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Old 01-21-2010, 05:45 PM   #15
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Try to find a replacement with a mfg. date of Aug 09 or later. They are SUPPOSED to be better.
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:05 PM   #16
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We notice that the pump light goes out slowly, too. The pump works, and pulses, but here is my observation. It apparently is supposed to have a 65 psi output. When there is a high flow, like from the shower, it doesn't pulse, but when there is a slow flow, like from the bathroom faucet when it's only on a little, it pulses more. I suspect that with a low flow there is a "backup", and the pressure increase causes the pump to "stop", and when the flow catches up, it kicks on again and that's what causes the pulse. It seems to work, though it's just not what I'm used to.
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:46 PM   #17
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Same here: slow dimming.

I was able to finally stop the pulsing by adjusting the center screw (see endless other threads). The adjustment takes a bit of working, just a bit at a time and then re-test. Now it runs great and very good pressure.
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:06 AM   #18
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The Alpine OEM circuit has less than 15 amp wire size spliced into the circuit, an the pump circuit is long as it is a 3-way setup. The ShurFlo docs require a full 15A circuit for the 5.7.

You can use the OEM circuit to power the coil on a standard automotive relay (terminals 85 & 86), and run a new red 12ga wire direct from battery power to the #30 terminal on the relay and red 12ga from terminal #87 to the pump red wire, the ground the pump black wire with a black 12ga. Put an inline fuse on the battery-#30 wire run for safety. This will use the OEM circuit to power the relay which will switch your new 15A capable wire to power the pump. Now more undersized circuit on the pump. Relays are cheap, so screw a spare to the ceiling of the basement above the pump next to the new pump relay, and when the new relay farts out, you just unplug your female spade terminals from the farted out relay to the spare and you are back in business.
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Old 01-29-2010, 01:17 AM   #19
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Thanks for the explanation eMike! I just purchased some two-wire #10 cable at Quartzsite to run from the batteries to the pump.

However, I'd like to add a wrinkle and ask advice:

I really want to add another pump switch to the system for the utility bay. Several gracious folks (Dan Richins and Frank Rouse) have advised me on which Intellitec controller to use, but I am having difficulty wrapping my mind around (and want to avoid) the re-wiring required for the two existing switch locations (WC and dining area), when using an Intellitec. Could you help me here?

I would think I could somehow use the existing wires (without running newer, heavier) via use of relays and possibly even avoid the logic-board of a pump controller. Or at least use an Intellitec without running new wires only replacing the 3-way switches with off/momentary on-switches. I understand I will still need the heavier wire from batteries to pump. Any ideas?

Thanks!
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Old 01-29-2010, 01:54 PM   #20
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The OEM wiring is a "three way switch" setup. I suggest converting that from powering the pump to powering the coil on the relay, and running new #12 or #10 wire w/fuse to power the pump off the load contacts on relay as above.

Then if you want to add a basement switch, you could tap the hot #10 side of the relay's load circuit w/a #16 run thru a new switch and back to the ungrounded (hot) side of the relay coil. This way the relay has the 3-way switch to power the coil, and a separate basement switch that can also power the coil (using 12V from the new #10 cable you added). To facilitate this, you might want an indicator light at the basement switch location that runs off the load side of the relay, indicating the pump is on. The drawback here is that the basement switch could be left on, thereby neutering the 3-way control switch above (hence the light to remind you you don't need to switch the pump "on" from the basement if the 3-way is on, or reminding you to turn basement switch off after using it below). This isn't much of a drawback if you add the light, which you can by installing a Radio Shack LED that doesn't draw significant power. You could add any number of such additional switches (one at the bathroom lavatory for example), and each one is a separate #16 from the new #10 hot thru a switch/LED to the coil of the relay. Radio Shack, Fry's, NAPA, etc. sell switches w/integral LEDs that make this reallly simple.

Using momentary switches to power the Intellitec latching relay is more uniform. Every switch operates the same, push on-or-off depending on whether pump is off-or-on respectively and they work the same at all switch location. But you have to re-wire the 3-way setup to convert those to momentary switches and the wire between to run the latching relay. The 3-way plus additional one-way switch(es) is(are) easier to wire by a fair amount, but you now have two switch logics operating the same pump and one can override the other.
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Old 01-29-2010, 04:43 PM   #21
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One other thought, those of us that full time and have an RO system might want to use a normally closed relay. That way the relay is not energized 24/7.
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:46 PM   #22
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First thanks to everyone for your comments. I thought you'd be interested in our ShurFlo 5.7 "experience". Since December 10, 2009 we have had a total of 6 pumps installed - four 5.7's, one 4.0, and one 3.0. ShurFlo was great and supplied all of them except the first 5.7 we purchased on 12/10. The manager of ShurFlo's customer service ended up having Camping World install a 5.7 with a 30psi accumulator even though the instructions specifically state an accumulator should not be used with the new 5.7s (anything manufactured after 8/09). It is his opinion our R/O system is the culprit, which makes no sense since the R/O is on the front end of the fresh water tank and the pump the back. Can't argue w/him because the final pump has been running for several hours now and hasn't burned up or pulsed once yet like all the others! Time will tell. What an experience this has been. On the plus side - ShurFlo was great and so were the folks at Savannah's Camping World. I would actually go back to this Camping World for service and can't say that about many others. Should this pump fail, I'll let you know what's next.
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:57 PM   #23
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Maybe the newer 5.7 needs a certain amount of dissolved solids to sense water movement?
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:32 PM   #24
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Greetings from Palm Springs,
RO SYSTEM: The RO system has nothing to do with your pump problems. The RO system puts water into the tank and the pump pumps it out.

PUMP FAILURES: I honestly don't know how ShurFlo stays in business with so many warranty failures. We have been thru 8 pumps in 4 years. We put in the high $ two gallon super duper stainless steel accumulator tank and think our pump problems are over. Now you can get half way thru a shower before the pump ever comes on. The pump duty cycle has been greatly reduced.
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Old 01-29-2010, 09:13 PM   #25
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Basil, I was just joking about the dissolved solids. My 5.7 is on year 5 and still going strong. But then mine is the pre-dissolved solids model that is not affected by the RO system.
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:18 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne R View Post
Basil, I was just joking about the dissolved solids. My 5.7 is on year 5 and still going strong. But then mine is the pre-dissolved solids model that is not affected by the RO system.
It is strange how the pump in one coach will last much longer than the next. Makes you wonder if some of the failures are related to how much the pump is used. We have lived full time in this coach since we got it 4 years ago and use RO water out of the tank exclusively which puts more run time on the pump. The dishwasher and Splendide are on every day. However, I think the Fullers who also full time in an identical coach are only on their 2nd pump. Go figure.
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:16 AM   #27
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Basil, same here full timing since we bought the coach in August of 04. I installed the RO stem in spring of 06 along with dishwasher..
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:31 AM   #28
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I've had the Shurflo 5.7 model since I got the coach April 2007 (Sully's old coach). Apparently the original pump had been "removed " while the coach was at the dealer's in southen CA. They tried to install the cheapy $69.95 model when I got it up here in OR but I insisted on the 5.7 as the original instruction sheet was in the coach. I full time and use it constantly as others do. No RO system and the pump is still going strong. Just my 2 cents plain.
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