Community Forums

Renipladlo · 09-11-2009, 11:47 PM

Yep, that is what I'm going to do, and I already know which cabinet door I am going to use, so it does not shine in my eyes.

takepride · 09-13-2009, 11:01 PM

It's such good advice, I might even follow it myself. LOL!

Renipladlo · 09-20-2009, 11:15 PM

Had some helpful thoughts:

To safeguard the battery terminals, the positive terminals should be covered so you don't accidently short something against them. One way to cover them would be to take an old inner tube and cut out some pieces shaped like a cross (+). You then take an arch punch the same size as the positive terminal and make a hole in the middle between all the arms of the cross. You then remove the cable on the positive terminal, and place the piece of rubber on the terminal, and then put the cable back on. Then just fold the four corners over the top the terminal, using scotch liquid rubber tape to hold it together. You can buy the Scotch Liquid Rubber tape at Lowes or Home Depot or any good electrical supply store.

When I clean up my battery compartment I don’t want to get shocked with all the non-covered terminals in there. So first (duh) I turn off the master switches. Then I take a piece of cardboard which is nice and long, but just wide enough to cover all the battery’s and terminals all the way to the rear wall (really side wall, but the one toward the center of the coach) and place it over all those terminals. This way I can work on the sides of the compartment, and as I need to I pull it out in stages so I can work on one pair of batteries at a time. As I work from the back toward the outside, I am always covered on the area I have not gotten too yet, and working out, I am just over the area I need to be. Once I am working on the pair of batteries closest to the outside of the coach, I remove the cardboard. I have another piece under my knees so I don’t scrape them up. Anything that provides insulation value would work, but thick cardboard also allows me to lean on it while I working on pairs of batteries toward the back of the compartment. It’s also not expensive and easy to replace after I get it dirty.

I know we alpine owners are fussy about our coaches, but I cannot tell you the times I have seen owners of other Motorhomes with their front wheels hanging out in space with no support under them. Our MH’s manuals require us to keep our front and rear wheels supported in spots which are unlevel and might put the wheels in the air. For those time when I must be in an unlevel spot, or in my driveway for instance, I keep two pieces of 4 X 10 about 14” long with me, and especially at home, so I can drive up on it, so my wheels are not out in space. I keep a 2X8 or 2X10 handy for each side as well, and make a ramp out of the two different height boards on each side, either pulling up or backing up on the 2X8 and then the 4X10. Cheap, and if you go around to construction sites and ask, scrap lumber is available for free especially when they are building houses near you.

Renipladlo · 10-08-2009, 12:02 AM

All – The engine coolant tank is tucked way up under the door into the engine compartment, which makes it almost impossible to add coolant. I have given this a lot of thought to overcome the engineering shortcoming by WRV, so I have had to come up with something to assist this and make it easier. Here is my suggestion and it works for the genset coolant as well.

Go out and purchase a large household (like the ones at restaurants) catsup squeeze bottle and then put a clear plastic tube inside the spout. When you add coolant to the bottle and then put the tube/cap back on, all you need to do then is squeeze and the coolant would come up the plastic tubing. I use this method to put chain and bar oil in my chainsaw, so it does not spill all over (+20 years on the same bottle). Plastic tubing is something that can be had at HD or Lowes, and almost any kitchen supply has those catsup plastic bottles. Get a piece of tubing that is a little bigger in diameter than the hole in the spout (so coolant does not go around the space between the tube and spout), or if you have to cut the spout, then stick the tubing up inside first so you can gauge the hole size to be cut. A longer piece of tube than the bottle (12-18”) since you want the tube almost to the bottom of the bottle so when you squeeze you have all the volume the bottle holds, plus you might have a tight spot or a longer reach for the engine coolant fill.

You can set up a second bottle (get the mustard one-color difference so you don’t get mixed up which one does what), and use it for the genset oil fill as well. It would work for the main engine but might have to be refilled a few times to add enough oil if it’s real low. A sharpie felt pen will mark those bottles as well, but the oil might take it off.

Rich and Cork · 10-08-2009, 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renipladlo

All – The engine coolant tank is tucked way up under the door into the engine compartment, which makes it almost impossible to add coolant. I have given this a lot of thought to overcome the engineering shortcoming by WRV, so I have had to come up with something to assist this and make it easier. Here is my suggestion and it works for the genset coolant as well.

Go out and purchase a large household (like the ones at restaurants) catsup squeeze bottle and then put a clear plastic tube inside the spout. When you add coolant to the bottle and then put the tube/cap back on, all you need to do then is squeeze and the coolant would come up the plastic tubing. I use this method to put chain and bar oil in my chainsaw, so it does not spill all over (+20 years on the same bottle). Plastic tubing is something that can be had at HD or Lowes, and almost any kitchen supply has those catsup plastic bottles. Get a piece of tubing that is a little bigger in diameter than the hole in the spout (so coolant does not go around the space between the tube and spout), or if you have to cut the spout, then stick the tubing up inside first so you can gauge the hole size to be cut. A longer piece of tube than the bottle (12-18”) since you want the tube almost to the bottom of the bottle so when you squeeze you have all the volume the bottle holds, plus you might have a tight spot or a longer reach for the engine coolant fill.

You can set up a second bottle (get the mustard one-color difference so you don’t get mixed up which one does what), and use it for the genset oil fill as well. It would work for the main engine but might have to be refilled a few times to add enough oil if it’s real low. A sharpie felt pen will mark those bottles as well, but the oil might take it off.

What I use is a plastic gear oil pump you can buy at the auto parts stores. It threads on to the antifreeze bottle.

Renipladlo · 10-08-2009, 11:32 PM

Hmm, good idea, but the plastic bottle is less technology, and less things to hook but I will look at one next time I am the store, I might change my mind.

takepride · 10-10-2009, 01:35 AM

Is that pump battery operated? (No, not the coach's battery. LOL)

Renipladlo · 10-11-2009, 12:55 AM

Ok, I'm getting old, and today was working around the coach, checking on the spare fluids I carry, and low and behold, I ran across my first thought when adding coolant to the Genset or the coach. I purchased a turkey baster, (see this link http://www.chefsresource.com/turkey-baster.html) - and although I have not used it yet, that is what it's sitting next to the coolant for. The aforementioned catsup bottle would also be a good idea. So would a squeeze battery filler device. Some simple little something, not high tech, don't need a bunch of different parts, just the coolant bottle and a fill device. I also use Fleetguard ES Complete coolant since it's already got the additive in it, and is already 50/50 mix. Costs a little more, but keeps the coolant relatively stable until I have changed it according to Cummins maintenance schedule. I will have to ask the neighbor to start saving gallon milk jugs for me; I think I will need about 20 or so, but then I got a while.

mattinmt · 12-09-2009, 10:56 PM

I have done a total remodel on my 2000 40' Alpine Coach. Take a look at our coach. Alpine Coach Remodel Pics.

I also added 185 gallons of fuel. I run on waste Veggie Oil. Great way to travel for free.

I hope you in joy the pictures.

I have also remodeled a 1998 Alpine coach. With veg conversion. 1998 Alpine Coach Remodel

gjstacy · 12-10-2009, 08:55 AM

Matt,

That coach looks awesome! Did you strip the wallpaper before painting the walls? Either way, how did you prep the walls? Love Bella's bedroom!

Where do you get the veggie oil?

mattinmt · 12-10-2009, 11:49 AM

I just prime it with a NO VOC primer and then I used a NO VOC paint. Not much prep, just taping off the windows and ceilings. I remove all the bulky shade holders. Then I install the shades to the walls and the cabinets. We also put up new curtains to give it a homey feel.

Veggie Oil: I get all my fuel from restaurants. I collect it from them then filter it with my on board filtration system. More about us. Link

Matt

Loctite · 12-20-2009, 11:15 AM

Matt,

Awsome job, on both coaches. We purchased a 36' 1998 from some friends in August with the blond interior and have been working on accents to color it up. We've used some wall paper here and there and also covered the valances with fabric. We're also using colorful accent rugs and pillows also.

But, the paint idea is very appealing to us. Can you tell me more about the paint you used, maybe a link to it.

Also, did you do the hardwood flooring?

Dan

takepride · 12-21-2009, 02:21 PM

Loctite:

When I painted the interior of my last coach I washed the walls with TSP first, then applied one coat of KILZ Total primer (not to cover, but to adhere) and then used two coats of a good quality paint (Ralph Lauren from Home Dumpy). The result was amazing and very washable. Since the surfaces are smaller, you can even try various special effects. I did a faux leather door. Looked neat.

I have also found success in putting a coat of water-based urethane over the paint. It works very well to help cleanup and protect from chipping. Over flat paint it leaves a satin to semi-gloss finish. I haven't been able to find a varnish that will leave a totally flat finish.

If you have any exposed (high traffic area) walls that have painted surfaces that extend to the floor, you might consider covering the bottom 30-36" with a "wainscot". Sheet-types work best, with a low-profile chair rail above. Saves a lot of paint smudges and scrapes.

If you use wallpaper, use a highquality paste/adhesive that's good for bathrooms and kitchens. They hold up against the heat and humidity better.

We also added some wall-sized mirror, custom cut to fit certain spaces. Use the thinner (1/8"?) and have the edges sanded.

Good luck! Post pictures!

Loctite · 12-21-2009, 10:48 PM

Takepride, thanks for the additional information. We are really excited to get started on this project but will probably have to wait until spring to get it started.

Doing something like this to the inside of our coach will definately turn it more into our home rather than our motor home. If definately livens it up and lord knows our's needs it.

We'll post up what we come up with.

Dan & Tina