface but were corroded in the crimped area. I would also have all the batteries load tested before I replaced anything. If you have one bad cell in any of them you will not get them to charge right. I’m assuming your inspector check the water leave in them when he check voltage....
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Old 03-27-2018, 06:16 PM   #48
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So the below picture of the Vansco looks like #19 on the output side is lit, but not on the input side. Which side needs to be lit? If the output is the correct light lit, would the chassis battery disconnect switch be the next logical check for the chassis batteries not charging on shore/generator?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-27-2018, 06:36 PM   #49
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No, look back to the comments about the Trombeta, mostly issue. It could also be one or both batteries are bad or cable, but the disconnect switch would shut down almost everything on the coach.
I think the input side is #5, but I will look at mine in a bit when I get home and see.
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Old 03-27-2018, 07:11 PM   #50
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....when I go on these long searches to figure out how things work--I always start at the beginning. Whether on shore power or genset--the inverter/charger produces the 12v power for charging. Begin your trace there--when you no longer find 12v power flowing toward the battery for charging--bingo, there is your problem. Seriously, if you don't follow some sort of fault detection logic, its a snipe hunt..........
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Old 03-27-2018, 09:43 PM   #51
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....when I go on these long searches to figure out how things work--I always start at the beginning. Whether on shore power or genset--the inverter/charger produces the 12v power for charging. Begin your trace there--when you no longer find 12v power flowing toward the battery for charging--bingo, there is your problem. Seriously, if you don't follow some sort of fault detection logic, its a snipe hunt..........
I agree, start at the beginning after checking for the basics. He says that the house batteries are charging and the Vansco is call for the coach batteries to be charged (#19 on).

Inverter charger is working, house batteries charging
Vansco working, sees low voltage of chassis batteries and sends signal

That leaves you with more than likely a bad solenoid, a bad connection, a bad battery bank or all the above. It’s possible that there is a deeper problem but from what I’m reading probably not.

In my case that showed the same statis, I had 12.6 volts at the Trombeta with the coach batteries disconnected. You should also check this with a test light, I wasted a lot of time thinking all was good because there was voltage. There were no amps, would not even light the test light.

Disregard my prior statement about light #5.
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:28 AM   #52
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Get online, & google POP RV they have a 40' 2005, w/78,000mi. somewhere up north, I believe, for under 100,000 bucks.
Dudley Do-Right, '-06Apex40MDTS
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:56 AM   #53
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Get online, & google POP RV they have a 40' 2005, w/78,000mi. somewhere up north, I believe, for under 100,000 bucks.
Dudley Do-Right, '-06Apex40MDTS
Should be under $80K even if it's in good shape. I think Hambone is somewhere below $65K on his.
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:13 AM   #54
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HamboneTHW:
Speedco is good for the services you are getting. Their prices are generally the best around. The fogged window is doable as a DIY project, search for a thread on this forum regarding Dave Root Fogged Window Repair. However, there are several places around that have considerable experience in this area and are reasonably priced. Dave Root in the PNW, RV Fog Dr. in Arkansas, and Suncoast Designers in Florida are three that folks on this forum have used with good results.
Welcome to the Alpine Family!!
RV Glass in Coburg OR is also good, have had several of mine done there, one more to go. They're right across from the Marathon factory if you want to drool over some fabulous rigs.
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Old 03-29-2018, 05:35 PM   #55
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Get online, & google POP RV they have a 40' 2005, w/78,000mi. somewhere up north, I believe, for under 100,000 bucks.
Dudley Do-Right, '-06Apex40MDTS
Dudley,

That is way north of my budget for our first coach. In my opinion, that's also way north of what should be paid. If you add all the options to the coach we are buying, it was right at $300K new in 2005 and NADA shows $75K for average retail. Guess what the max amount my bank will finance is? You guessed it, $75K. Pioneer is pretty spot on with what we are negotiating.

When you factor the price and the fact that this is the only issue the inspector found that requires an actual fix and troubleshooting, I think we found an excellent coach at an even more amazing price.
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Old 03-29-2018, 05:37 PM   #56
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RV Glass in Coburg OR is also good, have had several of mine done there, one more to go. They're right across from the Marathon factory if you want to drool over some fabulous rigs.
Thank you! I wish we were still out that way; beautiful country out there. We are actually only 125 miles from RV Fog Doctor. We will set up an appointment shortly after we take delivery.

And man, those Marathon conversions are disgusting... When I hit the lottery
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