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Old 05-20-2010, 10:11 AM   #71
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What about disabling the built in pressure switch and putting some sort of in line swath in. Maybe a Well type pressure switch could be teed in.
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Old 05-20-2010, 11:44 AM   #72
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Don- Most failed units go back to ShurFlo thru the trade-in, as the 3 year from born-on date warranty covers the vast majority of failures. If not for the 3 yr warranty, this pump would have been abandoned by OEMs and end users long ago. You have to find one that died after the 3 year limit, and then you've got a conversion candidate. A friend gave me his old dead pump.

Wayne- exactly what I'm thinking. Issue will be how to tap the pump head for pressure to cycle the electric, as in its a sort of ABS plastic and the wee switch used by ShurFlo looks custom made for the application. I'll play w/it when I get back to EngineerMike's Skunk Works. Still pondering on method for thermal cutout which would be needed in case of operator error (run dry condition; left City/Fill valve on Fill w/pump on & walked away; etc.).
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Old 05-20-2010, 11:51 PM   #73
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Seems like all the warranty issues would be sending a message to the company to get the bugs worked out so the things last. My original pump worked fine it just started leaking at the head. I asked about a new head assembly the person at SF, said it was not repariable, the new heads would not fit the old pump. I am going to use it for a Hydro/Aqua Hot pumpout unit when I have to empty the main boiler to work on a unit. Nothing wrong with the motor at all.
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Old 05-29-2010, 01:23 AM   #74
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All – I fixed the pressure on the SF water pump. Sure as shooting, the pressure adjustment was right where everyone said it was supposed to be (NOTE: Old pump did not have pressure switch adjustment screw-which leads me to say it was better design as it worked perfectly and lasted from 2006 to March 2010).

Turned in the screw all the way in the clockwise direction, and then backed off 1/4 of a turn maybe a pinch more and all is well. However this pump does not make the same kind of noises as the original one, and spins up to full speed slower. I believe they have cheapened up the whole assembly to make it more cost effective. So if it dies before its born date, SF will honor the warranty. If it lasts longer, then will have no complaints. Was a painless procedure, except for crawling into the smarbed area, lying on my back and working in tight space.

I also Replaced bad nozzle on the Hydro Hot, was not as hard as I figured, but having taken the class at AQ made all the difference. Don’t like one connector block in the HH unit, as vibration could make the high limit switch connection come lose, but won’t change it until I see if there is a better way to make those connections. Some day the plastic drain connection is going to leak, and when it does I will have to replace that with brass, for now it is fine.
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Old 05-29-2010, 02:21 AM   #75
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Monty- don't throw the old pump away. I may be able to fix it on the cheap. See you in Salem.
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Old 05-29-2010, 02:32 AM   #76
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Have it in the garage, in the box the new one came in. I want to try to fix it because it is much better than the replacement. I will try to remember to bring it with me.
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Old 05-29-2010, 07:54 PM   #77
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Shur-Flo large strainer makes a big difference in the operation. It took most of the pulsing out and the pressure is quite constant.
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Old 05-30-2010, 05:32 PM   #78
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Ted III,
Would you be more specific. What part should we ask for if we contact Shur-Flo?
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:26 PM   #79
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According to the Shurflo manual, the strainer is model # 254-266. Many RV parts places have them. I got mine at a marine parts store, which is relatively close to my house. The strainer is quite a bit bigger than the strainer that WRV put on.
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Old 05-31-2010, 01:52 AM   #80
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I was in Camping World yesterday and they had them on the shelf. WRV used a smaller strainer as a standard. The Extreme strainer has over double the volume, but I'm not sure any larger flow-thru capacity. I pulled both apart at a trailer supply joint one day and checked the fittings on each end and they are the same. The large one was $21 and the smaller ~$10, so WRV saved a Hamilton by installing the junior size.

I pulled the pressure switch assembly off my currently-defunct-and-awaiting-exchange 12/08 pump today for grins, as well as the mounting frame that contains the genius electronics. The electronics are obviously redesigned in their entirety on the later pump (previous pump vivisected is 10/05). Old pump has 4-wire mini-cable from potted electronics to the pressure switch in the head; new pump has two 14ga or so black wires from potted electronics to pressure switch, and the pressure switches are completely different with the older one permanently sealed to the pump head (no way to leak) and the newer one sealing via o-ring to a small chamber in the head for pressure sensing. Also the new genius electronics has a female mini-6-pin connector in projecting out of the potting along w/some other new stuff covered w/the epoxy. Obviously ShurFlo was continuously revamping this pump as the failure rate presented.

Tomorrow I will be installing & testing the 05 pump w/analog control setup. If it works, that will be my new secondary pump, and i'll install a relay to a switch in the coach to switch pumps when "5.7 The Third" goes loony. Don't want to have to get out of the shower to switch pumps next time; that scared the neighbors.
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Old 06-01-2010, 02:08 PM   #81
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Well, the 05 pump is shot, so no amount of revised controls will make it work. Either the valving is too worn or the motor, even tho it runs, won't put out enough rpm's. No-load the 05 pump draws 1.4A, the 08 pump draws 3.6A, so I'm guessing its the motor. In either case important parts are worn out.

I'm kinda spoiled by the higher pressure of the 5.7, so reverting to the 40psi aux pump I'm using is disappointing as it cycles down to ~30 then back up. I have a 110V pump that is good for 60psi which I could run off the pressure switch I installed. That'll require a 12V/110V relay in the A/B pump switching, but I think I have on laying around here somewhere. More projects, more projects...
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Old 06-19-2010, 04:30 PM   #82
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I installed a secondary pump (Shurflo Revolution 2088 as secondary to the OEM 5.7) w/remote control A/B switch for switching between pumps, in a customer's coach this last week. Started w/a shut-off valve for the water tank, then a Y, then strainers (woulda used the Extreme strainer ahead of the Y but didn't come w/correct fittings, so 2 strainers was easier), then pumps, then Y, then check valve so coach plumbing doesn't drain back when fiddling w/pump plumbing.
A/B switch for electrical is wired thru a remote control key-fob type device.

Initially I took power for the remote control (milliamps) off the pump circuit itself. That didn't work. There is a substantial feedback into the 12V off the 5.7 pump circuit that caused the remote to reset constantly (on-off-on-off-on-...) and its OFF function wouldn't work. Fishing around I found wiring for (probably) Hydro-Hot that wasn't used, and a #10 red wire that was constantly hot; turns out this comes from the Water Heater 12V fuse in the coach- pull that fuse & no 12V. The #10 had a cut end & exposed copper, tho it was somewhat tied out of the way of shorting unless you bumped or moved the wire bundle. I put a covered spade end on it & ran its 12V to the remote & Voila! circuit worked like a champ.

The feedback problem surprised me; I thought the remote was malfunctioning, but before trying a new remote I tried a new 12V source. That's when I realized it was the 5.7 noise interfering. I didn't have an oscilloscope on my Fluke meter or I would have checked the feedback form. I'm wondering if Shurflo is making its own bad 12V out of good 12V, and frying their own pumps.

The 2088 pump works well; 55psi shutoff (not variable speed) but provides pulsing when running a faucet less than wide open. I think it would work great with an accumulator. Its only 3gpm vs. the supposedly 5.7, but since the 5.7 is erratic sometimes in delivering full pressure/flow the overall quality of delivery looks comparable, perhaps until you have a shower & some high usage at a sink simultaneously. As a secondary pump in case of 5.7 failure I think it is a good replacement. It has an improved rubber mounting and runs fairly quiet; less noise than the 5.7 @ WOT.
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:57 PM   #83
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Basil & all, I believe the 2006 and before pumps are better quality pumps, based on my experience. Our pump lasted from the date of mfg (June 06)(we purchased May 08) through March 2009, when I changed it because it was leaking around the mating surface of the motor and pump. It was much better than the 5.7 Smart Sensor pump I purchased and installed to fix the leak. The original pump had no lag time, and the new one has about 1/2 to 1 second lag time before it starts. I have adjusted it according to instructions here. Once it spins up, it works ok, but it is not as smooth as the original pump. Someone (maybe shurflo when I called them) said the electronics are made by someone else, and that could be the reason, as I would bet they are not specifically designed for the pump, just something off the shelf to save money. Consequently, the pump is not as good as previous models, nor as responsive.

ALL PLEASE NOTE: The manual specifically states it is not to be USED FOR RO SYSTEMS, not rated for continuous duty. You should find another pump for RO use. So if you are experiencing a lot of pump problems and you use the RO system that might be the reason.
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Old 06-24-2010, 07:13 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Rv'er View Post
ALL PLEASE NOTE: The manual specifically states it is not to be USED FOR RO SYSTEMS, not rated for continuous duty. You should find another pump for RO use. So if you are experiencing a lot of pump problems and you use the RO system that might be the reason.
I suspect they are saying not to use the pump for continuous duty to push water thru a RO membrane, not pump RO water out of a storage tank.

I have gone thru 8 5.7 pumps in 4 1/2 years of full time living in the coach. Since installing the big two gallon stainless steel accumulator tank, I have had no failures. Knock on wood.

I installed one of the big strainers and it hung down so low that the end of the Smart-Bed knocked it off and flooded my basement. Not wanting to replumb the system, I took it off. Since nothing but RO water goes thru the pump, I see no problem.
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