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Old 04-27-2011, 12:13 AM   #71
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Monty:

Don't forget these can also be attached to the ceiling of the bin. Though my pictures don't show it, I have several short ones in the bin behind the utility bay that are attached to the bottom of the floor. They butt up against the rails and end an inch before the door. This keeps small items inside the tubes during travel and really increase the storage. Think sewer parts, electrical adapters, extra pliers, latex gloves, all the fun stuff. I fashioned these from the excess pieces from the longer installs.

I am still planning to install slide out beds, but have found these storage tubes even more valuable than I originally thought.
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Old 05-01-2011, 01:34 PM   #72
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All - was catching up on the mess on my desk and came across the Current months Costco Magazine. It has a nice article in it on the Valley Forge Flag Company (www.valleyforgeflag.com). Now many of us proudly fly old glory, but where we purchase her is my concern, this company make the flag here in the US, when so many I see it various stores are "made in china", which is an insult to our country. So next time you need flag supplies, chech out this company, first keeping american citizens working and buying old glory near a place where she flew when we fought for out independence.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:30 AM   #73
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We purchased out flagpole and flags from Telescoping Flagpole and Flags by Uncommon USA

They are made in the US and I have seen them at FMCA, Good Sam and Quartzsite rallies. The quality is incredible. And the pole stores nicely in my new tube storage.
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:56 AM   #74
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Loose Wires Everywhere

I had a 2002 as my first Alpine and the terminal block in the Onan generator burned up due to loose wires. I replaced it and proceeded to tighten wire wherever I could find them.
When I bought my 2005 Alpine I tightened wire connections everywhere again. At the Gen Terminal Block I was able to tighten 1 to 2 turns on every lug -- the same on the transfer switch. The 110VAC stuff seemed OK, but all the 12VDC stuff was really loose.
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Old 05-04-2011, 07:19 PM   #75
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Yeah, looking for another problem, I pulled the cover off mine today and checked them. They were tight, but I tweaked them all the same.
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Old 05-07-2011, 11:25 AM   #76
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RV NOW with Jim Twamley: Lemon Pledge Good For Wood And The RV Toilet

For those folks who's toilet does not hold water. Nice Tip, hope it helps.
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Old 05-07-2011, 11:41 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Rv'er View Post
RV NOW with Jim Twamley: Lemon Pledge Good For Wood And The RV Toilet

For those folks who's toilet does not hold water. Nice Tip, hope it helps.
Thanks, Old Rv'er! What a timely tip, as we've been experiencing just this problem. I'm going to try it next week when we are in our RV heading over to Mammoth for our SoCal rally!
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:13 PM   #78
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OK, I tried the Lemon Pledge toilet seal solution...with mixed results. Initially, it seemed to work, but then after several uses, the seal started to leak again. I guess I'll have to try again, and maybe do a better job this time.
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Old 05-21-2011, 01:39 PM   #79
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It's not a fun task, but the only way to really fix the toilet seal problem is to bite the bullet and get a new seal kit/s. The kits are relatively inexpensive and while you're at it you might as well go all the way and do the floor seal as well. I went through the various band-aide cure processes six months ago and finally did the complete re-seal and results are well worth the effort.
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:06 PM   #80
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The chemical in the furniture polish that is doing the work is silicone. For a better fix, go to an automotive parts store and by a can of the most concentrated silicone spray you can find. Usually I can get a week or more out of the flush valve before I have to give it another quick spray. Only takes 10 seconds to do.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:52 PM   #81
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Take note, most automotive silicone sprays have some kind of petroleum component to them, which will breakdown the seal and could hurt the tank in large enough concentrations. I would purchase 3M Dry Silicone lube, which I don’t think has any petroleum component to it, and see if that works. If nothing else you can use it every six weeks or so to lube the shiny part of the hydraulic jacks and keep them going up and down easy. Or you can do the other suggested thing and put a new seal kit, and floor flange seal in the toilet and see it that works. You also might check to make sure the toilet is level, and not distorted to is flange seal since this also might affect its operation.
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:54 AM   #82
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Monty,

In one of my conversations with HWH the tech suggested the best thing to do was wipe the exposed portion of the jack clean or use their hydraulic oil to coat it. Either way cycle the jacks several times. The exposed (to the elements) portion is covered with hydraulic oil when the jack is retracted so by placing some on the outside the seals are coated on both sides with the same thing. My take away was that by using something other than their hydraulic oil the process could contaminate (however minutely) the hydraulic oil.

While I am by no stretch of the imagination an engineer , the above seemed to make sense so I have been wiping the exposed portion once or twice a year (we only weekend, staying in one place 3 - 5 days with the coach so the jacks stay up most of the time), cycling the jacks twice after wiping them and NOT adding any hydraulic oil (that seemed to me to be a magnet for contamination dirt, dust, rocks, etc). Thus far it has worked .
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:21 PM   #83
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I use a product called Lubrisil manufactured by Zep. It is a food grade silicone that will not harm rubber. I use it on my jacks and the toilet seal. Strange combination of uses but it works. Maybe it will work on my knees.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:23 AM   #84
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I just replaced our toilet seal, actually two seals, on thick one very thin (Teflon I think), would take about 1/2 hour but I fastidiously cleaned everything I could reach. Cost from CW was about $44. Patty says it works better than when we bought it in '04. I don't think I'm that good!! Very easy job.

Ours was not holding any water. Chuck C. Told me to try scrubbing the seal, but it did not work. Sealand does make a tool to scrub the seal, might work.

TP, I like the square plastic fence posts. I think I will copy that.
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