Quick Tips & Easy Mods- Alpine Style

[Old Scout]

Re-design dash A/C--2003 MDTS:
I am not the first to think of this or to execute it, but I finally re-designed my dash A/C by moving the condensor from the radiator stack in the rear and placing it in the fender-well on the passenger side, in front of the wheel well [note: my coach is a mid-door]. I then added electric fans controlled by the compressor clutch feed wire to provide air flow during ops.

Basic problem with the old design is that 03 and earlier Alpines use a wax valve to control the engine fan so there is no interface between the fan and the A/C system's need for air flow. Result--poor air flow thru the condensor and recurring freon over pressure. During the change over, I also discovered that some of the desiccant pellets from the filter/dryer had broken free and were partially blocking the expansion valve.

Key challenge to the redesign was snaking a new A/C hose from the compressor in the rear engine compartment to the front fender-well. The fuel and water tanks make for a very close fit with the c-channel in the frame. Also discovered that atleast on my coach, there was no apparent mechanism to cycle the compressor based on ambient or evaporator temps so my compressor was running continuously with the A/C select switch in the on position. This could be a wiring issue at the control head in the dash, but I decided to add a pre-set thermal switch on the evaporator suction line to create optimum compressor cycles....

[MKelley]

Great Job Scout!!!!!

[Old Scout]

Thanks Mike--your experience with this issue was my inspiration to finally tackle it!

[DrDaveMA]

We are currently at a campground in Gulf Shores, AL. There have been several cold nights (below freezing) while the hydro hot will keep the coach warm all night on diesel, it will not keep up on electric only. In order to keep from having to run the diesel all night I added a 10 gauge, 25' extension cord for a 1500 watt fireplace/space heater. We have a FDTS that has a pantry in the middle of the coach so I dropped the cord through the floor into the utility bay and out to a 20 amp auxiliary outlet on the pedestal. Now with it kept on low and the hydro hot zone 2 set normally the electric in the hydro hot is able to keep up and the coach stays cozy even when it went to 18 degrees the other night.

As soon as we get home and I have all my tools, I will mount it into the cabinet and install a receptacle in the open bay. We loose the large opening (originally designed for the dish washer currently used to store paper towels) and 1 drawer but it looks nice AND keeps the coach warm without overloading any existing circuits.

The fireplace we used is at Home Depot, currently on sale for $159!




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[DrDaveMA]

Here is a picture of the fireplace at night.


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[DrDaveMA]

I have also installed LED's above the living room slide and in the pantry. They both have remote controls and dimmers.



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[bslocum]

where did you get the led lights very nice job bob slocum

[bslocum]

where do you buy the led lights bob slocum

[DrDaveMA]

The LED's are in a 16' strip and the RF controls are from Amazon, the manufacturer is Lighting EVER, controllers $26, LED strip $10. I run them off the coach 12 volts.


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[tjshively]

I have attach a photo showing how I attached a helper spring to master cylinder arm to aid in it's retraction. I had a major brake problem because the master cylinder or brake pedal did not retract fully. This might help, although drilling a hole in the pivot post and installing a grease fitting [I also did this] is the best way to prevent a problem. The springs are just a little helper.

[bcbowers]

Over a year ago our Freedom 458 "lost its magic smoke" and we replaced it with the Xantrex Freedoom SW2012 full sine wave inverter/charger. It required a new SCP and associated network cable (PITA!).

We never dry camped because I didn't trust the old AGS to keep the batteries charged. And, it was quite limiting as far as configuring it (little control, no absolute time reference, and the 11.5V threshold is NOT appropriate!!!). The new Xanbus AGS product solves those issues and can be integrated into the new SCP.

I just completed the installation and testing. Here's some supporting information:

Old AGS Panel -
Attachment 90090

Old AGS Controller -
Attachment 90091

New Xanbus AGS Install -
Attachment 90092
Attachment 90093

Using the old & new AGS manuals, I created a wiring conversions:
AGS Wiring Conversion.pdf

The old AGS wiring harness was helpful in that the individual wires have their assigned function printed right in the wire:


I cut the old wiring harness back one wire at a time using the length of the new harness as a guide in case I decided to mount the new AGS where the old controller was mounted (next cabinet to the left). I also used #18 crimp-on quick connects typically found at an auto parts store to support troubleshooting (which became very important).

My testing started by selecting the "Manual On" & "Manual Off" modes to verify that the new AGS could start & stop the gen directly. I then set the start trigger voltage at 13.0V (a little high but didn't take long to occur) with a stop trigger condition of battery float followed by disconnecting the shore power. Lastly, I set the Duo Therm thermostat for AGS On with the temperature low enough to cause the AC to activate followed by disconnecting shore power.

I am a "Happy Camper"!!!

If anyone has questions please PM me at your convenience.

[bcbowers]

Sorry, had a problem with the attachments ...

Old AGS Panel:


Old AGS Controller:


New AGS System:


Harness Wiring Conversion:
AGS Wiring Conversion.pdf

[DrDaveMA]

Bob, I did the same upgrade about a year ago, just a caution, if you manually start the gen with the gen switch up front, it will not continue to run until you set the AGS to manual (from auto start).


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Dave, Bobbi and Fenway

[bcbowers]

Thanks Dave ... good to know! I only "plan" to use the "automatic" mode when dry camping which we really don't like to do. The new AGS gives me peace of mind that we could dry camp even during the hot summer and be assured that the gen will start as necessary to keep the batteries charged and the humanoids cool. Didn't have that confidence with the old AGS.