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Old 02-22-2009, 03:12 PM   #15
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Gail & John: Thanks for the kind words. Rest assured, I'm still thinking.

Ted III: I have used X10 thru the computer but usually only during Xmas to control all the lights (nothing fancy, just on and off), and also during vacations to make the house look lived in. I use the SmartHome PowerLinc Controller Model 1132CU along with some free X10 software.

takepride: You've taken it one step more than me! I just leave the 2-button key fob velcro'ed to the bottom of the bedroom cabinets so we can reach up and turn on the heater while lying in bed. I hadn't yet thought of another purpose for the second channel.

You're right about the Scare light being obnoxious. I tried putting some tape over a portion of the inside of the lens to try to tone it down but the DW is complaining that the tape looks "hokey". So, now I need a new plan. Ultimately, I do wish we had a "door light" like we did on the Trek which shined mostly down. Then I'd wire that and the grab handles together and just leave the Scare light off. But, that's a project for another day ... the current project is installing flat screen TV's front and rear. The front is done (with a Visio 32" model) and the rear remains to do with a Visio 22" unit.

Cheers to all, keep the good ideas coming!
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:37 PM   #16
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Mike and Mike,

As I reported on another thread, I put LED lights in my scare lights. One nice thing about those particular lights is that you can use anywhere from one strip of 3 LED's to six strips of 3 LED's. I used 6 to duplicate the light output of the old bulb. If you want less light, try using maybe 3 of them. It doesn't solve the light focused down versus out, of course. But it would be less light and far less power.

"Hokey" tape is cheaper than LED's however!
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Old 03-13-2009, 06:48 PM   #17
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Quick tips and easy mods---scare light

Why not try adhesive backed aluminum foil tape commomly seen to seal joints on hot air ducts or water heater exhaust pipe. Should work nicely
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Old 03-13-2009, 06:52 PM   #18
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Mike & Mike Why not use adhesive backed alluminum foiltape commonly used to seal seams on hot air ducts or gas water heater exhaust pipe
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:41 PM   #19
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Heitzenroder View Post
2006 Alpine Coach
Within 25,000 miles I had both 90 degree 4 ply four inch elbows split on the inside radius. The first one that split is near the Turbocharger, and the other elbow is on the upper right side.
The result is loss of power and black exhaust!

The best place to purchase the elbow is direct from Purosil, the mfg. in Corona, CA. The customer service phone number is 951 271 3900
1) What year is your coach and which engine do you have?
2) Are you talking about turbo charger air hose, water hose or what?
3) Do you have Purosil or WRV part numbers?

Thanks
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:56 AM   #20
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I am not crazy about all of WRV's white switch and receptacle covers. I haven't found an easy solution to the switches yet, but here is what I did for the kitchen receptacles.

How it was, faucet is from Depot or Lowes.


The small tabs on the side of the recpt have to be pushed in to remove the back cover.


The recpt on the rear of the counter was not an easy one to do. Here is how it looked when I pulled it out.


Here is after I changed it to the dark brown recpt.


Here is finished job.
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:49 PM   #21
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Hey Dale,

Don't know about the recepticle, but John loves your faucet!!

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Old 08-09-2009, 11:32 PM   #22
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Dale:

Where did you find the protected receptacle? I've looked a few places and can only find the stick-home style. RV store?
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:17 PM   #23
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I was staying at Trailer villa in Redwood City and there was a RV supply right next door. Here is a link to their website. ideal rv trailer supply I had done some searching with no luck until I stopped there.
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:56 PM   #24
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Nothing listed in their catalog, but I'll give them a call. Thanks Dale!
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:39 AM   #25
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Is this the outlet (if you order it in brown)?
Any travel trailer supply joint should be able to order these if they don't have them in stock.
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:11 AM   #26
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Ahh, yes, very similar. This is the type my old Vectra had. They are a one-piece and the screw heads show, but they work. The Alpine's use the clip-on "Decora" trim plate and the screws are hidden. I'd like to find ones that match the originals. They came from somewhere.

Camping World don't be havin' none.

New Note:

eMike, you were on the right track. Here is the correct receptacle:

http://www.dyersonline.com/Products/...es__54713.aspx

A bit cheaper here:

http://www.adventurerv.net/speedwiri...te-p-3907.html

Comes in white, ivory or brown, both sites.
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:04 AM   #27
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Dale, the faucet is a Delta if I'm not mistaken, we are looking for one to replace the kitchen one which leaks. Delta has one I like, but the BH balks at 258, so on Thursday she received a 50 gift card for Home Depot, so now the 258 does not look so bad. The magnetic head is the cat’s meow. Nothing personal but I liked the white receptacles better, and easier to see at night. What I would like to see if anyone has come up with a nightlight solution for the water closet. It's dark in there at 3 am. Saw some LED stick up lights but clashed with the cherry wood cabinets. No 110 Volt power in there, and I don't want to just drill a hole because I don't know how WRV ran all the wiring and water lines. Our WC is on PS across from the Shower, and we have the queen bed. It's a 40 MDTS model.
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:57 PM   #28
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Monty:

Just put one of those stick on LED lights on the INSIDE of a cabinet door. That's easy to find in the dark. Open, tap, viola!
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